Topic: 1966 Rally pac

[Hipo giddyup]

I just purchased an original 1966 rally pac. I had a few questions while I’m in the process of restoring it. The first is what is the best way to test the tach out of the car. I wanna make sure I do it correctly without damaging a possibly good working tach. Secondly, I previously restored a 65 rally pac and  reproduced  the black wrinkle finish on the pod housing. What was the finish on the 66 housing? This rally pac looks to have a textured finish but not as rough as the 65. Is the color finish a satin? Thanks for a reply.

[J_Speegle]

I just purchased an original 1966 rally pac. I had a few questions while I'm in the process of restoring it. The first is what is the best way to test the tach out of the car. I wanna make sure I do it correctly without damaging a possibly good working tach.

I normally just choose the easy route (well easy for me) and just installed/connected it to a know running car. Often if its not good the car will not start. If it does you can go from there and at least compare it to a ignition tester

Secondly, I previously restored a 65 rally pac and  reproduced  the black wrinkle finish on the pod housing. What was the finish on the 66 housing? This rally pac looks to have a textured finish but not as rough as the 65. Is the color finish a satin? Thanks for a reply.

Yes satin or low gloss like the rest of the interior. Believe its still a wrinkle finish just a finer grain. You can control the amount somewhat by the application or amount of heat or temperature during the curing process

[midlife]

A very easy way to test a tach or rally pac: remove the lead to the + side of the coil and attach it to the female plug of the tach.  Use jumper cables of some sort to go from the male plug of the tach to the + side of the coil.  You can put the unit on a fender (blanket, please!).  Then try and start the car.  If it runs, and the tach needle moves, it probably is good.  If it runs and the tach needle does not move, then the gauge guts are bad.  If it doesn't run, then the input transformer is blown and the gauge guts may or may not be good.

[Hipo giddyup]

Ah-Ha!! I was thinking of putting it "inline" with the coil as if it were inside the car.     Now that the wiring guru says to do it, I feel more confident than just winging it. Thanks so much Midlife!!

[rocket289k]

Ah-Ha!! I was thinking of putting it "inline" with the coil as if it were inside the car.     Now that the wiring guru says to do it, I feel more confident than just winging it. Thanks so much Midlife!!

It's much easier to test this way (to see if the tach and the clock are working).  Do not be alarmed if the clock stops and starts.  In a lot of cases, the clock winding mechanism (which is a points like system that will likley need to be cleaned / filed down) and the mechanical parts of the clock will definitely need to be lubricated (pivot points / gears etc.).  There are a number of lubrication points that need a oiling (less is more in this job.  A needle point oiler is a must.  PS - Lubricating oils used on model trains work great for this job.  After going thru this process I have my original clock working great (loses about 5 min of time over a "car season").

Regards,


Ron

[Hipo giddyup]

Great info. Thank you Ron.

[Hipo giddyup]

Ok , one more question... is the mounting bracket and channel that goes underneath the column supposed to be semi gloss or wrinkle finish???

[jwc66k]

Ok , one more question... is the mounting bracket and channel that goes underneath the column supposed to be semi gloss or wrinkle finish???

Semi gloss.
Are you aware that factory supplied Rally Pac could have been color keyed to the dash color. Obviously a black Rally Pac goes with a black interior. Some factory "may" have been black with a non-black interior (note: old wives tale, but -). Most dealer supplied Rally Pacs were black.
Note: Because of concerns about air pollution, and possibly low demand, wrinkle finish paints, other than black, have disappeared.
Jim

[Hipo giddyup]

Correct Jim. My rally pac is black as is my interior. ;-)  I tested the tach as specified by midlife and the car starts but the tach doesn't move. I am planning on sending it out for repair. The clock worked for one time around and stopped as well. I am still fooling with that. I hope to post pics before and after the resto for members to reference.

[jwc66k]

I would be interested in who you find to do tach repairs.
My 66K tach worked for about 10 years, then would only read up to 2500 rpm, then it would not zero, then the tach stopped working altogether. My car runs fine so assume it's the "bearings" for the arm.
A similar "bearing" situation occurred on a couple of clocks I was trying to fix. The main springs slipped off their bearings. I returned them to the source, along with six functioning clocks I repaired (contacts). I kept one for payment.
Jim

[196667Bob]

Jim : Try Williamson's. http://williamsons.com/Home_Page.php . They have been in business a long time and do excellent work. Not cheap however. I have used them several times at the advice of a friend of mine that I grew up with, who ended up restoring cars (from Moons, to Barris Customs to Street Rods) for a living. He has used them since the 70's.

Bob

[Hipo giddyup]

I am actually following up on a few leads myself. One of which is this company who replaces the internals with complete "new" tach components. Tachs are completely refurbished and they claim  "Without leaving you stranded" like the old tachs are possible of.? Anyone use this company??

http://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-mustang-all

My other contact repairs the tachs without "modernizing them but comes highly recommended from another member here.  Open to any feedback.. Thanks

[jwc66k]

One of which is this company who replaces the internals with complete "new" tach components. Tachs are completely refurbished and they claim  "Without leaving you stranded" like the old tachs are possible of.? Anyone use this company??
http://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-mustang-all

If you read their ad, they "convert your core". That is exactly what I don't want. It appears you get your tach back with a new lead to the distributor.
Jim

[Hipo giddyup]

Correct Jim. The internals are completey new/aftermarket, nothing from Ford. Either folks like it or not. Not saying I would go with this company but curious if anyone has dealt with them..

[midlife]

RCCI has a great reputation for quality, service at a fair and reasonable price.  While he doesn't cater to the Concours crowd, his headlight relay systems, voltmeters, and replacement dash cluster pods from indicator lamps to indicator lamps and tachs are what a lot of people want.  I deal with Bob semi-regularly, and I can't say enough good things about him. 

I know of a quality Ford and Shelby gauge repair guy who has a very good reputation; if you want a reference, PM me.