Topic: Refinishing HiPo "headers"/exhaust manifolds

[MustangAndFairlane1867]

Final question for June :  The factory HiPo "headers" on the '65 K code I'm re-assemblying from several boxes of parts are in good condition but showing some signs of surface rust and oil stains.  I'd like to know if removing these "blems" by gently working on them in my bead blaster would be correct from a Concourse perspective, and if yes, what would be the proper finish (if any) to apply when they're clean?  Again, thanks for the advice and sorry for this recent flurry of questions.  Thanks, Ron

[J_Speegle]

Did you look at prior threads on the subject of finishing them? Believe most of the comments would stand the test of time though maybe someone has discovered something new. I'm still sticking with the ceramic that I spray on or the liquid graphite - more the first than the second currently. Where you live, how the car is going to be used and haw and where its stored all come into play


http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=12834.msg78226#msg78226

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=8590.msg50309#msg50309

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=3687.msg42600#msg42600

Also don't forget the locks and don't forget to engage them

[MustangAndFairlane1867]

Thanks, Jeff.  Dynamite information.  I'm now thinking of trying one of the Eastwood rattle can products.  Ron

[J_Speegle]

Thanks, Jeff.  Dynamite information.  I'm now thinking of trying one of the Eastwood rattle can products.  Ron

Good luck. Remember its not easy (if it doesn't work out) to fix this sort of thing. So please don't choose the easiest or the cheapest automatically.

[jwc66k]

I'm now thinking of trying one of the Eastwood rattle can products. 

Ron, consider the Eastwood brush on variety.
Jim

[MustangAndFairlane1867]

Jim

What's the advantage of brushing it on as opposed to spraying on 2 or 3 coats with a rattle can with 2-3 days of drying time between coats?  Thanks, Ron

[jwc66k]

I've gotten better results with brush on vs. spray. Don't get me wrong, I use a lot of "rattle can" paint. Don't spray the insides, it will stink as it burns off.
I have a pair of standard 289 exhaust manifolds in the "to do" pile. One side will be painted with regular Eastwood high temp exhaust brush on paint, the other with Eastwood Stainless high temp brush on paint. I just want to see the difference.
I have used Mckay's Graphite spray in the past, but it doesn't seem to last.
Jim

[J_Speegle]

............ One side will be painted with regular Eastwood high temp exhaust brush on paint, the other with Eastwood Stainless high temp brush on paint. I just want to see the difference.

Should try some of the ceramic paints one day. Though they are more expensive

[MustangAndFairlane1867]

Thanks for all the input everyone.  I went to the Eastwood website just now and am looking at their "Factory Gray Hi-temp Coating" (item#10395Z).  It got 3 out of 5 stars and the 3 who liked it seemed to really like it.  Here's a link to the item on Eastwood's website: https://www.eastwood.com/factory-gray-hi-temp-coating.html.  Please let me know if anyone has used this or has an opinion on it.  I'm not going to order it until I get some opinions here.  Again, this is for the factory exhaust "headers" on my '65 K-code which I need to bead blast and paint to get ride of some surface rust and a few oil stains, etc.  Thanks, Ron

[ChrisV289]

Has anyone used this:

http://www.hirschauto.com/Exhaust-And-Manifold-Coatings/departments/13/

my friend did his GTX years ago and still looks new

[rocket289k]

For what it's worth I choose to go the "ceramic coating" route on my exhaust manifolds vs. a paint based solution.  I am very pleased with that decision.  The color of the end product is extremely close to bare cast iron and it's stood up well.  This is powder and bake solution.  An added benefit of using a ceramic coating is reduced heat in the engine compartment. 

Ron

[MustangAndFairlane1867]

Ron

Which ceramic product did you buy and from which vendor?  Do you have a part number and maybe a link to wherever you bought it?  Sounds like something I'll want to look into for my factory headers.  Thanks, Ron

[67350#1242]

I've used Eastwoods stainless steel hi temp coating - similar or same product but a little lighter in color.
Very impressed with results after more than 10 years still look good.
As I recall it was suggested to clean and just wirebrush the manifolds rather than blast for best results but I am sure others have blasted and had fine outcome.
The only suggestion I have is not to stroke it on very thick as brush strokes will show.  You can thin the paint (from the can) A LOT and still have real good coverage with a pass or two - it really doesn't take much paint.  Small foam brush works well.  Dries to a flat sheen that looks natural.
You can air dry then bolt up and run car to cure or perhaps place in hot oven for 30min or so but the fumes are really really bad so wouldn't suggest that unless you have access to oven in well ventilated area.
If you need touch up can often be done while on the car with thinned coat and foam brush.   I think I've
had to do this once or twice in 10 yrs - due to slight discoloration in small areas but not due to any chipping or flaking of the coating.
All in all this is a good product that will keep manifold looking good for many years.  Kurt.

[MustangAndFairlane1867]

Kurt

Is this the Eastwood product you used?

https://www.eastwood.com/silver-hi-temp-coating.html

Thanks, Ron

[rocket289k]

Ron

Which ceramic product did you buy and from which vendor?  Do you have a part number and maybe a link to wherever you bought it?  Sounds like something I'll want to look into for my factory headers.  Thanks, Ron

Hi there - I farmed out the job to a specialty coating company (I'd have to look up who my mechanic recommended - it was a few years ago).  They specialized in powder coating metals and ceramic coating engine parts.  It wasn't inexpensive (I seem to recall $200).  Having said that they still look like the day I installed them.


Ron