Topic: How to create a 66 hood

[MHz]

I noticed Scott Drake has a reproduction hood scope available now and that got me to wondering how to go about making a hood for 6S1158. It currently has a Maier Racing (?) fibreglass hood that I installed in the early '80s.

Reading another thread from Oct. 2015 I now realize Shelby steel hoods were Mustang hoods with a scoop attached. I always thought the entire top panel was stamped that way.

So, I'll need an original late January dated Mustang hood and the Scott Drake scoop to start. Are all 66 Mustang hoods the same, or there variations? Should my car get a round hole cut into it or the big oval? How was the embossed ledge created that the scoop drops into? How was the welding done? Should the underside of the finished hood be semi-gloss black or Saffire Blue? Other thoughts?

Many thanks, Ross

[J_Speegle]

So you have a 66 Sapphire blue Hertz Shelby? That's cool. Our 66 was likely built around the same time as 6S1158

Should the underside of the finished hood be semi-gloss black or Saffire Blue?

Both styles of hood were painted a flat semi-gloss black then the top and edges painted body color producing overspray along the edges and scoop opening. Same thing took place with the stripe application to a much less degree

I noticed Scott Drake has a reproduction hood scope available now and that got me to wondering how to go about making a hood for 6S1158. ...............

So, I'll need an original late January dated Mustang hood and the Scott Drake scoop to start. Are all 66 Mustang hoods the same, or there variations? Should my car get a round hole cut into it or the big oval? How was the embossed ledge created that the scoop drops into? How was the welding done?

There are a couple of different styles/version of the Mustang hood frame so you will need the appropriate version with an acceptable date code and pattern.

I've seen three versions of the top panel.

- Oval cut out with a sunken scoop relief
- Scoop shaped cut out with the sunken scoop relief
- Scoop shaped cut out with no scoop relief. Attachment of the scoop to hood panel appears to differ from the two other versions



 

Other thoughts?

Yes why are you focusing on the car having an all steel hood? Do you have some documentation that the car came that way originally? IF not not sure I would go through the hassle just to be different. But that is me.

BTW welcome to the site.

[MHz]

Thanks Jeff,

I was under the impression that once Shelby got past the Pidgeon hood problems, all cars got full steel hoods.

ross

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks Jeff,

I was under the impression that once Shelby got past the Pidgeon hood problems, all cars got full steel hoods.

ross

SA got past the problem by not using the hoods anymore.

[J_Speegle]

I was under the impression that once Shelby got past the Pidgeon hood problems, all cars got full steel hoods.

Nope. They gave up and just used what had worked and sold the rest of the hoods to body shops in the local area.

Tons of cars built after yours with fiberglass with steel framed hoods - even up into 67 production (different hoods - same design)

Hopefully we saved you from the hassle on this detail.

[MHz]

38 years I've owned this car and I'm still learning.

As I mentioned before, the car currently has a Maier Racing full fiberglass hood from the early '80s. It's nice but has curved from having the hood open at car shows. I guess the easiest thing to do (and the most correct?) is to have my top fiberglass panel attached to an OEM steel bottom.

What do I need to know to do that, re: method, quality, correct steel bottom, etc.?

Thanks again for all your advice,
Ross

[MHz]

Did Hertz rent GT350Hs without a hood latch? My car has only hood pins to secure the hood.

Ross

[J_Speegle]

Did Hertz rent GT350Hs without a hood latch? My car has only hood pins to secure the hood.

Your car 6S1158 would have had a hood latch and supporting brackets like a Mustang. Your Hertz would have been built (focusing on  this specific item) just like non-Hertz of the period. Getting rid of the Mustang hood latch was a fairly popular modification though it did result in a few ruined hoods when the owner forgot to install the hood clips 

[Bob Gaines]

38 years I've owned this car and I'm still learning.

As I mentioned before, the car currently has a Maier Racing full fiberglass hood from the early '80s. It's nice but has curved from having the hood open at car shows. I guess the easiest thing to do (and the most correct?) is to have my top fiberglass panel attached to an OEM steel bottom.

What do I need to know to do that, re: method, quality, correct steel bottom, etc.?

Thanks again for all your advice,
Ross

The easiest thing would be to first get one of the good reproduction hoods from Shelby Parts and Restorations or in second place in order of difficulty spring for a original . If you frown on that suggestion a Maier hood is most likely not the best foundation to start from if constructing your own. I am skeptical that the texture of the fiberglass on the bottom side of the Maier hood will match what was originally used. That plus the fit of the Maier fiberglass is typically second class compared to other alternatives available today. The bonding technique ,fit, learning curve in general etc. makes it a complicated job to construct your own hood to historical look and standards. FYI I think Shelby parts will build a hood to order if you supply the proper date coded innerstructure etc. 

[Texas Swede]

When my Swedish friend Roland started the restoration of 6S923, which came with an original all metal hood, it was determined by the sheet metal guy that the hood was warped beyond repair and another hood was used. I am attaching some pictures. You can see the original is
painted in red primer while the replacement is green. The scoop was carefully removed and put onto the replacement hood. The opening in the original was circular so it was done the same way on the replacement. However, one thing that wasn't noticed was a difference in the structure between the two hoods. This was being discussed in an earlier SAAC Forum post. Believe it was Bob Gaines who pointed it out.

Texas Swede

[Texas Swede]

More pictures, Believe the last one is from another car pointing out the difference in structure.
Texas Swede