Topic: Wire Harness Restoration

[1970 Snake]

Has anyone found a good way to remove undercoating and/or sound deadener sprayed on the wire harness connection plugs, bulb sockets and wiring, with out damaging the harness components?

[HDAshmore]

+1.  I would really love to see a good article or an idiots guide to restoring wiring harness.  I need to do two cars worth and I know I am going to screw it up without adult supervision and expert advice.  Anyone?

Thanks,
Dan 

[midlife]

Been addressing this problem now for 10 years, and haven't found a good solution.  If it is a light coat, lacquer thinner and lots of elbow grease will work.
The one thing I haven't tried yet is gasoline; it did work well on body underside undercoating.

[Bossbill]

I use lacquer thinner on the heavy stuff and then move to isopropyl alcohol.
I also use GoJo as it is fairly mild and removes dirt.

There is nothing easy here. You have to test if the thinner will remove the tracer color.
If you get too heavy handed with any of the methods friction will remove the tracer color.

Soaking the plugs with lacquer thinner works well. Don't let the thinner get higher than the wires. Do note that after a long period of time the plugs will get stained and take on the color of the undercoating. Then paint is your only remedy.

To get between wires at the plugs I use a Q tip.

I've heard others have success with Ultrasonic cleaners on the plug side.

[jwc66k]

Do not use "Goof-Off". It is strong enough to remove the stripes on wires in about a minute.
Jim

[Bob Gaines]

Been addressing this problem now for 10 years, and haven't found a good solution.  If it is a light coat, lacquer thinner and lots of elbow grease will work.
The one thing I haven't tried yet is gasoline; it did work well on body underside undercoating.

I have always used kerosene but not gasoline so I can't say if it works better or not. It makes me feel a little safety conscious to use gasoline. Kerosene makes me feel a little more confident but have to stay vigilant to safety measures (good ventilation ,no open flames etc.) while using. It still is not a miracle solvent for the undercoating product but works well in conjunction with other products once the undercoating is softened up. Just what works for me. 

[Bossbill]

Do not use "Goof-Off". It is strong enough to remove the stripes on wires in about a minute.
Jim

I tried to remove some glue from my plastic dash with this stuff.
I left it on too long and it melted the plastic!

[RocketScientist]

Mineral turpentine works very well at removing tar/bitumen coatings and is good on wires and doesn't attack the striping. Wires in the engine bay tend to be faded/discolored through age and heat and I found that by gentle sanding with fine wet&dry paper removes the upper faded layers of plastic (though you have to be wary of not sanding too much plastic away).  The sanding then leaves the wires looking dull and so I put the shine back on with car polish and yes, it is a very slow and time consuming practice. It is something you can do in front of the TV at night while bonding with the family.

[bullitt68]

+1.  I would really love to see a good article or an idiots guide to restoring wiring harness.  I need to do two cars worth and I know I am going to screw it up without adult supervision and expert advice.  Anyone?

Thanks,
Dan

Hi Dan if you find any information on restoring wiring harnesses please let me know as I have been searching as well

[HDAshmore]

Sure thing, There is some good advice coming in for cleaning with chemicals and the sonic cleaner and what not to use.  I am also looking for best way to take apart, mark, repair, re tape etc....  What to use, not use.  I know there is a company that re-weaves the rear harness with the outside protector material but I cannot remember who it is.  I called them once and the gentlemen was super nice and very reasonable. 

[midlife]

Sure thing, There is some good advice coming in for cleaning with chemicals and the sonic cleaner and what not to use.  I am also looking for best way to take apart, mark, repair, re tape etc....  What to use, not use.  I know there is a company that re-weaves the rear harness with the outside protector material but I cannot remember who it is.  I called them once and the gentlemen was super nice and very reasonable.

That's probably Rhode Island Wiring.

[J_Speegle]

Sure thing, There is some good advice coming in for cleaning with chemicals and the sonic cleaner and what not to use.  I am also looking for best way to take apart, mark, repair, re tape etc....  What to use, not use.  I know there is a company that re-weaves the rear harness with the outside protector material but I cannot remember who it is.  I called them once and the gentlemen was super nice and very reasonable.

One of the members has been recently dealing with getting his rear main loom rewrapped. Biggest issue was was the colors of the weave, multiple correct colors arranged in the original pattern.

[Bossbill]

Yes, and I'm close. Like all things, it's not that simple.

I have received a number of spools of various threads in order to get the size (diameter), plies, texture  and color correct.
One of the colors (none of which are black on my 67) is close, but it looks like I need to dye that spool to get the correct saturation. Of course, dying is not just dipping the spool into a vat.

Once I have the color right I will send my spools off to have them re-spooled onto their machine particular spools. 

This is fun, right?

[Bossbill]

Sure thing, There is some good advice coming in for cleaning with chemicals and the sonic cleaner and what not to use.  I am also looking for best way to take apart, mark, repair, re tape etc....  What to use, not use.  I know there is a company that re-weaves the rear harness with the outside protector material but I cannot remember who it is.  I called them once and the gentlemen was super nice and very reasonable.

In order to ready my harness I first took some cord, taped it to the harness and marked the cord with tape any place a wire or set of wires popped out. This also includes any plastic fasteners. I also marked any place a wire was attached to the outside of the braid with tape (like on the 67s with trunk light). I then used a set of very fine, sharp-nosed scissors to cut off all the weave. Then I cleaned each and every wire. You will need to use 3/4" black cloth friction tape and tape the harness every 2 feet or so. Lastly I used  the same tape  to re-attach plastic fasteners and to wrap where wires broke out of the harness.
You must use friction tape and not the glossy plastic stuff or it will be seen through the new braid.

I have sourced a really nice 3/4"  friction tape as used on VW/Audis which is pure back.
Any wire attached to the outside of the braid like the 67 trunk light wire is taped on with 1 1/2" black friction tape from 3M (on my 67, at least).

That's the prep work required before you send it in to re-braid it. Do note that none of the colors the re-braiders have in stock match the colors of your original braid.
Hence the issues I've noted in the previous post with colors.

[HDAshmore]

Everyone (Especially Bill),

Thank for the great advice and warnings.  The string technique sounds like just the ticket.  That and lots of pictures makes me think I can tackle this now.  I appreciate everyone's input.  Last question from me on this I think.

If I have to replace any hard plastic connectors, is it best to go OEM restorable or is there new reproduction that is "spot on exact" that is recommended?

Thanks

Dan in Kansas