Topic: Small Block Water Neck/Connection Assy Cylinder Head Water Outlet

[jwc66k]

Those parts may be of the type where the thermostat mounting has an indent in the intake manifold and not on the Water Neck/Thermostat (and every other colloquial name in the book) thingie.

In Bob Mannel's book production 221/260/289 intakes were machined with counter bored pockets for thermostat flanges to fit into before about March 1, 1965. Parts marked C2OE, C3OE, and C4OE in his book are for use with intakes counter bored for thermostats. His book indicates that the C5OE marked part adopted the counter bored feature and now care must be taken to use housings and intakes in proper combination.

I sort of said that without thumbing thru the Mannel book for specifics. In other words - look at the manifold and the housing before you install (unless you keep the Mannel book on the workbench).

Racing wise some of the Ford race intakes could have obtained with or without the counter bored pocket even in 1967. My examples are the Group II 2-4V intakes for the Shelby Mustang racers for the 1967 season. Intake serial number 4 used in the Shelby-Titus car part of the season has a machined pocket so a C2OE, C3OE, or C4OE housing is required. The intake installed on one of the last Shelby racers had no pocket so a C5OE part was required.

"Concourse" racing - I assume.
Jim

[Morsel]

Hi all, and sorry to keep beating a dead horse here, but here are two examples I have on hand, the one on the left is what I'm more used to seeing as far as all marks from casting and such, the one on the right is another C5OE I found and just can't find any info on it. Here are the differences I'm seeing:

1) Casting mold version 4 the one on the left, Casting mold version 5 on the one on the right.

2) Casting number C5OE8592 with the A1 below the 2 on the one on the left, and casting part number all in one line except the "1" which is below the A.

3) One on left has no date code, the one on the right has a 66 date code which you can clearly make out in person.

4) Casting lines much more defined and hard on the one on the left, smoother and tighter on the right one.

5) The raised circle on the top is higher on the one on the left and the one on the right is almost flat, but there.

So now comes the question, can I use the one on the right or is that too new for my Feb 66 car? Or what even is this one, I haven't seen any pictures or reference images close to this one on the right, and there's nothing in Bob Mannels book that references different casting molds. The reason is it looks so much nicer than the one I have on the left, which I could make look better per Bob's suggestion of using JB Weld to smooth out before painting.

Anyway thoughts? And thanks as always.

Jason

[jwc66k]

Flip a coin.
Jim

[Morsel]

Flip a coin.
Jim

Haha, funny Jim

I guess that means I could use either and I'd be fine. Just thought the one painted blue was interesting because I never have seen one like it, at least this number 5 casting.

Thanks again,

Jason

[outlawincorporated]

JASON.

use whichever example has less corrosion would be my only comment.
most of the detailed orientated parts on these ORIGINAL thermostat covers are covered up when on the engine and all components attached

regards

PHILL BERESFORD
MELBOURNE.
AUSTRALIA.