Topic: 68 center link finish and ps valve.

[68 S Code]

I have most of my suspension pieces cleaned, evapo rust dipped and ready for final finish. This will be a street driven concourse car so I really don't want to have to constantly refinish components. i know painting would be a quick solution but I've been told that applying comosile would be good for about 18 months and then you just need to reapply. What would you suggest for the center link? Should it get the gun bluing and hen a light coat of clear urethane or gun bluing and comosile?

[CharlesTurner]

How does the part look after evapo-rust?  Seen some stuff look nearly good enough to use, right out of the solution.

[68 S Code]

If you tell me how to post a picture I will show you. The 5 gallon bucket was well worth it. Don't need to sandblast as much anymore. I run the part in question under a wire wheel to loosen up the rust or remove any paint and then dip it for a day or two. If your not ready to refinish or waiting to do a batch you just wash the part, dip it for a few seconds, and let it air dry. Will stay rust free for 2 weeks. If rust comes back just re dip. Control arms looked like new and I didn't add any texture with bead blasting. The only thing which was an issue was gas tank neck. Evapo-rust reacted with the tin finish thought it was galvanized but been corrected). The tinning turned fluorescent green in blotches. Nothing except a small wire brush could get it off. Best $90 I spent this summer.

My engine builder friend bought a 55 gallon drum and he will be dipping my engine after machining process. He agrees that its a wonderful product. Best part is that it doesn't effect other non iron parts. Dipped emergency brake cable with a rubber nipple and the nipple was unaffected. 

[68 S Code]

Charles, what is the finish on the center link for a 68. Just raw or did it get heat treated (meaning I need to blue it)?

[CharlesTurner]

The finish was just a natural cast appearance, slightly darkened from the forming process and then coated with cosmoline. 

I've had good results with dipping in a hot manganese phosphate solution for 15 seconds.  Dry out the part and then rub with steel wool and oil.  Followed by a coat of boe-shield.

[68 S Code]

Thank you.

[gtamustang]

I run the part in question under a wire wheel to loosen up the rust or remove any paint ...

Personally, I would avoid using a wire wheel as you loose the original finish by doing that. Try cleaning the part in a parts washer using a brass brush, then put the part in the evapo-rust. Afterwards, wipe the part dry to remove any of the by-product from the evapo-rust and you are left with the original finish. Spray with whatever rust protectant you prefer.

Removing rust prior to evapo-rust is not needed as the solution will do that work for you. You might be surprised to find paint marks that you didn't know where there! Also, I use paint stripper to remove any paint that should not be there. Again, that doesn't affect the original finish.

Charles' method with phosphate (I can achieve the same finish with zinc versus manganese) works well too.

Regards,
Pete Morgan

[68 S Code]

Pete thanks for the suggestion. This zinc and manganese finishes you mention are these home kits or do you have to send out the parts. I saw my friend who restores these cars for a living does his own phospating using an old stove. he cooks up a brew and coats the parts. Too bad he's not local. If there are some home kits for the weekend restorer where do you get the stuff?

[CharlesTurner]

You can buy zinc or manganese phosphate from most any gun supply store.  There's some online, such as midway usa.

[68 S Code]

Thanks for the info. Does this require cooking up a brew or do you just wipe it on right out of a can?

[CharlesTurner]

Thanks for the info. Does this require cooking up a brew or do you just wipe it on right out of a can?

Just mix the solution with water, put in a stainless steel pot and bring the temperature to 180F before dropping parts in.  Let them soak from 5-15 minutes depending on size.  Some instructions say to put in a pad of coarse steel wool to "prime" the solution before using on parts.

[68 S Code]

Ran across something odd on the PS valve assembly. Once it cleaned up I found a white paint mark between the stud and the main body of the cast valve. Easy enough to replicate this white mark. But the odd thing is that the end of the cylinder with the stud appears to have been dipped black just short of the stud. Also the collar with the bolt that is used to tighten the end around the center link is painted half black and half natural (black across the top and natural across the bottom with the bolt. At first i suspected someone may have been painting the engine compartment on my car prior to me owning it and possibly they accidentally painted this end black. But once I removed the clamp with the bolt I found paint below it. That leads me to believe that this piece was dipped before the collar was added. Why the collar is half black i don't know.

What would you say would be correct. Should I dip the end and reinstall the half black half natural collar as is? Has anyone seen this before. I won't even repaint it as it looks presentable as is.

[CharlesTurner]

Most all of the control valves I've seen were natural, no paint.  Are you sure your control valve hasn't been removed/rebuilt or is a replacement piece?

[Bob Gaines]

Most all of the control valves I've seen were natural, no paint.  Are you sure your control valve hasn't been removed/rebuilt or is a replacement piece?

+1. Bob

[68 S Code]

Looks to be dated correctly on the alum end cap with 8e7b. The white paint daub wouldn't have been done by Rebuilder.