Topic: Firewall pad repair

[Bossbill]

I've been working off and on on my pad between other things. I've never seen anyone post the back side of the fix, so I thought I'd remedy that now.

To do an area as large as in the pic, you need to remove the jute backing and use a small wire brush (toothbrush size) to really remove the jute in the areas to be fixed.

To put together sections of the outer skin I use black super weather strip. I hold the sections together using either blue tape or gaffers tape. This allows me to line up the front and then flip over the pad to reinforce and fill the back. Using a bean bag works to hold the sections in their proper hi/lo orientation.

I tried the Right Stuff and don't care for it. It does not spread well and is too inflexible when it dries. A sample is at the top left of this pic.

I also tried regular Automotive Goop and found it unsatisfactory. It took too long to dry (if I remember right).

The spray on rubber coatings took forever to dry and required many, many coats. The less shiny areas in the pic are using the rubber aerosols. There are at least half a dozen coats on those samples.

So then I tried Shoe Goo and this stuff is great. It dries very quickly, self levels as it dries, can be re-coated a few times per day and works great with the fiberglass mesh used for drywall repairs. See the shiny areas in the pic. That's just one coat of Goo, compared to over half a dozen of the spray rubber.

Attached is the very damaged area behind the floor wiper/squirters on my 67. I'll show the front when I'm done with it.

[J_Speegle]

Separated out a number of posts to another thread in hopes to focus just on repairs, attempts, failures and products tried by members

[67gtasanjose]

I tried the Right Stuff and don't care for it. It does not spread well and is too inflexible when it dries. A sample is at the top left of this pic.

The use of "The Right Stuff" was used as a surface-filler, not as an adhesive for repairing the rips or tears. The "Right Stuff" was used AFTER all of the tears were completed and AFTER the outer skin was adhered to the NEW jute backing.
I used fiberglass mesh, as you did for repairing the rips and tears, but I used a Permatex Vinyl Adhesive (#81786 clear) for the adhesive. It was messy and a little stiff when dried but worked fast enough to do one rip or tear at a time.

[Bossbill]

... . The "Right Stuff" was used AFTER all of the tears were completed and AFTER the outer skin was adhered to the NEW jute backing.

Ah, gotcha.

I'm leaving all of the jute on, where I can, and using an industrial strength deodorizer with enzyme to remove any smells.

This is really tedious so I try to do small stints of it instead of watching paint dry. I prefer the later.

[67gtasanjose]

...I've never seen anyone post the back side of the fix, so I thought I'd remedy that now.

To do an area as large as in the pic, you need to remove the jute backing and use a small wire brush (toothbrush size) to really remove the jute in the areas to be fixed.

To put together sections of the outer skin I use black super weather strip. I hold the sections together using either blue tape or gaffers tape. This allows me to line up the front and then flip over the pad to reinforce and fill the back. Using a bean bag works to hold the sections in their proper hi/lo orientation.

I tried the Right Stuff and don't care for it. It does not spread well and is too inflexible when it dries. A sample is at the top left of this pic.

I also tried regular Automotive Goop and found it unsatisfactory. It took too long to dry (if I remember right).

The spray on rubber coatings took forever to dry and required many, many coats. The less shiny areas in the pic are using the rubber aerosols. There are at least half a dozen coats on those samples.

So then I tried Shoe Goo and this stuff is great. It dries very quickly, self levels as it dries, can be re-coated a few times per day and works great with the fiberglass mesh used for drywall repairs. See the shiny areas in the pic. That's just one coat of Goo, compared to over half a dozen of the spray rubber.

Attached is the very damaged area behind the floor wiper/squirters on my 67. I'll show the front when I'm done with it.

These sorts of issues have already been addressed in this thread (see images, they are re-posted again here)> I imagine there are OTHER sorts of adhesives that can IMPROVE results and time spent to achieve satisfactory results. For example, If I were to do this again, I would have purchased a "better" reproduction pad to crop the Jute from, one that is pre-formed to the shape of the firewall since this was a real hassle to stretch the "flat" version that I used. You may notice a little deformed shape behind the heater/AC unit in my final results. (My AC unit will hide this very well so I am satisfied anyways).

[Bossbill]

Ok, I finally got on board with using the Right Stuff the right way on the front and agree that it works really well in that location. Even the color is spot on.

I also found that using a dremel with a small pinpoint wire brush removes irregularities and goop that has made its way to front before the Right Stuff application.

My pad is bad enough in areas that I'm on Shoe Goop tube #2.

Getting there. Thanks Richard.

[bullitt68]

Has anyone tried Flex Seal liquid rubber

[J_Speegle]

Has anyone tried Flex Seal liquid rubber

Not I - wonder how different it is from spray Tool Dip Might have to add some surface texture to it in the final coat

[Bob Gaines]

Not I - wonder how different it is from spray Tool Dip Might have to add some surface texture to it in the final coat

It sprays out the same as the tool dip spray can. Yes you have to apply it over the texture you want because it has none. Just a new name and more hype. IMO.

[bullitt68]

It sprays out the same as the tool dip spray can. Yes you have to apply it over the texture you want because it has none. Just a new name and more hype. IMO.

Would be great if there was a way to add the waffle pattern if you could lay down a non stick texture mold that could be removed after the rubber is dry with no adhesion. I wonder if something like pam or another product would allow that. Perhaps a large stamp that could be applied in the final drying stages

[Bossbill]

My secret formula for mold release is 4 parts isopropal alcohol (min 91%) and 1 part caster oil.
The alcohol only makes the caster oil thinner and easily spreadable/sprayable.
Caster oil is fairly benign and comes off with 100% alcohol.

The best way to make the mold is to first hack a complete firewall out of a parts car to get all of hills and valleys right.
I have the parts car, but the desire anymore is weak.

[bullitt68]

My secret formula for mold release is 4 parts isopropal alcohol (min 91%) and 1 part caster oil.
The alcohol only makes the caster oil thinner and easily spreadable/sprayable.
Caster oil is fairly benign and comes off with 100% alcohol.

The best way to make the mold is to first hack a complete firewall out of a parts car to get all of hills and valleys right.
I have the parts car, but the desire anymore is weak.

Wow! I never imagined when I got into this that the firewall pad would be such an issue, otherwise I would have tried to save mine. Such are the unfortunate novice mistakes we make when we don't know better and don't ask the questions before the fact

[Bossbill]

When I disassembled the Shelby -- years ago  -- I threw out my insulation pad. Mice also got into my dash pad so instead of fixing that issue, I threw it and a spare away.

I bought a parts car last year just to get those two parts.
My other option was to buy a driver or better car, take out the original pieces and replace them with repops, afterwards selling that car.

[bullitt68]

When I disassembled the Shelby -- years ago  -- I threw out my insulation pad. Mice also got into my dash pad so instead of fixing that issue, I threw it and a spare away.

I bought a parts car last year just to get those two parts.
My other option was to buy a driver or better car, take out the original pieces and replace them with repops, afterwards selling that car.

Haha yes my car was a mouse hotel as well when it sat in a barn for all those years. When I stripped the dash out there were mouse dropping everywhere. I wonder what is the chance of actually finding a used firewall pad in good shape or would I have better luck just buying a lottery ticket and then buying a perfect car lol

[Bossbill]

With the help of everyone here, especially Richard, I have finally finished my pad.
This thing was done in small spurts as I passed by it, glued up another small section, went on to other less disgusting stuff while each small section dried.
Lots of patience is required.

Time to store it and move onto other fun things.