Topic: Addressing shock tower rust

[tmahle]

Hello,
I'm a new owner of a Mustang so please bare with me as I learn about my History Mystery.

The area where the fenders bolt to the body along the top edge of the engine compartment is all one stamped piece in 1968 or is there a small recess for the shock tower?  On the drivers side of the car I did manage to find the VIN number hiding under a few layers of paint stamped just to the left of the shock tower so I believe that part is still original but not sure if someone put in a new shock tower in making it look shabby.

There are like odd shape holes (not going all the way through) but welded to shock tower section.  Looks bad but is this original?  Hard to explain

[carlite65]

can you post a pic please??

[tmahle]

A picture will help my thousand words.

[Bob Gaines]

A picture will help my thousand words.

That is rust damage cause by moisture getting in between the different layers that make up the shock tower area. It is a very common problem for cars in rust prone areas.

[J_Speegle]

That is rust damage cause by moisture getting in between the different layers that make up the shock tower area. It is a very common problem for cars in rust prone areas.

+1  No your car was not delivered originally with that gaping hole. As the rust builds and converts the sandwiched metal oxidization causes it to expand creating a risen "bubble" which with continue to rust until it breaks through or an owner pries, cuts through or digs out the area as yours has. Your car has four of these areas. if one is gone others may be on their way.

How they look - far left

Rust starting to peek through - middle

Rusted through - far right

[tmahle]

This is very good news to me.  Here I thought the shock tower was replaced and someone cut it out.  Based on photos it is suppose to have a 1/16 drop down.   I only have one piece of sheet metal that is not original were the battery sits that has been replaced i suspect due to corrosion.

 Do people just clean up those rust holes and drop in a small piece of sheet metal and clean it up by grinding out the welds?  Mine is solid underneath so only the top is gone.

[67gta289]

What I have done in the past (worked for me)

1. Create template to identify spot weld locations
2. Cut out rot - squared off for easier repair.  Top and bottom if necessary.  If your bottom piece is solid you are fortunate
3. Match sheet metal gauge, fabricate replacement pieces
4. Weld through primer on hidden areas
5. Weld new pieces in
6. Replace original spot welds.  If you don't have or can't borrow a spot welder, these can be simulated.  Search through old postings as this has been discussed a few times.

If there are alternative ideas out there someone will certainly chime in.

[Bob Gaines]

This is very good news to me.  Here I thought the shock tower was replaced and someone cut it out.  Based on photos it is suppose to have a 1/16 drop down.   I only have one piece of sheet metal that is not original were the battery sits that has been replaced i suspect due to corrosion.

 Do people just clean up those rust holes and drop in a small piece of sheet metal and clean it up by grinding out the welds?  Mine is solid underneath so only the top is gone.

Keep in mind that as rust repair goes, what you see on the surface is only about half of what you can't see. If you don't cut out ALL of the cancerous  rust it WILL come back.

[J_Speegle]

The description of an iceberg comes to mind 

[tmahle]

Thanks, 

Since writing this a local mustang expert came over and looked at it.  He also suggested just as you did to cut all if it out and replace that entire portion and respot weld it.  I could not understand why do all that extra labor  when it was such a small spot but you explained it perfectly to me to remove all the unseen cancer.  Who would want to do it all over again.
Thanks again.
Tim