Topic: '67 Smog Pump, SJ 289 c-code with PS - No A/C

[Fastback2013]

I took my time for reading all the posts concerning the thermactor on a 67 small/big block.
Must admit, lots of articles and very usefull!
A second great help is of course the Mustangtek website, but I know that the finish of the materials can alter depending on which plant.
I have several questions which I am not certain of, but I think it would be more synoptic if I post my questions one at a time?
concerning the smog pump, the "lid" at the backside of the housing (= cast iron) would be in black paint.
Are there any surfaces that wouldn't be painted?
in attachment a overall view of that lid.
Is everything painted black?
or are some (of all) surfaces (A/B/C/D) bare steel?
The 2 elbow's are those painted in the same black color as the lid itself? Or must it be different because it came from a different supplier?
And what about the 4 bolts that holds the lid at the housing?
(PO/painted black/ zinc/...)?
For reference and completeness I also attached a picture of the condition like it was (all components of the thermactor system came in a box with the purchase of the car)
Thanks in advance for the help!
Kind regards,
Jeroen

[J_Speegle]

Let me give this a try

The rear cast cover was painted black then machined from the pictures and evidence I have

The rear spots B- C- D in your drawings as well at those others surfaces was then machined

The tubes were installed after that and they appear to be plated with a smooth thin coat of something similar to black oxide.

Your A is an insert that was added after the machining so not machined nor painted black

Have not seen any evidence yet of multiple suppliers though that would be odd. If different ones were used have no found different versions that stand out from one another yet. Very few were installed at Dearborn and I don't think anyone had found a system installed at NJ for delivery in an emission state in 66-67. At least none I'm aware of

Would need to check the cover retaining bolts. The color/plating should be visible (hopefully) on the shaft and threads protected from the exterior exposure in less rust prone areas

[Fastback2013]

Thanks for your answers and help, Jeff!
Personally, I must admit that for a piece that's first painted black and after that is machined, it looks very crisp and neat!!

The rear spots B- C- D in your drawings as well at those others surfaces was then machined
-> OK, so those surfaces must be bare metal, not painted.

The tubes were installed after that and they appear to be plated with a smooth thin coat of something similar to black oxide.
-> agree that the surface is much smoother then the cast iron, so it must be(en) another finish.
Would the human eye see the difference in black paint shade?
Or would it be acceptable that it would be the same shade of black paint?
I would like that everything is as close to factory standards, but I don't want to dismantle such elements from the cast iron lid
Is there a consensus in what is agreed upon for such mather?

Your A is an insert that was added after the machining so not machined nor painted black
Ok, check!

Have not seen any evidence yet of multiple suppliers though that would be odd. If different ones were used have no found different versions that stand out from one another yet. Very few were installed at Dearborn and I don't think anyone had found a system installed at NJ for delivery in an emission state in 66-67. At least none I'm aware of
Thanks for that clarification.

Would need to check the cover retaining bolts. The color/plating should be visible (hopefully) on the shaft and threads protected from the exterior exposure in less rust prone areas
-> Much appreciated if you could clear/confirm this!

Kind regards,
Jeroen

[Fastback2013]

Hello Jeff,

in attachment first 2 pictures (A and B) of the retaining bolts for the lid.
Shaft and threads aren't touched (by me).
Could it be that the finish is zinc?

moving further on cleaning up the smog pump :
in the cast iron housing are sitting 3 'blades' which are held in place by the shaft of the lid.
Those 3 blades are sitting in a gap (red arrows in picture D) and each held in place by 2 'sticks' (back and front).
The sticks are made of a flat metal piece covered with a black material that is very brittle.
Some are still intact, others are broken and yet others are plane missing.
I want to apologise for not finding/using the correct therms, but I hope that you can understand me.
Since there are missing some of those sticks, is there a way to replace them?
Which material can I use?
Measurements are : 76mm long, 5 mm with and 4mm thick.

Is it necessary/needed to slightly grease up the outer wall of the rotating center piece (green arrow in picture D).
Or would that negatively interfere the good working of the pump in the near future?

Thanks for taking your time for helping me further!
Kind regards,
Jeroen

[67gtasanjose]

I might be stepping outside the concept of the Concours route with this comment but it isn't really uncommon for folks to disable the inner functions of the Air Pump (and associated check valves, gulp valves etc.) since it benefits a Concours Restoration by reducing exhaust temperatures. Disabling the system on this age of vehicle is seldom an issue for any local government inspections but I am sure there are places where it could be an issue for vehicle registration or use on the roadways. If this is considered, perhaps a person doing so should check their local guidelines and laws before disabling the system.

Now, with that out of the way, I have not heard of anyone selling the smog pump vain guides but obviously, they must be available to rebuilders. I have heard that the front main bearing of the smog pump is the same as the alternator front bearing but I have not yet confirmed this...I only state that if it helps you locate a service replacement for the typically #1 failure of these pumps.

[Fastback2013]

Hello Richard,

Thanks for your input and opinion.
It seems that the question(s) are not easy to answer...
I have scanned the black sticks and have a model in 3D ready for printing.
Would nylon be a good material for substitute the original?
It must hold the vains in the gap, while they're slidding back and forth -> so could nylon do the job?
Or am I overlooking something?
thanks for the help!
Kind regards,
Jeroen

[J_Speegle]

I have scanned the black sticks and have a model in 3D ready for printing.
Would nylon be a good material for substitute the original?
It must hold the vains in the gap, while they're slidding back and forth -> so could nylon do the job?
Or am I overlooking something?

Not sure if nylon would hold up to the conditions in the pump

Do have a Ford publication that covers the rebuilding of the pump that has not been converted for upload and posting on the site but not sure if that would have any answers for your current situation. Might consider seeing what it would just cost to have yours restored (they are doing the later versions - 68-70) or just sent to the company that is doing simple rebuilts - leaving the detailing up to you

[Fastback2013]

By all means, give me the name(s) of company(s) that do such rebuilds
I really don't want to invent hot water
For the record : what is the original material of those black sticks?
again,....!!! thanks for the help!
Kind regards,
Jeroen

[J_Speegle]

PM sent

As for the material the vanes are made from non- of the dozen or more manuals and documents I have for the pumps/systems include any descriptive words describing what they were made of

[67gt390fb]

I believe it could be a carbon-graphite material

[Fastback2013]

I found this site :
http://www.graphitestore.com/Graphite/Bushings-bearings-vanes/Blanks-extruded-carbon-graphite

It isn't the same shape, but it must be out somewhere

Jeroen

[rockhouse66]

I am not familiar with these earlier pumps as I only rebuild the '68 and later style.  The "sticks" are a carbon material.  I will PM you the name of a rebuilder that you can trust to rebuild this and return your actual pump to you.  You will still need to detail it though.

[J_Speegle]

I am not familiar with these earlier pumps as I only rebuild the '68 and later style.  The "sticks" are a carbon material.  I will PM you the name of a rebuilder that you can trust to rebuild this and return your actual pump to you.  You will still need to detail it though.

Thanks Jim 

[Fastback2013]

Today, I shipped my Smog Pump for rebuilding it.
Thanks to all who helped me further.
When I receive it back, I will show some pictures.

Moving further on the restoration of the whole thermactor system.
I want to take the bracket (C6OE-9B5452-A) for the smog pump off the engine block, but the bolt is just too long and it get stuck at the pulley (red arrow).
Does that mean I have to dismantle the radiator and pulley ?
While we're at it, the 2 spacers (green arrow), which finish should they be?
I guess it must be bare steel, since they're rusted?

Kind regards,
Jeroen

[J_Speegle]

I want to take the bracket (C6OE-9B5452-A) for the smog pump off the engine block, but the bolt is just too long and it get stuck at the pulley (red arrow).
Does that mean I have to dismantle the radiator and pulley ?

Just the fan and then the pulley. Guessing you already have the fan belts loose and off

While we're at it, the 2 spacers (green arrow), which finish should they be?
I guess it must be bare steel, since they're rusted?

Believe they were zinc or cad  plated. Can check pictures