Topic: engine bay 64 1/2 D-Code

[Bossbill]

Interesting that the more standard D code does get the shield but A/C and HiPo does not.
Does anyone know the reason behind that?

I wrestled with a 64.5 D code with shield the other day trying to get to the number 1 plug.
Finally just removed a few bolts, put a towel down and rested the generator on the towel.
Found: The number one plug. And possibly the reason they were thrown out.

[Chris]

I thought the master cylinder cap could be black or natural copper according to MCA rules? Good job having the correct cap, most do not.

For the generator stamp, for dual groove a/c pulley generators, it should read C4OF-10000-B, picture attached.

I can’t tell from the picture if the idler pulley and mount are correct. It should be the unique generator mounted bracket and pulley for a/c cars, see attached pic.

The oil dip stick on the timing chain cover looks to be the incorrect type/finish.

I don’t see the rubber strap supporting the water heater hoses off the brace on the passenger side engine bay.

Overall, you have a nicely set up engine.

Chris

[Chris]

If he's not, I am.  Along with how the rubber-like thingy attaches to it.  I've got the rubber boot on the rear of it, that was easy.

There is a restored one on ebay now for sale, cheap too, $124. Item number 163683190920.

For these things, you have to search under Fairlane and Falcon to get hard to find generaor related parts. This part typically goes for $300-$400 if complete and restored.

Found a second one too, unrestored for $189, item number 192780514233.

[J_Speegle]

Did notice (in the pictures Chris posted) that you made another non-factory choice. Not returning the sealant to the firewall in all the expected and typical locations. Way too noticeable that is missing it. 

[Chris]

Jeff, if you meant that for my engine bay pictures, I’ve not applied any sealant yet as I will be repainting the engine bay at some point. When I last did it about 10 years ago, the primer did not take well, probably due to residual oil residue. Same reason why I’ve not applied any stamps or decals yet.

At least I think it was a primer issue. The engine bay paint came off on the backside of my NOS 64 1/2 washer bag (ugh). Not sure if this was a paint adhesion issue. I had used the black Krylon engine bay spray paint from NPD. Pics attached.

Chris

[CharlesTurner]

I don’t see the rubber strap supporting the water heater hoses off the brace on the passenger side engine bay.

That was normally only for K codes and 6 cylinders.

[Bossbill]

Regarding this pic:


On the later inks the surround is a rectangle. Here they are an "L".

When did that change occur?

[Chris]

Thanks for the correction on the water heater hose hangers Charles. Thought this was called out in one of the 64-65 assembly manuals, I’ll double check.

[J_Speegle]

On the later inks the surround is a rectangle. Here they are an "L".

When did that change occur?

Believe changed when they went to alternators though in the rebuild and service replacement a similar (just corners) continued for a fair amount of time - with out dates on many of the examples

Thanks for the correction on the water heater hose hangers Charles. Thought this was called out in one of the 64-65 assembly manuals, I’ll double check.

If so you might want to start a separate discussion rather than take over this one

[Hawkeye]

There is a restored one on ebay now for sale, cheap too, $124. Item number 163683190920.

For these things, you have to search under Fairlane and Falcon to get hard to find generaor related parts. This part typically goes for $300-$400 if complete and restored.

Found a second one too, unrestored for $189, item number 192780514233.

Just got one from someone on another site selling a bunch of early parts.  Must be that 'things come in 3s' thing going on.

[michaelvonlanthen]

update 2020:
- rebuild radiator 2 row (functions better than previous repro 3 row)
- new sticker on air cleaner lid
- new voltage regulator with correct imprints and colors
- NOS starter solenoid brown

next steps:
- install rebuild NOS water pump C4OE-8505-A with HIPO impeller from deadnutson
- install original 13/16" sway bar
- install origininal rebuild 16:1 fast steering box

Hope those updates will improve driving around Swiss Alps next year

[Bob Gaines]

update 2020:
- rebuild radiator 2 row (functions better than previous repro 3 row)
- new sticker on air cleaner lid
- new voltage regulator with correct imprints and colors
- NOS starter solenoid brown

next steps:
- install rebuild NOS water pump C4OE-8505-A with HIPO impeller from deadnutson
- install original 13/16" sway bar
- install origininal rebuild 16:1 fast steering box

Hope those updates will improve driving around Swiss Alps next year

As long as your Idler arm (typically the weakest link) ,inner and outer tie rods are tight . The rebuilt steering box should make a noticeable improvement.The steering box is often overlooked but after 50 plus years they all need to be opened up and refreshed.