Author Topic: 70 M Code what type of carburetor did my car originally come with?  (Read 2605 times)

Offline palacekeeper

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 65
I have a 1970 351c M code with a 4v, and when I obtained the car, it had a Holley 4bbl carburetor. I'm considering putting a new carburetor on the car, but I've been trying to keep the car close to original when possible. Can anyone tell me what brand/type carburetor the car would have had? Should I attempt to purchase a repro of the original or just a good quality new Holley or other brand carburetor? Any suggestions are appreciated.
« Last Edit: July 03, 2018, 03:15:53 PM by J_Speegle »
1970 Mustang Mach 1, Grabber Blue
351C 4V M-code, Non A/C
Built at Metuchen
Build Date: December 19, 1969
Dealer: 21A461 Whaley-Dailey Ford Sales, Conyers, GA

Offline jwc66k

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 7347
Re: 70 M Code what type of carburetor did my car originally come with?
« Reply #1 on: July 03, 2018, 12:10:15 AM »
Did you look in the library? Try the "Year-Engine-Carburetor List" spreadsheet.
Jim
« Last Edit: July 03, 2018, 03:16:01 PM by J_Speegle »
I promise to be politically correct in all my posts to keep the BBBB from vociferating.

Offline J_Speegle

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 24630
I have a 1970 351c M code with a 4v, and when I obtained the car, it had a Holley 4bbl carburetor. I'm considering putting a new carburetor on the car, but I've been trying to keep the car close to original when possible. Can anyone tell me what brand/type carburetor the car would have had?


Should I attempt to purchase a repro of the original or just a good quality new Holley or other brand carburetor? Any suggestions are appreciated.

There are no reproductions and considering that you want to keep the car original and the site (we focus on originality here) your going to need to find one

Not everything is as easy as clicking on a "Buy now" button. That's part of owning one of these cars and part of the accomplishment when done.  IF it were easy - everyone would be doing it ;)

They are out there. Place some ads around on the sites and start hunting. Saw one at the last swap meet (friend had it) Came off a running car 6 months ago. Went for only $30 but expect to pay more than that
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline J_Speegle

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 24630
Here is where the search feature can help.

From a unrestored unrestored M code 70. Will show you what your looking for

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=13236.msg81108#msg81108

Hope it helps
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline 70cj428

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 314
To answer your question.....

Your car came with an Autolite 4300 Carb. Should be a D0OF-AB for a manual transmission car, and D0OF-AC (non air) or AD (w/Air) for an automatic transmission car (The AD carb has an idle solenoid). The parts books also show a D0OF-Z for manual transmission cars and D0OF-Y for non air automatic cars but I've never seen either of these carbs in real life on a car. The number will be on the tag if it's still there or stamped on the side of the baseplate near one of the mounting bosses.

Here's what it looks like...

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/d0of-9510-ad.html?attribs=80

Quote
Should I attempt to purchase a repro of the original or just a good quality new Holley or other brand carburetor?

Obviously, if your going the Concourse resto route, you'll need to find the correct carb. If your going to drive the car, I my opinion a vacuum secondary Holley is a much better carb and is a lot easier to tune. The 4300's were "Problematic" even when these cars are new and tuning parts are non existent. They tend to have an off idle stumble that can be tough to tune away and they tend to leak at the front edge of car where the top and the main body come together. These carbs can be hard to find as most of them on the Cleveland's got replaced with a Holley at some point. When you find them, they usually sell for around 200.00 as a rebuildable core.

Hope this helps, John
« Last Edit: July 03, 2018, 09:17:43 PM by 70cj428 »

Offline J_Speegle

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 24630
You also have an idle solenoid that was originally attached to the carb to keep form "dieseling" or "running on"

Retrofitting it to a Holley might be a "fun" task

A couple of pictures of the bracket and solenoid for that application


Ignore the arrows - original picture used in another thread here








Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline palacekeeper

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 65
Thanks everyone for the replies and information on this. I asked this question on this forum because the information and accuracy about originality seems to be unbeatable. That said, I am trying to keep the car "close" to original when feasible and possible, but with the possible exception of when it is at the expense of making the car a reliable and fun cruiser. Finding, rebuilding and adding an old potentially leaky carb, for example, might be where I'd stray a bit - mainly because the car is already "compromised" from the level of originality many on this forum are likely seeking, due to the fact that it has a 4 speed toploader as opposed to a 3 speed.

I guess another way to put it is that I'm okay with "tasteful" mods that don't digress too much from the original character of the car or that were considered common upgrades at the time - at the expense sometimes of originality. For example, I've put the original model AM radio back in the car but I plan to have the internals modernized. I've also put Flowmaster mufflers on the car.

Keep in mind, though, that I'm using my own taste gauge here, and this is in my own humble opinion. To me, its a matter of pros and cons, because I don't expect to win any shows, but I do like keeping the car mostly original but also having it as a reliable and fun weekend cruiser.

Getting back to the original question, I had heard similar stories about the problems with some of these original carburetors, so I'm considering something like a new Holley since they are not terribly expensive and I can probably install it myself without too much difficulty. It's not a big sacrifice to replace the one I have that was already a replacement anyway.

And let me reiterate that it is super helpful to find out the original details from folks on this site, because it allows more informed decisions, regardless of which way I go.
1970 Mustang Mach 1, Grabber Blue
351C 4V M-code, Non A/C
Built at Metuchen
Build Date: December 19, 1969
Dealer: 21A461 Whaley-Dailey Ford Sales, Conyers, GA

Offline J_Speegle

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 24630
Would note that the car in the pictures I posted still had the original carb, never rebuilt at was still performing fine when the owner brought in the car to be modified.  Likely could have bought the car at the swap meet, installed it and still have plenty of years usage left it it though I would have rebuilt or restored it myself.  Though it would have set on my shelf I thought to myself I should have purchased it but only came to me senses after I found out how cheap it went for
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline cobrajet_carl

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 363
Would note that the car in the pictures I posted still had the original carb, never rebuilt at was still performing fine when the owner brought in the car to be modified.
Those carbs have a lot of performance issues. It is tough to find one now that doesn't have a warped body or bad transition circuit. I bought a restored one that was date code correct but it ran like crap and weeped fuel from the housing.
Carl
70 and 71 Dearborn mach Is