Topic: 69 -70 Staggered Shock plates

[67gtasanjose]

several members here offer a tumbling service. one that comes to mind is charles. i think that will yield the best result.

I used him last year and he did a great job. I also have a Harbor Freight large tumbler, it is VERY handy to have around with various media types.

[Brian Conway]

Got these guys cleaned up.  Pitting is minimal to none.  Got a few spots of black colored corrosion that are being difficult.  Evapo-Rust, wire brush, soap and water so far.  Not sure a wire wheel work out is necessary ?  None of these nuts show any trace of red.  So... how certain is the ' red ' treatment for these nuts ?  They are however ' swedged '.Brian

[Bob Gaines]

Got these guys cleaned up.  Pitting is minimal to none.  Got a few spots of black colored corrosion that are being difficult.  Evapo-Rust, wire brush, soap and water so far.  Not sure a wire wheel work out is necessary ?  None of these nuts show any trace of red.  So... how certain is the ' red ' treatment for these nuts ?  They are however ' swedged '.Brian

Those nuts need to be plated silver first before being coated with the red .They will not look like they are supposed to otherwise , also I am skeptical that the red dye will offer any corrosion protection at all. I don't think it was meant to last past assembly which most likely is why many times no indication of the dye is found. FYI other parts on the car were also safety red. Brake line fittings ,front disc brake hardware, differential nuts ,steering related bolts,just to name a few other S100 fasteners that can be found in 69.

[J_Speegle]

Got these guys cleaned up.  Pitting is minimal to none.  Got a few spots of black colored corrosion that are being difficult.  Evapo-Rust, wire brush, soap and water so far.  Not sure a wire wheel work out is necessary ?

Got to finish killing what appears to be some remaining rust in the pictures. Surprised that Evapo rust left this or maybe it's just light surface rust that flashed since you stripped the, Wire wheeling (may be difficult to get into some of the nooks depending on size of your wheel) would at least even out the finish across the whole piece (plate, nuts or U bolts) before you go further.

None of these nuts show any trace of red.  So... how certain is the ' red ' treatment for these nuts ? 

Plenty of original examples to support  the dying of these parts. This (the red dying of parts that were of special importance to safety and must be torqued) program was expanded in 68 by Ford to include a bunch of items but the dye is just that a dye that does not hold up well (sort of like the dichromate dye) on plated parts exposed to the elements

[Bob Gaines]

Those nuts need to be plated silver first before being coated with the red .They will not look like they are supposed to otherwise , also I am skeptical that the red dye will offer any corrosion protection at all. I don't think it was meant to last past assembly which most likely is why many times no indication of the dye is found. FYI other parts on the car were also safety red. Brake line fittings ,front disc brake hardware, differential nuts ,steering related bolts,just to name a few other S100 fasteners that can be found in 69.

I thought I would mention that some of the hardware that was dyed red started out with different finishes before being dipped in the dye . Some were zinc gold ,some where silver and some were P/O. The base finish underneath gave a different look afterwards when each finish fastener was dipped in the dyed .The P/O gave a much darker look to the red finished tint for instance .

[Brian Conway]

Well finished up and re-installed everything.  The plate finish is natural with a coat of the ECS Rust Preventative Magic.  No red dye and no gun blue.  Same finish for the U bolts and nuts.  Not impressed with the RPM.  Streaky and opaque.  Cosmoline or Boeshield would have been better choices.  Thanks for the help and interest.  Brian