Topic: 69 -70 Staggered Shock plates

[Brian Conway]

Staggered shock plates were the same for both 69 and 70 ?  Stamped ' 428 L and R ' .  Finish's for the plates, the axle U bolts and nuts ?  Thanks Brian

[Bob Gaines]

Staggered shock plates were the same for both 69 and 70 ?  Stamped ' 428 L and R ' .  Finish's for the plates, the axle U bolts and nuts ?  Thanks Brian

The finish's on the plates and U bolts where all bare fresh machined steel. Nuts were silver but dipped in red dye (lay out dye works the same) . It was a safety identification concern maybe to make double sure that they were tight. AMK sells them already dipped.

[Brian Conway]

Thank you Bob.  Clear and complete reply.  Seems the bare steel U bolts and plates would rust up pretty quick ?  The silver nuts with red dye would have some protection and would last a while longer.  Is there an accepted finish for the bare steel items that would afford some protection from the elements ?  Painted the same black as the axle tube would be the simplest ?  Thanks, Brian

[J_Speegle]

................Seems the bare steel U bolts and plates would rust up pretty quick ?

Not if they are protected with an oil or wax based product as discussed in other thread like Boshield

The silver nuts with red dye would have some protection and would last a while longer.  Is there an accepted finish for the bare steel items that would afford some protection from the elements ?

Bare steel with the oil is best and closest to what was originally done. Painted will typically look painted especially since it will lack the different tones produced in the metal that were produced as the part was formed. Painting will produce a mono-tone look and if applied with any thickness can be noticed by that clue

 

Painted the same black as the axle tube would be the simplest ?

Painting it any color might be the easiest but then it would not be restored nor like original

[Bob Gaines]

I thought I would add that many bare metal parts typically were treated with some type of rust inhibiter which most likely was cosmoline by the sub contractor before being delivered to the assembly line. It afforded a minimal amount of protection (but cheaper) compared to painting .

[Brian Conway]

Well OK then.  I am going to take a stab at restoring my OE staggered shock plates, U bolts and nuts.  Remove the nuts, U bolts and shock plates; remove dirt, grime and black paint down to bare steel.  Soak everything in Evapo-Rust, wire brush or steel wool the surface's until smooth and even in appearance.  The same for the U bolts and nuts. That done: apply a coat of Cosomoline, clear/amber, to the plates and U bolts and done ?  The nuts get a coat of lay-out Red Dyekem and done ?  Re-install on the axle tube and leaf springs.  Re-install the shocks and done ?  Pretty straight forward ?  Any suggestions, extra steps, anything I have skipped over ?   Would like a nice job so any tips will be useful.  Thanks, Brian

[J_Speegle]

.............Would like a nice job so any tips will be useful.  Thanks, Brian

You can (while your there)

1- recolor the springs if they do not still retain the original dark heat treated look. Plenty of threads about different methods of recoloring. Springs and clamps will be two very different finishes. There is an article in the Library on the basics of natural finishes - labeled that



2- Use Boeshield rather than the wax (Cosomoline). IMHO the heavy Cosomoline was used typically on service replacements that would be sitting around for a while before use.



Related threads that may help since there is no easy Button to originality

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=12633.msg76714#msg76714

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=13743.msg85744#msg85744

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=4008.msg22136#msg22136

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=11733.msg70823#msg70823

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=5890.msg33184#msg33184

[Bob Gaines]

Your bare metal parts will get the best look by putting in a tumbler of appropriate media ( I use steel shot). That is if they are not too pitted.

[J_Speegle]

Just depends on what your starting with. This will help guide you to the best/appropriate method for your situation. End goal is the focus

These were wired wheeled in a couple of areas, colored then steel wool  to give the brighter areas in the bend areas. Camera makes them look brighter and fresher that they did in person once oiled and placed on the car. One small surface rust spot on the left one that needed to be fixed before use

Just an example of the method depends on your starting point

[specialed]

We are doing a car now with ECS   RPM   (Rust Preventative Maintanance) product & its more time comsuming but it makes sence as u have to heat the metal first (torch) as the heat gets rid of any moisture in the metal & while metal is still hot apply the RPM product as it melts into the hot metal & soaks in.

[preaction]

I have used the RPM product and it works very well applied correctly it cant be seen. As a solid after application it has a bit more backbone than liquid Boeshield.

[Brian Conway]

The leaf springs are not going to be a part of this clean up/restoration.  The Shock plates and hardware only.  I would really like to toss these guys into a tumbler but that is not an option.  Nobody I know has one.  I have a wire wheel, wire brush's, steel wool, paint remover and Evapo-Rust.  In one of the example's Jeff referenced the entire shock plate gets the gun blue applied and I suppose the U bolts as well ?  The nuts get cleaned up and will be treated with the Red Dye.  For a finish the Boeshield T9 is referenced and is the accepted finish for many applications and I do use it.  I like the suggested ECS RPM and am going to give it a try.  The web-site ECS RPM does a pretty through job of description, application and cost.  I called Tom at ECS and he briefly described his product and offered that a less expensive 4 oz. bottle is also available.  I ordered the less expensive, $25 shipped, RPM from Tom and will be waiting for it to arrive before proceeding.  Did I leave any steps out or any other suggestions ?  Thanks, Brian     

[J_Speegle]

The leaf springs are not going to be a part of this clean up/restoration.  The Shock plates and hardware only.  I would really like to toss these guys into a tumbler but that is not an option.  Nobody I know has one.  I have a wire wheel, wire brush's, steel wool, paint remover and Evapo-Rust.  In one of the example's Jeff referenced the entire shock plate gets the gun blue applied and I suppose the U bolts as well ?  .......................

Depends on how your parts look after the Evapo-Rust bath. They are often darkened from that process and may only need some light steel wool to finish the look or more help if the finish is inconsistent or blotchy. I've use it allot since I don't have to do the bath all the time - just a fine, light or brass brush then the gun blueing to tone the finish down (applied with steel wool rather than a cloth or dip) since they are often too bright after the brushing

[Brian Conway]

OK great thanks for the advice.  Get these guys cleaned up and see what they look like.  Brian

[carlite65]

The leaf springs are not going to be a part of this clean up/restoration.  The Shock plates and hardware only.  I would really like to toss these guys into a tumbler but that is not an option.  Nobody I know has one.  I have a wire wheel, wire brush's, steel wool, paint remover and Evapo-Rust.  In one of the example's Jeff referenced the entire shock plate gets the gun blue applied and I suppose the U bolts as well ?  The nuts get cleaned up and will be treated with the Red Dye.  For a finish the Boeshield T9 is referenced and is the accepted finish for many applications and I do use it.  I like the suggested ECS RPM and am going to give it a try.  The web-site ECS RPM does a pretty through job of description, application and cost.  I called Tom at ECS and he briefly described his product and offered that a less expensive 4 oz. bottle is also available.  I ordered the less expensive, $25 shipped, RPM from Tom and will be waiting for it to arrive before proceeding.  Did I leave any steps out or any other suggestions ?  Thanks, Brian   

several members here offer a tumbling service. one that comes to mind is charles. i think that will yield the best result.