Topic: 1967 Interior Decor Option Dash inserts

[Alaric]

Does anyone know the precise finish that the aluminum inserts are supposed to receive?  It looks like it's almost certainly a No4 finish,  but I'd like to know if there is guidance available on exactly what mechanical grit to stop polishing with.

Previous owner of my panel *obviously* tried to "restore" it but didn't do a good job at all. Some areas are a No3 and some spots were taken all the way to what looks like a No6 polish.

I'm going to have to refinish it and any guidance will be greatly appreciated.

[67gtasanjose]

Welcome to the site.

Do you have any side by side images or samples to assist in what you are basing the numbering from? 4 seems to be what is called the most popular usage but in a quick search, I didn't find any side by side images to use as reference.

[Alaric]

Don't have any photos but here's a quick reference to a list of machine finishes.

http://www.ssina.com/finishes/sheetsamples.html

[67gtasanjose]

Don't have any photos but here's a quick reference to a list of machine finishes.

http://www.ssina.com/finishes/sheetsamples.html

Using the examples at the site location you specified, I would agree that the number four would be the correct choice
My understanding is the easier route would be to simply buy replacement inserts from Burton which is a tried and proven result.

[Bob Gaines]

Does anyone know the precise finish that the aluminum inserts are supposed to receive?  It looks like it's almost certainly a No4 finish,  but I'd like to know if there is guidance available on exactly what mechanical grit to stop polishing with.

Previous owner of my panel *obviously* tried to "restore" it but didn't do a good job at all. Some areas are a No3 and some spots were taken all the way to what looks like a No6 polish.

I'm going to have to refinish it and any guidance will be greatly appreciated.

This subject comes up frequently. I am not sure what your expectations are . If they are such that you are expecting something very near to the original or what would be considered a concours finish then I believe you are going to be disappointed in refinishing them your self or even sending them off to have someone do them. I have not seen some done yet that I consider good enough for a show car. The originals were machine finished and then Brite Dip anodized. It will be hard to get that consistent pattern ,grit ,and top finish when redoing your originals.Another thing is to get all DIY pieces to match each other in consistent finish.  The door panel inserts are the hardest to DIY and make them look like anything reasonable.  All this is next to impossible to do like factory in a shop setting. If you will be satisfied with a less then show finish then you can try to refinish them yourself . Besides the savings in time the ones that Burton Antique Auto parts http://www.burtonantiqueautoparts.com/  makes are some of the better ones that I have seen when compared to NOS parts.They are heads and shoulders better then any I have seen that have been DIY restored or sent out to anyone that redoes them.  The Burton ones are not appliques that stick on your original panels or the plastic chrome trim but made on panels with tabs to fit in the factory chrome plastic trim slots like the original . They even make the door panel inserts with the aluminum tabs like original. The final finish is a clear coat and not a anodized finish but it still looks like the next best thing to the original IMO. I don't know if that is the brand that NPD sells or not but you can buy direct. Just a suggestion to save time ,money and frustration if your are wanting some that looks as close as you can get to the extinct NOS originals .

[ruppstang]

This subject comes up frequently. I am not sure what your expectations are . If they are such that you are expecting something very near to the original or what would be considered a concours finish then I believe you are going to be disappointed in refinishing them your self or even sending them off to have someone do them. I have not seen some done yet that I consider good enough for a show car. The originals were machine finished and then Brite Dip anodized. It will be hard to get that consistent pattern ,grit ,and top finish when redoing your originals.Another thing is to get all DIY pieces to match each other in consistent finish.  The door panel inserts are the hardest to DIY and make them look like anything reasonable.  All this is next to impossible to do like factory in a shop setting. If you will be satisfied with a less then show finish then you can try to refinish them yourself . Besides the savings in time the ones that Burton Antique Auto parts http://www.burtonantiqueautoparts.com/  makes are some of the better ones that I have seen when compared to NOS parts.They are heads and shoulders better then any I have seen that have been DIY restored or sent out to anyone that redoes them.  The Burton ones are not appliques that stick on your original panels or the plastic chrome trim but made on panels with tabs to fit in the factory chrome plastic trim slots like the original . They even make the door panel inserts with the aluminum tabs like original. The final finish is a clear coat and not a anodized finish but it still looks like the next best thing to the original IMO. I don't know if that is the brand that NPD sells or not but you can buy direct. Just a suggestion to save time ,money and frustration if your are wanting some that looks as close as you can get to the extinct NOS originals .

+ 1
Here is a picture of our 67 GTA with the Burton inserts. I was very pleased with them.

[Alaric]

The originals were machine finished and then Brite Dip anodized. It will be hard to get that consistent pattern ,grit ,and top finish when redoing your originals.Another thing is to get all DIY pieces to match each other in consistent finish.  The door panel inserts are the hardest to DIY and make them look like anything reasonable.

They're Bright Dipped? I'm interested in learning more.  Is there any documentation or further information I can look into for the anodizing process that was used? My best understanding was that the originals were chrome plated brushed pot metal. Is the information from J.C. Oliphant misguided?(incomplete?)

Wouldn't bright dip anodizing them have made them *more* durable instead of *less* durable to the elements?

The Burton ones are not appliques that stick on your original panels or the plastic chrome trim but made on panels with tabs to fit in the factory chrome plastic trim slots like the original . They even make the door panel inserts with the aluminum tabs like original. The final finish is a clear coat and not a anodized finish but it still looks like the next best thing to the original IMO. I don't know if that is the brand that NPD sells or not but you can buy direct.

Yeah. Replacements are always an option. Right now I'm trying to get a detailed understanding of what it will take to restore my parts to original condition so I can make my best decision.

Just a suggestion to save time ,money and frustration if your are wanting some that looks as close as you can get to the extinct NOS originals .

Those suggestions are always welcome. I've used this site for reference for quite some time but this is the first time I've had what I thought was a good question to ask (I'll have more)

[67gtasanjose]

... My best understanding was that the originals were chrome plated brushed pot metal. Is the information from J.C. Oliphant misguided?(incomplete?)

JC has a good write up on his blog but that information is soley for the console pieces (Console base, shifter opening and radio plate areas of the console).

The dash pieces are a mixed lot too. The Instrument bezel and the panel above the glove box is a brushed aluminum trim, each affixed to metal plate with bend-over tabs. The area that joins the two (or AC vent area) has a brushed insert glued in as does the other two ends by the doors. The doors themselves are a formed aluminum insert with a brushed inside area. The roof console is like the door inserts (formed aluminum panel with brushed finish). That seems to be the best I could do to describe them.

As JC oliphant mentions, perhaps you can follow his suggestions if and only if a chrome plater will work with you.
Since you brought him up, you could also provide a link to his blog. It may help somebody else reading along.

As for the door pieces and the dash pieces, as mentioned already, I doubt you will be capable of duplicating the results that can equal or exceed the quality and appearance of Burton's product. For a few hundred dollars, it seems the best way to go.

[Bob Gaines]

They're Bright Dipped? I'm interested in learning more.  Is there any documentation or further information I can look into for the anodizing process that was used? My best understanding was that the originals were chrome plated brushed pot metal. Is the information from J.C. Oliphant misguided?(incomplete?)

Wouldn't bright dip anodizing them have made them *more* durable instead of *less* durable to the elements?
Yeah. Replacements are always an option. Right now I'm trying to get a detailed understanding of what it will take to restore my parts to original condition so I can make my best decision.Those suggestions are always welcome. I've used this site for reference for quite some time but this is the first time I've had what I thought was a good question to ask (I'll have more)

Brite dip anodizing is commonly done to aluminum trim in the automotive industry to make it more corrosion resistant without dulling . Regular anodizing will give a duller look. Not too many platers offer the Brite Dip process. You will have to look in places like hemmings motor news to find some to company's to research. Many platers will say it is the same process . Stay away from those. Typically you have to provide the item in a ready to plate condition. In the case of the deluxe interior dash panel trim that means you have to strip the old anodizing off and then re brush . As previously mentioned that is hard to to as good as original on all of the panels.  Anyone who claims that the originals were chrome plated brushed pot metal does not have a understanding of the process, did not evolve their research or otherwise is to stubborn to concede that they are incorrect. Since you don't know me you must be skeptical of my expertise which is understandable. If you did trust me you would save yourself a lot of time ,money and stress. I am just trying to help others side step all of that discovery so that they don't have the trials I did unnecessarily. After over 40 years of doing this my perception has evolved on this matter. The redone panels are not adequate now for high scoring cars in concours judging. Also there has been no reason for me to stay current on pricing for the people who redo the panels which are very labor intensive. I suspect the cost ether is comparable or exceeds the cost of the better Burton panels I mentioned. You mentioned Joe Oliphant which is one of the better people that redoes the panels.I bought from him 20 years ago or more on a number of occasions for projects. He was the only alternative other then NOS. NOS 67 deluxe panels that all matched across the dash was hard to find 20-25 years ago when it was more prevalent. It is exponentially harder now. Fortunately there are some aftermarket replacement alternatives now that we never had previously that are better then any of the refinishing process's IMO with my concours judges hat on. " I'm trying to get a detailed understanding of what it will take to restore my parts to original condition so I can make my best decision. " In the end if you do your research you are going to find that best case scenerio refinishing will cost substantially more money including time and research. That is of course if you can refinish the brush pattern like factory and brite dip anodize like original. In the worst case you will also spend all of the money and time plus have a look inferior to original new. Best of luck getting to a point that meets your expectations.