Topic: Cleaning for Rechroming a 1968 OEM Oil Filler Cap?

[Al Bundy]

Before I send out an original to be rechromed, what's the best way to thoroughly clean the inside of the cap to remove rust and debris that are present.  It doesn't look to me like there is any way to readily remove the innards and replace them.  This is of course assuming I can get the elbow and grommet out without denting it like I did the first one.   

[J_Speegle]

Have you talked to or found a plater that will do this?  Been my experience that platters will typically refuse rather than run the risk of contaminating a whole tank due to just the possibility of oils leaching out of the old cap.  With this said - be aware that once replated  For others with different style there is the consideration that the base section would then be chromed unlike originally done and or if the cap is the type with a rivet head exposed it to would be plated also.

With that all said. I don't know if any engine shops out there locally still have tanks where the cap could be soaked in heated cleaner for an extended period as we could do in years past. The spray booths that are more environmentally friendly won't get inside. I would try a gallon of carb cleaner, pour the liquid into a smaller container so you have enough liquid to change out the cleaner a number of times as needed, with maybe a aquarium tank bubblier or something else to move the liquid around. Then after a few days rinse it out, stick it in a bucket or container of water and look for evidence of residual oil and redo the process again if needed.

Just a guess on my part - but trying to help. Others may have been successful and can offer what worked for them.

[Al Bundy]

I did send a plater pictures for a quote, I assume they knew what they were looking at since they are all engine parts.  Whatever system they use to clean parts for prep may be sufficient, I don’t really know.  As far as surfaces that shouldn’t be chrome, I would think they wouldn’t be plated similar to the back side of a bumper.  Though that might be wishful thinking.

[Bob Gaines]

I did send a plater pictures for a quote, I assume they knew what they were looking at since they are all engine parts.  Whatever system they use to clean parts for prep may be sufficient, I don’t really know.  As far as surfaces that shouldn’t be chrome, I would think they wouldn’t be plated similar to the back side of a bumper.  Though that might be wishful thinking.

Typically a plater will not replate a cap that still has the insides intact for the reasons Jeff explained . It has been my experience that many times they burn out the material inside. The caps that I have seen over the years rechromed come back completely chromed top and bottom included valve cover cross bar (for twist on) . The inside is empty and you have to stuff some kind of nylon or steel fibers inside so that it perfoms the way it did originally .  Typically originally just the top half of the breather cap is chromed and the bottom side is plated something different before being crimped together originally by the MFG. With that said the bottom side is not seen once installed . You have to also be carefull who does the work and that they understand your expectations. Many chromers in trying to produce the shiniest finish will round off edges or corners which a informed eye can plainly see. Also on some caps defects like slight spot weld depressions can be erased which although nicer looking is a easy visual que to determine if repro or genuine.  I wanted to point out that a rechromed cap may look nice from the top side but will not be the equivalent of a nice NOS cap by comparison. Comments are meant to inform you so that you have realistic expectations and not to discourage you from having it done.

[Al Bundy]

Typically a plater will not replate a cap that still has the insides intact for the reasons Jeff explained . It has been my experience that many times they burn out the material inside. The caps that I have seen over the years rechromed come back completely chromed top and bottom included valve cover cross bar (for twist on) . The inside is empty and you have to stuff some kind of nylon or steel fibers inside so that it perfoms the way it did originally .  Typically originally just the top half of the breather cap is chromed and the bottom side is plated something different before being crimped together originally by the MFG. With that said the bottom side is not seen once installed . You have to also be carefull who does the work and that they understand your expectations. Many chromers in trying to produce the shiniest finish will round off edges or corners which a informed eye can plainly see. Also on some caps defects like slight spot weld depressions can be erased which although nicer looking is a easy visual que to determine if repro or genuine.  I wanted to point out that a rechromed cap may look nice from the top side but will not be the equivalent of a nice NOS cap by comparison. Comments are meant to inform you so that you have realistic expectations and not to discourage you from having it done.

I appreciate your comments, I am here to become better informed.  I don’t have very much experience with this kind of thing, you and many people on this site obviously do.  My first choice for this part would be NOS, but it’s not something I’ve seen while looking for parts for the last couple years.  I see many others, but no 1968 chrome breather type.  I’m not really searching for perfection, so even a really nice used one would work.  But I haven’t seen any of those either.  I actually bought a reproduction to use, but I want OEM parts for this build unless there simply is no other choice.  So having located a couple examples and having other parts that need chrome, it seemed like a good option to include the cap.  But I was concerned with it being clean both from debris and from contaminates after the plating process.  I don’t want bits of chrome finding their way into my fresh build.

[preaction]

 Does dead nuts on still restore these parts ?

[Al Bundy]

Does dead nuts on still restore these parts ?

Didn’t see any mention on their site.

[HDAshmore]

Al,

Have you thought of an ultrasonic cleaner with a little grease lightning or simple green.  An untrasonic cleaner is pretty cheap from Harbor freight or ebay and you can use it on many things with cavities and crevices that are hard to reach. Just a thought.

Dan

[jwc66k]

I prefer to drop an oily, greasy part, like an oil filler cap, into a can of old carb cleaner and letting it "soak" for a week. If your timing is good, you can remove the carb cleaner solvent and most of the crud by rinsing it out in warm, soapy cloths washer water as it's being pumped out of the washer (a deep sink is the preferred location to do this). The actual filter material is usually a form of steel wool which does get cleaner, but not much. Further cleaning steps are solvent based - acetone, kerosene, paint thinner - just to verify the filter material is usable. I have had to toss a few of the oil filler caps because they didn't cooperate in the cleaning process. One cleaner that does not get mentioned is TSP, Tri-Sodium phosphate. I've used TSP mixed with water and the green pyramids in a vibrator cleaner. The pyramids do get stuck in tight corners though. 

Have you thought of an ultrasonic cleaner with a little grease lightning or simple green.  An untrasonic cleaner is pretty cheap from Harbor freight or ebay and you can use it on many things with cavities and crevices that are hard to reach.

I haven't had that much good results with this type of cleaner. I've used mine on clips and other small parts but was not happy.
Jim

[Bob Gaines]

At the end of the day it will be interesting to see if the plating company will risk/gamble contaminating their tanks with a used breather cap regardless of what cleaning technique one tries before submitting cap to chrome plater.

[Al Bundy]

So I had my machinist put this in the cooker along with a couple other parts.  There’s nothing left on the inside including the filler material.  I guess I’ll be looking for something to replace it when it comes back from plating.

[Bob Gaines]

So I had my machinist put this in the cooker along with a couple other parts.  There’s nothing left on the inside including the filler material.  I guess I’ll be looking for something to replace it when it comes back from plating.

Find a stainless steel filter material that has a larger mesh pattern. A smaller wool like material similar to steel wool pad ,brillo pad etc. will work but being so thin it has a tendency to break and crumble over time that makes me uncomfortable even in the small amounts that it might happen.  You want to be able to carefully stuff past the cross bar on the bottom side of a twist on cap. Original push on caps are a little easier. FYI If you expect to fill it up like original then you are too optimistic IMO. A reasonable expectation maybe half as full.

[Bob Gaines]

The last picture is of material that I found that I rolled and stuffed into the longer neck of a small diameter push on cap. It was something I robbed from a dead range vent filter.

[Al Bundy]

The last picture is of material that I found that I rolled and stuffed into the longer neck of a small diameter push on cap. It was something I robbed from a dead range vent filter.

Thanks for the tip.