Topic: Thermactor Installation 1968 S-Code

[TonyH]

Looking for some recommendations on how to install the thermactor system in a 1968 S-Code built in San Jose.  Build date was 2/23 and the car is a 4-speed w/o air.  Goal for the car is a concourse driven build.

I've managed to round up a complete thermactor system and have a set of both the dummy ferrules and operational ferrules.  I'm looking for recommendations on concerns with hooking the system up in either config.

Right now, I'm leaning toward the dummy ferrules due to the engine running really well right now and my reluctance to introducing a potential problem.

Appreciate any thoughts...thanks!

v/r
Tony

[Bob Gaines]

Looking for some recommendations on how to install the thermactor system in a 1968 S-Code built in San Jose.  Build date was 2/23 and the car is a 4-speed w/o air.  Goal for the car is a concourse driven build.

I've managed to round up a complete thermactor system and have a set of both the dummy ferrules and operational ferrules.  I'm looking for recommendations on concerns with hooking the system up in either config.

Right now, I'm leaning toward the dummy ferrules due to the engine running really well right now and my reluctance to introducing a potential problem.

Appreciate any thoughts...thanks!

v/r
Tony

It is pretty straight forward with not many "tricks" to add much over what a clear picture will show in relation to clamp placement etc. The tubes are the hardest part to install IMO. With the dummy ferrules blocking the air supply, the air pump needs to be rendered a dummy also or you will have a back up of air and blow hoses etc. Back in the 80's when I first got the inclination to start restoring cars back original over personalizing we would make dummy ferrules by brazing the bottom side shut so that the tubes would slid into the fitting BUT we could remove the tubes out of the way quickly and easily for sparkplug removal. We would also gut the vacuum advance distributor and make it manual advance with a duel point plate. A no drag smog and a faster advance curve made for some very noticeable acceleration . I wouldn't go to the trouble to mess with the distributor now days because I have a late model to jump into if I want increased acceleration.

[Bob Gaines]

If you decide to make the pump a dummy the only way I know is to break the internal Masonite type blades and remove the pieces. It would be a shame to have to do that to a fully functioning pump . Back when I used to do it the cores were more readily available and most of them were frozen up and already broken inside anyway. Hopefully someone else has a better way to render it a free wheeling dummy.

[TonyH]

Thanks Bob, that was my next question.  I haven’t broken into the pump yet so was wondering if there was a clean way to disable it. 

[preaction]

The blades are replaceable due to it being a wear or consumable item, IIRC there is a row of screws to clamp new blades in place.

[67gtasanjose]

Looking for some recommendations on how to install the thermactor system in a 1968 S-Code built in San Jose.  Build date was 2/23 and the car is a 4-speed w/o air.  Goal for the car is a concourse driven build.

I've managed to round up a complete thermactor system and have a set of both the dummy ferrules and operational ferrules.  I'm looking for recommendations on concerns with hooking the system up in either config.

Right now, I'm leaning toward the dummy ferrules due to the engine running really well right now and my reluctance to introducing a potential problem.

Appreciate any thoughts...thanks!

v/r
Tony

Another aspect in FAVOR of such a decision (on a vehicle WITHOUT a cat converter), is your exhaust system and manifolds would run at a MUCH COOLER temperature, therefore retaining your restored-looking parts longer/better for a driven vehicle.
The design, from an engineering aspect, is the introduction of air being injected into the exhaust system is intended to INCREASE exhaust temperatures (like blowing on the hot coals of a campfire, so-to-speak). The hotter the exhaust, the more hydrocarbons (un-burned fuel) getting burned off. The air management valve (Diverter valve) prevents the air injection during idle conditions and deceleration conditions to prevent the ignition of these hydrocarbons within the exhaust pipes. If you neuter the air pump and the ferrules you may as well also neuter the Diverter valve (ball bearing in the hose is a usual way). I haven't looked into it yet but I understand the bearings used on many smog pumps is the same as what was used on alternators so a person could convert the pump into an idler pulley of sorts.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Later years with catalytic converters require the added air to get the job done so I would not at all recommend this modification to those cars, this would cause a huge problem with damage to your converter(s). You may also run into local laws that perform emmission testing upon vehicle sales or the likes. Be advised that local, state and federal laws do not generally allow for such changes to emmission control devices and these items may need reverted back into operational condition. I personally would not modify such things without retaining a way to un-do the modifications.   

[TonyH]

Great point.  I hadn't thought about the downstream effects of the heat gain.  I'll pop the pump open tonight and pull the blades. 

[TonyH]

Popped the back cover on the smog pump and it doesn’t look like a quick fix to pull the blades.  Didn’t have much time to mess with it but it looks like you have to pull the front of the pump and press out the shaft.  Not sure I want to mess with the front end since the plastic vanes are in good shape and they break easily.

[67gtasanjose]

Popped the back cover on the smog pump and it doesn’t look like a quick fix to pull the blades.  Didn’t have much time to mess with it but it looks like you have to pull the front of the pump and press out the shaft.  Not sure I want to mess with the front end since the plastic vanes are in good shape and they break easily.

The 68 pumps should be fairly easy to locate and I recall replacement fans available somewhere (never needed one yet so I didn't pay attention to 'where').
Perhaps locating a spare pump to work on might be of interest if you wish to neuter your A.I.R. system. As I said, if I were to consider this, I certainly would retain my original pump and I would NOT be modifying it but another 'spare' pump, wouldn't hold as much value to me so that is where I would consider it.
As I said, the benefit here would simply be for making it easier to retain my restored finishes, this IF AND ONLY IF I intended to drive it. A trailered car, it would not make good sense to do this IMHO. Momentary start-ups and idle-speed conditions, would not make any heating changes to your manifolds...the heat is added while DRIVING, accelerating & part-throttle conditions mostly...

[rockhouse66]

Please don't break the vanes!  Assuming this is the later pump with the 3 bolt pulley hub, I could really use the internals for my rebuild work.  If you send me your pump, I will remove the vanes (and keep them) and return the pump to you no charge.

You don't have to press the rotor out of the front bearing.  I have a technique for pulling the back plate on the rotor (where the rear bearing sits) to remove the vanes and all the loose parts like the carbon seals and leaf springs.