Topic: 1968 GT 390 Tilt-A-Way Vacuum Canister Restoration

[bullitt68]

It is one piece so the nipple does not come out. It is a vacuum reservoir so basically a empty smaller coffee can . Some have a one way check valve made into the tip but otherwise empty. If blasting you should cover the nipple so no debris gets inside. Small holes can be soldered to close. You can suck on the nipple and quickly cap the end to see if it holds vacuum and no hole. The dipping in the rubber does a good job of sealing small leaks in seams.

Thanks Bob. I am not familiar with how the vacuum system works so I need to get unto speed on that. I will need to find the rest of the parts to complete the working system. I think that there is a wire on the steering column and I will need to hardware that activates that wire. I have heard that the system is not that reliable and most cars dont actually have functioning units. It would explain why someone converted it on my car

[bullitt68]

Nothing is "in the can". Its simply a reservoir for the vacuum (a place to hold it until its needed) needed to operate switches, plungers and other items that push and pull things.

Not sure that I would try and open one up. Perfectly sealing the fitting to the can again might be difficult.

Possibly - if it makes allot of sound when you shake or rotate it - you might inject some evapo rust into the insides to kill any rust and coat it a bit. For me if it doesn't need it focus on the exterior, making sure its solid and making it look original again


NOTE: Merged about five posts from the following thread over to this one

Blue Primer under sound deadener outer front fenders San Jose 1968

Great thanks Jeff

[bullitt68]

again, I would recommend testing the check valve before putting any work into it.  would be rough to spend time blasting, dipping, installing, covering with a fender and splash shield...and going for the maiden voyage only to find out it is broken.

Good point John. I will do that. So the check valve is the fitting for both hoses on the can?

[67gta289]

Correct. A good test is to place a hose on the outlet connect to a vacuum gauge.  Then connect the inlet to a vacuum source- either a hand pump or a running engine you can temporarily use.  Establish vacuum. Disconnect source. If vacuum holds for 15 minutes with minimal drop in vacuum you should be good to proceed.

[tobkob]

The cans were dipped in a rubber material. I used the black rubber material that you dip tool handles in . You can also do multiple coats of the same product sold in spray can form . You have to do multiple coats because if using the spray material it is much thinner then in a can.

My '69 was applied quite heavily with heavy drips on the end of the can and I had to dip several times to replicate them. I would suspect '68 would be the same.

TOB

[bullitt68]

Correct. A good test is to place a hose on the outlet connect to a vacuum gauge.  Then connect the inlet to a vacuum source- either a hand pump or a running engine you can temporarily use.  Establish vacuum. Disconnect source. If vacuum holds for 15 minutes with minimal drop in vacuum you should be good to proceed.

Excellent John I will do that thanks

[bullitt68]

My '69 was applied quite heavily with heavy drips on the end of the can and I had to dip several times to replicate them. I would suspect '68 would be the same.

TOB

Hi TOB my canister was really thick on the end almost 1/2 an inch, but the rest of it was pretty uniform with no drips. It actually looks like a very uniform application in the sides like a vinyl application

[tobkob]

Hi TOB my canister was really thick on the end almost 1/2 an inch, but the rest of it was pretty uniform with no drips. It actually looks like a very uniform application in the sides like a vinyl application

Yes that's how mine was...like it was hung top side up and a lot of the product settled on the bottom and left large drips.

TOB