Topic: Process used to restore my original two piece Kelsey Hayes Rotors

[67gtasanjose]

I am in the process of restoring my KH rotors using this process.  I had the studs pressed out today and removed the seals, races and bearings.  Should I replace these parts with a specific brand other than what is sold at a Auto Zone or Oreilly's? 

I plan on using sand to blast my KH rotors.  Is sand to coarse for this job?

The OP uses a grayish color to paint his rotors.  Is this the concours correct?  Wouldn't it have been bare metal?  If so, why not clean up the rotors really well and put a micro oil on the non-brake surfaces to protect from rusting?   

Minimum Thickness:  Rotors say .780 is minimum.  Had mine measured at .825.  Hopefully I won't need to turn them.

FWIW, it looks like you have the typically found service replacement rotors (not the original K/H rotors). I do not see the "tells" in your images, that they are originals. Yes, they are the 2-piece variety so that is good.

I say this because given that fact alone, it would almost seem better (in my opinion) to go ahead and paint them for protection (if you plan to drive the car) since they do not pass muster for a concours level or thoroughbred anyways. Again, just my take on what I see. Others may have different perspective than I do. Paint is usually easier to remove than rust if you ever wish to return to original cast at a later date or work the car towards a more detailed class in judging.

[Bob Gaines]

FWIW, it looks like you have the typically found service replacement rotors (not the original K/H rotors). I do not see the "tells" in your images, that they are originals. Yes, they are the 2-piece variety so that is good.

I say this because given that fact alone, it would almost seem better (in my opinion) to go ahead and paint them for protection (if you plan to drive the car) since they do not pass muster for a concours level or thoroughbred anyways. Again, just my take on what I see. Others may have different perspective than I do. Paint is usually easier to remove than rust if you ever wish to return to original cast at a later date or work the car towards a more detailed class in judging.

I will have to disagree. The two piece design will typically pass muster in trailered concours if refinished and detailed properly. Thoroughbred no ,trailered concours yes IMO. The 2 piece design is what is mainly visible underneath and consequently what is used as a yardstick compared to the one piece replacement. Other details if observed that don't compare to assemblyline may warrant a mention . At least that is my opinion.

[CharlesTurner]

Agree with Bob.  In concours, I'd be looking for a 2 piece rotor for authenticity and then checking condition/cleanliness.  For Thoroughbred, they would need to be assembly line with correct flues, machined and bare metal finishes.

[67gtasanjose]

Apologies for misinformation. I am surprised this detail is allowable when other similar details are scrutinized. My "default setting" must be more or less 'Thoroughbred' at this site and my opinions seem to be higher than what judging requires on the different (MCA) classes. My point was along the lines of painting verses not painting surfaces in relation to how it appears, as compared to assemblyline items. I like the protection of paint but personally much more impressed with the finer details of maintaining the original finishes. Again...apologies.

[CharlesTurner]

No apologies needed, it's always better to set your standards higher than any judging rules.

[J_Speegle]

Apologies for misinformation. I am surprised this detail is allowable when other similar details are scrutinized. My "default setting" must be more or less 'Thoroughbred' at this site and my opinions seem to be higher than what judging requires on the different (MCA) classes. .............

Yes that is always an issue with just focusing on judging since different people will place different values on different details and why we normally keep those discussions in a different section of the site. Much easier to focus on how the cars were built IMHO - makes the answers easier since there is a better defined measuring tool than to try and hit what at some times seems like a moving target. Judges and just observers of your finished product should have an issue with as the car was built        Don't want to get too far in the weeds on judging practices, tendencies, human nature, and so on and get off point in this thread

[Bossbill]

I plan on using sand to blast my KH rotors.  Is sand to coarse for this job?

Healthwise, sand is the worst thing to use.

Breathing crystalline silica ranks right up there with asbestos.

[amishtechnology]

Also, do not sandblast any parts, it will totally ruin the surface and open up the metal pores.  Use glass bead or comparable.  Just be careful of media with free silicas.

Charles: Can you elaborate on the risk from sandblasting? Are you talking about the surface of the rotor in particular? And would you have any concerns about sandblasting if they’re going to be turned anyway? Thanks.

[Bossbill]

Apologies for misinformation. I am surprised this detail is allowable when other similar details are scrutinized. My "default setting" must be more or less 'Thoroughbred' at this site and my opinions seem to be higher than what judging requires on the different (MCA) classes. My point was along the lines of painting verses not painting surfaces in relation to how it appears, as compared to assemblyline items. I like the protection of paint but personally much more impressed with the finer details of maintaining the original finishes. Again...apologies.

Richard -- I agree with you, but as stated, it's a personal decision as how far down the thouroughbred trail you go.
I've decided to go down the trail of all original finishes as well, but it adds a lot of time, is more difficult to do and is much harder to maintain -- especially if driven.

I think it's important that the differences be discussed.

Either way, nice job.