Topic: Oiling PO bolts as a preventative measure

[Hipo giddyup]

 The repro bolts I used (PO) on my 64 1/2 are now turning to a rust color. I will be replacing them with new bolts and wanted to know if soaking the new bolts in oil would help prolong this??  If it can, what type of oil would you all recommend?
 As for the old "rusty" bolts, I will be putting them through evaporust and reusing them on my next project so not a total loss.

[carlite65]

i use plain old WD-40. applied periodically. works for me.

[Bob Gaines]

I use T9  Boeshield it seems to work better for me then regular oil ,WD40 ,etc.

[Bob Gaines]

FYI you might go over the bolts with a rust tinge with some eagle one chrome wheel cleaner. It has a foaming mild acid as a base and many times will make the rust disappear. I haven't used it on bolts in place like on a fender for instance . You have to rinse it off with water so it is important that they are quick dried with a rag etc. (air blowing with cause the flash rust to come back . They have to be at least 75% dry before using air to finish drying. You follow up with a rust inhibitor like T9 or similar.

[J_Speegle]

when possible and after cleaning and coloring (bluing and working) if needed I heat the part to remove any moisture in it as well as opening the pores then cool it in a bath or oil

Not too hot - don't want to change the metal or its properties.  Just what I've done for years

[jwc66k]

The repro bolts I used (PO) on my 64 1/2 are now turning to a rust color. I will be replacing them with new bolts and wanted to know if soaking the new bolts in oil would help prolong this??  If it can, what type of oil would you all recommend?

Read my "Phosphating 101" first.

As for the old "rusty" bolts, I will be putting them through evaporust and reusing them on my next project so not a total loss.

Actually, it will. Evaporust removes rust - period. I does not provide protection to the steel. After two weeks in semi-arid California, new rust appears on previously dipped in Evaorust parts. It's less elapsed time for more humid areas. Coating them with oil without any other surface preparation seems to seal the moisture in.

i use plain old WD-40. applied periodically. works for me.

After bead blasting and phosphating - yes.

I use T9  Boeshield it seems to work better for me then regular oil ,WD40 ,etc.

I've seen little difference, except Boeshield is more expensive. When I phosphate hood hinges and latches, I flush the moving parts, joints, pivots, etc, with WD-40 until it runs clear.

FYI you might go over the bolts with a rust tinge with some eagle one chrome wheel cleaner. It has a foaming mild acid as a base and many times will make the rust disappear. I haven't used it on bolts in place like on a fender for instance . You have to rinse it off with water so it is important that they are quick dried with a rag etc. (air blowing with cause the flash rust to come back . They have to be at least 75% dry before using air to finish drying. You follow up with a rust inhibitor like T9 or similar.

Short cuts don't work.

when possible and after cleaning and coloring (bluing and working) if needed I heat the part to remove any moisture in it as well as opening the pores then cool it in a bath or oil

In sunny California, not a problem. An oven works, sometimes. I've had to redo some parts as "flash rust" appeared.

Not too hot - don't want to change the metal or its properties.  Just what I've done for years

You would have to get steel well over 1000F to make a change. I tried 30 weight motor oil heated to about 450F. All I managed to do was stink up the neighborhood.
Jim

[Bob Gaines]

Read my "Phosphating 101" first.Actually, it will. Evaporust removes rust - period. I does not provide protection to the steel. After two weeks in semi-arid California, new rust appears on previously dipped in Evaorust parts. It's less elapsed time for more humid areas. Coating them with oil without any other surface preparation seems to seal the moisture in. After bead blasting and phosphating - yes.I've seen little difference, except Boeshield is more expensive. When I phosphate hood hinges and latches, I flush the moving parts, joints, pivots, etc, with WD-40 until it runs clear.Short cuts don't work.In sunny California, not a problem. An oven works, sometimes. I've had to redo some parts as "flash rust" appeared.You would have to get steel well over 1000F to make a change. I tried 30 weight motor oil heated to about 450F. All I managed to do was stink up the neighborhood.
Jim

Some things that work for you don't work for me ether. To each their own.

[jwc66k]

Some things that work for you don't work for me ether. To each their own.

I've been phosphating steel parts for over 25 years. I got into that area at the urging of a MCA Gold Card Judge. Jeff knows who I mean, Rich C. I have many satisfied customers on this forum, one got his parts shipped today about 2 hours ago. The procedure I follow is the one developed back in the 1870's by the British that had an off shoot called Parkerizing. Phosphating is the process used by hardware vendors that supplied Ford back in the 60's and 70's. You can re-invent the wheel, I'll stick with tried, true and concourse (with reservations of course).
Jim

[Bob Gaines]

I've been phosphating steel parts for over 25 years. I got into that area at the urging of a MCA Gold Card Judge. Jeff knows who I mean, Rich C. I have many satisfied customers on this forum, one got his parts shipped today about 2 hours ago. The procedure I follow is the one developed back in the 1870's by the British that had an off shoot called Parkerizing. Phosphating is the process used by hardware vendors that supplied Ford back in the 60's and 70's. You can re-invent the wheel, I'll stick with tried, true and concourse (with reservations of course).
Jim

Jim, no need come off like someone kicked your dog . There is more then one way to deal with a problem some less involved then others . That doesn't mean they are better if that is what got you stirred up,  just less involved . There is the best way and then there are the ways that include compromises. The chrome cleaner /acid washed is one of those less involved ways to accomplish not the most ideal way but something similar with less effort. Anyway it had to do with getting rid of the flash rust and not a P/O redo. I thought the OP might get discouraged with a involved process and offered a less involved way.  If the quickie dissertation on P/O was for my benefit then I appreciate the thought but I know enough about the process to be doing it myself for my own uses many years now. You are not the only one doing it for 25 years. Try 30+ for me. My point being don't be so confrontational I was trying to be helpful without discouraging the OP. There is more then one way to skin a cat and I was offering another way. Hopefully we can agree to disagree and leave it at that. With that said If you have a issue with me then take it off line please.   

[DKutz]

Boeshield

[Hipo giddyup]

 I will be trying out the Boeshield, but my one question is do I soak the bolts in Boeshield or use the spray on??

Bill

[preaction]

You only need to spray it on and as it drys it will leave a waxy coating.

[jwc66k]

Jim, no need come off like someone kicked your dog .

PETA will come after you for that.

Try 30+ for me.   
My point being don't be so confrontational I was trying to be helpful without discouraging the OP.

Thirty years ago I was running a nine figure a year company. Forty years ago I was building communications satellites. I was on the front line for innovation. I also learned you don't reinvent the wheel. We are "restoring" cars, not designing them from scratch.
I note that there are "professional automobile restorers" on this forum. A couple have, or have access to "tools" I don't have and I am envious. Phosphating hardware is an easy process, and its initial investment is not much. Preparation is the key. A bead blasting cabinet is essential, which is the big dollar item. A wire wheel does not work, soaking in Exaporust does not work, there's a couple of other techniques that are in the same category.
That's the facts.
Jim

[jwc66k]

Let me put this into perspective: I sorted the 64-66 Mustang Hardware Spreadsheet by finish. Then I deleted all but -S2  (the number 2 representing phosphate and oil finish in the second column) to be used in a count. The results were 2415 hardware items that were phosphate and oil treated. Those are nut, bolts, studs, washers and some miscellaneous items. Some are repeated for the three different years, so for purposes of discussion, I cut the number in half to 1000. That 1000 items is an incentive to "invest" in the special tools and processes to provide the proper phosphate and oil finish.
Jim

[Hawkeye]

The repro bolts I used (PO) on my 64 1/2 are now turning to a rust color. I will be replacing them with new bolts and wanted to know if soaking the new bolts in oil would help prolong this??  If it can, what type of oil would you all recommend?
 As for the old "rusty" bolts, I will be putting them through evaporust and reusing them on my next project so not a total loss.

I'm noticing the same problem on a few of the under-hood bolts on mine, and have been wondering about it as well.  Good question, and I appreciate all the suggestions.  I have to see which ones I can remove and treat, and which ones might have to be treated in place.