Topic: 69 390 Driver Exhaust Manifold Removal

[G Wood]

I have a small exhaust leak on my driver side manifold. Is it possible to remove the manifold without lifting the engine up a few inches? Any advice is welcome as would prefer not to have to lift the engine.

[J_Speegle]

Never tried it but think its possible but you run the risk of problems. Not going to be pretty or easy, especially lining up access to those center exhaust manifold bolt heads.

At least there is no Thermactor to get in the way for that application. Good luck with which every method you choose
Maybe some here has does it - lets see

[G Wood]

Thanks Jeff, ultimately I think that I will need to lift the engine but was hoping for another solution from someone that may have encountered the same issue.

[Bob Gaines]

I have a small exhaust leak on my driver side manifold. Is it possible to remove the manifold without lifting the engine up a few inches? Any advice is welcome as would prefer not to have to lift the engine.

The short answer is no.You need to disconnect the exhaust and lift the engine to get at stubborn bolts and the allow access to wrangle the manifolds out after lifting  up the engine. Be sure to use something like a wide 2X8 with a shop towel under the oil pan so that you don't dent it and shop towel protects the paint if it is nice . Keep a eye on the radiator fan lifting up too close to the fan shroud. You may have to disconnect it from the radiator.You don't have to take it out just disconnect it.It depends on how high you lift your engine. I disconnect one side at a time that way when lifting the engine tilts away from the shock tower more then lifting straight up Take the manifolds to a machine shop and have them surfaced . It is the same procedure as when they surface a flywheel. That will get them flat . Not suggested but in a pinch (Like on a weekend that you don't want to wait for a machine shop) you can take the manifolds and slide them over a concrete driveway in a circular motion (like a grinding table)  until the manifold surface is ground nice and shiny . I smear a thin coat of high temp silicone around the opening before mounting . Ford didn't use gaskets so don't be fooled with what comes in gasket kits. I can pick off and silicone that squeezes out for a original look. Even if I didn't care about a original look I wouldn't use gaskets. I have done this more times then I care to remember and like to do it as efficiently as possible so I can put it in the past.Just what has worked for me .Others may have a different way.

[J_Speegle]

While we're on the subject documents from Ford related to engine assembly indicate that at some point Ford was using graphite between the exhaust manifold and head to reduce the chance of leakage and fill any very small voids.

Did this on the last engine I built. No leaks yet 

[G Wood]

Bob - I appreciate the details that you have passed along but want to clarify a few things if I am concentrating on the driver side only. You mention an 2x8 under the oil pan, does this mean that you are jacking up the engine instead of using a engine hoist (cherry picker)? If using that method, what do I need to disconnect for a 4 speed car. Zbar needs to come out but do I also need to disconnect the shift linkage etc (after loosening trans from mount) or if I am tilting the engine a few inches should be ok?

Carb linkage and other top side items may be obvious once I get into it but if you have done this in past would appreciate any other words of wisdom.

[Bob Gaines]

Bob - I appreciate the details that you have passed along but want to clarify a few things if I am concentrating on the driver side only. You mention an 2x8 under the oil pan, does this mean that you are jacking up the engine instead of using a engine hoist (cherry picker)? If using that method, what do I need to disconnect for a 4 speed car. Zbar needs to come out but do I also need to disconnect the shift linkage etc (after loosening trans from mount) or if I am tilting the engine a few inches should be ok?

Carb linkage and other top side items may be obvious once I get into it but if you have done this in past would appreciate any other words of wisdom.

It is fine to use a cherry picker but I typically choose not to in a situation such as this because it requires more time disconnecting carburetor and attaching.Sometimes it may require hood removal too depending on picker. I jack up the engine using the safe guards mentioned.  It is a given that you have to pull the motor mount bolt on the side you are working on at the time. You would need the z bar out of the way the rest can stay connected. You will not be jacking engine up that far. P.S. not entirely necessary but it helps to have the valve cover off too for extra work clearance.

[427Fastback]

Picture tells me its a 69 390 Car and its not concours.How Ford did it is not important.I agree on having the manifold surfaced but that's only one half of the sealing surface.Depending on how long it has been leaking the head may need surfacing as well.You may spend two days fixing it only to have it blow the silicone out in two weeks and be leaking again.Silicone is a short term band aid when it comes to exhaust.

I would simply yank the engine out.It will take less time (and pain) that trying to fix it in the car.Chances are some of the top bolts are sized or will break..Then what .4spd cars are a pain I understand that....
McCord makes a really nice proper exhaust manifold gasket for your application.Not header gasket stuff.I am not saying to use them but if the head is damaged you only have two options.

I am a machine fitter by trade and in no way apposed to a gasket less surface but things have to be right.At least if the engine is out you can draw file the cyl head.
I am not one for taking chances or gambling.....JMO....Cory

[J_Speegle]

Picture tells me its a 69 390 Car and its not concours.........

The pictures are not of the OP car. Just thought I would mention that