Topic: Removal of undercoating - Any advice?

[Morsel]

Well, I'm about to start the horrible job of removing all the undercoating from the rear end of my car. We did the front end up to the beginning of the transmission tunnel when we did the front end. So I'm wondering what people have had luck using and their processes. I've read some crazy things, but it might just be what's needed.

Basically the car is on jack stands and everything has basically been removed from the car except the transmission (which probably will be coming out as well). So now it's time to start the awful job of sitting on my back and doing it. Looking for advice, I'll be using a plastic scraper at first just to get some of the easy chunks off and see what's under the undercoating, but what type of solvents or other processes have people used to really clean it well?

I have a feeling it will be going into the body shop and getting repainted in the end no matter what, or at least some major touch ups because of the frame rail straightening they are going to be doing anyway, so it will probably just get a fresh coat unless my original redox is prime condition...

Thanks,

Jason

[CharlesTurner]

Seems like I remember this being discussed before.  Some of the methods... WD-40, solvents, simple green, kerosene, gasoline...

[jwc66k]

Add to the list of tools to use: screwdriver; scraper; wire brush; chisel. It ain't easy.
DO NOT USE ACETONE. It's deadly.
Jim

[KevinK]

If you stay away from the solvents, you might want to try a heat gun and a stiff scraper. I have not tried it.

[Bossbill]

If you wish to leave this planet early be sure to use gasoline. Gasoline liquid doesn't blow up -- but the vapors make big, big boom.

With any solvent product make sure you have lots of ventilation and don't do this in a shop with any spark or flame source near the ground, where the vapors collect. You wonder why gas hot water heaters are raised off of the floor?

A good way to remove the large chunks is with a heat gun and a plastic scraper. If you use a metal scrapper you can remove the floor primer underneath. Remove as much as you can with the heat.

I've used lacquer thinner and rags on the remainder using two box fans, nitrile gloves, respirator and a water container into which I place used rags.

If you want to try a less nasty smelling way, Citristrip will remove thin layers of undercoat. It does require a water rinse.

Finally, if you really want to go aggressive, I've actually used a grinder with a knotted wire brush. It really slings the goobers around and you need to be dressed like you are working with grunge -- you are.

 

[Morsel]

Thanks everyone for the responses, it's going to be a messy job and take a while, but someones got to do it, I guess that's me... I'll let you know what I uncover and what works best as the process goes on...

Thanks,

Jason

[67gta289]

I searched for the word "kerosene" and found these:

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=14158.msg88068#msg88068

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=4281.msg23665#msg23665

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=4231.msg23528#msg23528

[91saleen26]

I use a map gas torch and then a plastic scraper. Then a nylon brush to ooosen everything up and a microfiber cloth. Works really nice.

[jmlay]

Be cautious as old undercoating may contail asbestos!!!

[Morsel]

Be cautious as old undercoating may contail asbestos!!!

Thanks for the warning, be wearing a mask for sure and long sleeves anyway, haha.

Thanks,

Jason

[J_Speegle]

Be cautious as old undercoating may contail asbestos!!!

Sound deadener from the 60's does

[Fvike]

A late reply here, but perhaps to use for someone anyway...

I soaked the undercoating in petroleum-based degreaser to soften it up, then used a larger heater to warm up the area I wanted to work on. The undercoating came of easy with a scrape. Huge bulks of it would come loose. After that, I washed away the leftover stuff with degreaser and a rag.





This very time-consuming method left a very clean, and if you're careful, undamaged surface. I did get some scrapes in the wheel wells because of the tool I was using, and the curved panels. But features like the factory body dolly marks are clearly visible.

[1969 Cale II]

Wow, look at all that paint detail hidden under all that gunk