Topic: Ford Wire Terminals & Connectors

[midlife]

I cannot remember any 65 or 66 Mustang with a spade lug.

Used on 65/66 grounds for instrument cluster CVR's.  Sometimes a bullet connector connecting to a metal grounding tab was also used. 

[jwc66k]

Used on 65/66 grounds for instrument cluster CVR's.   

The same name, "spade", describes two similar electrical connections.
Pic 1 - a spade lug. There are a few variations to this, "snap" spade; "bent tip" spade; both designed for better retention. It uses a screw for a positive connection. Not used on Mustangs thru at least 1969.
Pic 2 - a spade terminal. This style is what you are referring to. It is a push on, in this case a female terminal on a wire onto a male terminal used for a better ground.
Note: Spade lugs were not approved for Military or NASA applications at least thru the 80's.
Jim

[66SevenLitre]

jwc66K / MidLife / Jim - have you or anyone else ever heard of a source and/or method to recreate the rubber block terminals used in `66 Fords (and/or other years)?

Referring to the picture below, I'm looking to create a factory-type black terminal (preferably rubber block/yoke type, somewhat similar to the dual black/yellow lead) for the heavy red lead on the power side of the solenoid.  Currently it has a modern yellow jacket.  Please disregard the black wire with yellow jacket which has since been removed. 

This heavy red wire goes from the solenoid around the fenderwell along the top of the firewall through to the junction block inside the passenger compartment.   

[midlife]

The same name, "spade", describes two similar electrical connections.
Pic 1 - a spade lug. There are a few variations to this, "snap" spade; "bent tip" spade; both designed for better retention. It uses a screw for a positive connection. Not used on Mustangs thru at least 1969.
Pic 2 - a spade terminal. This style is what you are referring to. It is a push on, in this case a female terminal on a wire onto a male terminal used for a better ground.
Note: Spade lugs were not approved for Military or NASA applications at least thru the 80's.
Jim

Picture number is what I would call a Fork lug.

[midlife]

jwc66K / MidLife / Jim - have you or anyone else ever heard of a source and/or method to recreate the rubber block terminals used in `66 Fords (and/or other years)?

Referring to the picture below, I'm looking to create a factory-type black terminal (preferably rubber block/yoke type, somewhat similar to the dual black/yellow lead) for the heavy red lead on the power side of the solenoid.  Currently it has a modern yellow jacket.  Please disregard the black wire with yellow jacket which has since been removed. 

This heavy red wire goes from the solenoid around the fenderwell along the top of the firewall through to the junction block inside the passenger compartment.

Not I, as I have not seen that type of molded connector on any Ford product that has come across my workbench.  I cannot create or fabricate any molded connectors, as the machines to do so are fairly large in size, but can be obtained for a reasonable amount of money used.  That capability is something I would love to have, but it simply would not be cost-effective for my business.

[jwc66k]

Picture number is what I would call a Fork lug.

I almost always use Military Item Identification per the H6 Handbook for item descriptions. To me, it's a spade lug. I spent a lot of years in Military Logistics so it comes natural.
Jim

[66SevenLitre]

Not I, as I have not seen that type of molded connector on any Ford product that has come across my workbench.  I cannot create or fabricate any molded connectors, as the machines to do so are fairly large in size, but can be obtained for a reasonable amount of money used.  That capability is something I would love to have, but it simply would not be cost-effective for my business.

Midlife - thanks for your feedback.  I was wondering if that was the case.  It's not hard to see how these rubber block terminals we made using some kind of special process.  A machine makes perfect sense.  For folks like us there's no east way to separate the end or cut it open and re-use. 

Understand your point about cost effectiveness, especially if those machines are big.  I will continue digging around to see if there's some kind of alternative process.  I've been amazed at how much technology has opened new doors while restoring my car ... stuff like 3D printers, vinyl overlays, new coatings, etc.  Not saying I'll find anything but if I do, I'll share it here.  Anyhow thanks again for your input.   

[66SevenLitre]

For Midlife and anyone else ... just thought I'd share this. 

It's from SpliSeal and a way to make hard rubber molded insulators/terminals that are somewhat similar to what Ford made on wire harnesses. 

If you look at the picture, it's a double mold.  On the top is mold for a hanger connection and the bottom for a ring terminal.  The first step is to put your wire in the mold.  For instance, if you want a hard rubber block around your ring terminal, you put the bottom half of the terminal, where the wire is crimped, in the mold.  Second step is to fill the mold with 'sealant' using a heated glue gun.  Then last you open the mold and cut off residue. 

Here is a video.  Skip ahead to the 30-second mark -

Of course these molds have the brand name "SpliSeal" embedded in them.  Obviously that doesn't appeal to us Concours folks.  But it does raise a few thoughts.  For instance, what if the original rubber block molded terminals could be copied by a 3D printer?  That could be done cheap.  If so, new molds similar to could be created which follow the same approach as SpliSeal.  All you do is inject the rubber 'sealant'.     

[jwc66k]

. . what if the original rubber block molded terminals could be copied by a 3D printer?     

My neighbor has a 3D printer (actually two - hey, it is Silicon Valley) and so far all the printed stuff is plastic, as in the same type plastic used in plastic forks and spoons (ok, similar - reference only). But I will ask.
Jim

[jwc66k]

. . what if the original rubber block molded terminals could be copied by a 3D printer? 

Yes and no.
Scanning will not get the internal details, plus the external tolerances are not that good. The item dimensions would have to be manually entered into a CAD system.
Current methods do not exist to insert a wired contact into a flexible rubber insulated boot (see pic 1). The sample shown has the wires and connectors injected molded in place. The "rubber like" material exists but the liquid 3D printing does not allow an object to be inserted during printing.
Current materials may not withstand high temperatures (see pic 2. This is the connector for the headlight switch). Headlight switches generate a lot of heat.
Current materials may not be able to duplicate Bakelite's ability to bend and latch (see pics 3 and 4).
In other words, wait a couple of years.
Jim

[midlife]

I had someone try to 3-D print the 3 pin door jamb connector for 70-73 driver's side.  He had access to the latest printers and materials at his place of work (he did this on the side to see what could be done for us hobbyists), and the result was very disappointing.  The tolerance was off, the finish was too rough, and it simply did not fit.  Injection molding is THE way to go for these types of things.  It's been around for 50+ years and is very good for its application.  I was told that the machines to do this can be bought used for reasonable prices (I suspect < $10k), but they are large.  With the various colored injection plastics and such, one has to run an awful lot of parts to recoup your investment. 

I do like the previous post about hand injecting the molding over a splice (www.spliseal.com).  They only make molds for butt splices and ring connectors, not for bullet connectors.  That raises the question: I've never seen the guts of the bullet connectors (prior to molding) available on any electronics site.  Somebody must make them, as trailer connectors are still being manufactured using the same technology.

[196667Bob]

It seems as this thread I covering a multitude of wiring related items, and may end up being split up in order to cover each more in depth. For now, I will address a solution to the question in regard to connectors, terminal ends, etc. ; where to get, or how to make. For quite a few years, I have used an individual from Bend, OR, for many of my wiring needs on my Retractables, 57 T-Bird, and most recently for my 1967 Mustang. His name is Chris Olsen. Chris owns a large Electrical Supply/Contracting Company (Bauer Electric) in Bend, and thus has access to major equipment used to make molded connectors. Of course the Electric Company is his main business, but luckily he is also a hobbyist, and as such has a smaller company, Class Tech Wire. Of course, being his "minor" company, sometimes it takes several weeks to get what you need. However, the quality and price make it worth the wait. While Chris does have some harnesses in stock, or drawings with which to make them, it seems that I always need something that hasn't been reproduced by Chris, or others. In a case like this, it's best to send an original sample (even if you have to borrow an original from a friend). The last two items I had Chris make for my '67 fell into this category. First was the wire from the Distributor to the coil for early 67's. At the time, and possibly still, only the later type that attaches to the coil with a nut, was available. I sent along my brittle original as a sample (pictures attached). The second was a little tougher ; it was the light socket harness for a non-console Safety Convenience system. For this. I borrowed an original harness and sent Chris also 3 sets of colored light sockets that I had picked up over the years, and had him make me 3 "Repo" sets with connectors (pictures attached). As you can see by these examples, the quality is excellent. With product like this available, who would want to try to "make something close" ?

Bob

[midlife]

Very nice!!!

[67gtasanjose]

...The last two items I had Chris make for my '67 fell into this category. First was the wire from the Distributor to the coil for early 67's. At the time, and possibly still, only the later type that attaches to the coil with a nut, was available. I sent along my brittle original as a sample (pictures attached). The second was a little tougher ; it was the light socket harness for a non-console Safety Convenience system. For this. I borrowed an original harness and sent Chris also 3 sets of colored light sockets that I had picked up over the years, and had him make me 3 "Repo" sets with connectors (pictures attached). As you can see by these examples, the quality is excellent. With product like this available, who would want to try to "make something close" ...

I think I may need to talk with this guy "Chris"!

[66SevenLitre]

To Bob - thanks for providing the info and pictures.  Chris Olsen does outstanding work.  It's hard to find sources which can do this level of work and for it to be factory correct.  Tip my hat to Chris. 

One area I'm still curious about is if there's a way to come up with rubber block-type terminals which can be applied to harnesses already installed in the car.  For instance, let's say someone added a non-factory connector (which is necessary), or a repair was done and non-standard terminals were used.  In this case, the incorrect terminals/connectors need to be replaced with factory correct ones.  However, removing the entire harness isn't practical. 

The SpliSeal approach is pretty interesting because you simply buy the mold, then lay your wire down before closing the mold and injecting hot sealant with a glue gun.  This enables you to make rubber blocks around ring, spade and other terminals, barrels, etc.  However, the SpliSeal mold has a logo embedded into it which we don't want.  So it got me wondering about alternatives ....   

One possibility is Versimold.  https://www.versimold.com/

Basically this stuff is soft rubber which you mold into the shape you want before heating it cure (250 degrees).  Once cured, it becomes firm hardened rubber.  Heating can be done with a heat gun, hair dryer or by placing in boiling water.  Challenge here is that molding these terminals/connectors by hand isn't practical.  They'll never come out perfect.  What's needed is a mold of the rubber block connector/terminal you're trying to re-create the shape. 

There are ways to make molds with Polyurethane which is really quite fascinating.  Basically you can make just about anything.  Take a look at the videos below (I'm in no way associated with BJB, they just have good comprehensive videos which explain):




Still, the problem here is you need a good vacuum system (28-29Hg pull/ 5-6cfm flow) to remove the air bubbles from the material.  But understandably that cost less than the injection molding machine Midlife mentioned.  Still, doesn't look practical for a few home uses.   

That led me to look at other ways to make a mold.  One option is air-dry clay.  Clay can be formed by hand, molded, shaped, imprinted or what not, then it air dries to hardness.  Seems like a good solution.  So I'm thinking of experimenting with Versimold and air-dry clay.   

What I would do is form a block of clay, set the terminal (wire and all) on top and press halfway in.  Then I'll then flatten the surface around the edges.  Idea will be to make the first half of the mold.  After removing the terminal from the clay, I'll inspect for imperfections.  I'll have to be sure the mold takes into account where the ring or spade terminal, if applicable, will protrude from the rubber block. 

Once the first half of the mold is dry, I'll make the second half starting with setting the the terminal back into the mold and adding more clay on top.  Then I'll shape into a block to match the bottom half.  After removing the top half carefully, again I'll inspect for imperfections and account for the terminal end. 

After the two molds are dry, I can shape some Versimold around the ring/spade/whatever terminal before setting into one half of the mold.  I would need to be sure there is enough Versimold to fill the mold completely.  Then I'd put the second half of the mold on top and press.  Next I'd take the top half off and remove any excess material.  If all looks well, I'll remove the terminal from the bottom mold and then heat it with a hair dryer or heat gun. 

If I've done everything carefully, including covering/protecting the car and all surfaces, I will have been able to recreate the molded terminals right on the car, without removing the harness. 

I have the Versimold, next I'm going to get the air dry clay (or whatever is best), then experiment on an old harness.  I'll let everyone know how it works out.