Topic: Correct paint for suspension components, transmission cross brace etc..66 NJ K

[CharlesTurner]

Try using evapo-rust, has been discussed here on the forum previously.  Works well at removing all rust and turning up any markings. 

[J_Speegle]

Thank you all for the comments.  This site has been very helpful and I am grateful! 
 

Remember to redo the fresh machined surfaces. Example would be the spindle. Visible one the car is assembled will be the ball joint attachment, bump stop and the tie rod attachment surfaces. Not certain at the moment if the surfaces where the caliper mount or backing plate bolts pass through are visible. There is typically a spot where the finish will have been ground down and the metal tested so that would be brighter there also

Though its from a different year there is one attempt to reproduce the differences in finish

[evantugby]

Oh wow!  Well I need to do that.  What method are people using to recreate these machine surfaced finishes? 

[CharlesTurner]

To quickly get the metal clean, roto-discs on a die grinder work well, then followed by a level block sander or stick.

[evantugby]

To quickly get the metal clean, roto-discs on a die grinder work well, then followed by a level block sander or stick.

how about this?  haha.  Just went out to the garage and did it.  Never used a level block sander.  Can you provide a recommendation?

[CharlesTurner]

The issue with using a die grinder by itself is it will create inconsistent patterns and possibly round edges.  Doing a final sand with something flat will give a more correct, 'freshly cut' appearance.

[J_Speegle]

The issue with using a die grinder by itself is it will create inconsistent patterns and possibly round edges.  Doing a final sand with something flat will give a more correct, 'freshly cut' appearance.

++1 Without the final step it will be notably different from what was originally done

[evantugby]

which level block sander are you using?  I want to make sure I get this right.  I'm enjoying this restoration process and learning a great deal from you experts!

[CharlesTurner]

Just something flat to wrap sandpaper around is fine, it's nothing technical.  Paint sticks work well.

[evantugby]

Gents,
Follow-up question:  How about the rear backing plates?  I have them completely sand blasted.  Do they get a semi-gloss black like the front backing plates? 

Also, do these backing plates look original?  Both have FOMOCO but  one says Bendix 17564L and the other is so lightly stamped I can't read it. 

[carlite65]

yes they are s/g black. look a little pitted though. have you seen charles turner's blog regarding a hi-poo he did several years ago?

[ChrisV289]

Did you find any white slash marks near the adjustment hole?  Don't know if it was just a San Jose thing or if the other plants did them

[J_Speegle]

Did you find any white slash marks near the adjustment hole?  Don't know if it was just a San Jose thing or if the other plants did them

These may be different size plates (different size rear brakes) different backing plates from what your working with Chris.

Also its not always that marking and not a San Jose detail IMHO.

We could get off into a complete thread on backing plates so will not go into greater detail here about 66 examples and the differences between cars and applications 

[CharlesTurner]

Yes, lots of pitting there.  Would suggest epoxy prime both of them, let it dry and then tape over the FoMoCo and Bendix markings.  Cut as close to the markings as possible.  Then use a quality build primer, sand, re-prime if necessary and then paint semi-gloss black.

[evantugby]

Yes, lots of pitting there.  Would suggest epoxy prime both of them, let it dry and then tape over the FoMoCo and Bendix markings.  Cut as close to the markings as possible.  Then use a quality build primer, sand, re-prime if necessary and then paint semi-gloss black.

Does powdercoat hide imperfections well?  Or would you still use epoxy primer?