Topic: Correct paint for suspension components, transmission cross brace etc..66 NJ K

[evantugby]

Hello Forum,
Gents,
I have a 1966 K-code fastback built 23 Oct 1965 at Metuchen. 
Need some expert guidance on what paint is the right color for the following components:

-tie rods
-steering linkage
-parking brake equalizer and equalizer lever
-transmission crossmember
-toploader transmission
-rear brake drums
-front calibers
-front brake dust shields
-Motor mounts
-bellhousing separator plate

Most of these parts have been media blasted and are currently bare metal. 

Thanks much!

[carlite65]

the following parts are NOT painted. suspension, transmission, brake drums, calipers. each has their own unique finish. again the library section will be your best reference. another thing, before you blast anything consider how it will affect the final finish. sometimes blasting is not the best way to clean used parts.

[J_Speegle]

There is no "correct paint" for much of your list and most were not painted originally and that is the focus here.

Hopefully your choice of cleaning methods or their prior condition (rust, damage...) does not preclude you being able to reuse the parts as carlite65 mentioned

-tie rods - Heat treated steel with stamped steel cover so three different finishes
-steering linkage- Heat treat steel with machined surfaces
-parking brake equalizer and equalizer lever- If you use the sreach feature there was a discussion of the finishes within the last two weeks
-toploader transmission - Bare cast iron steel with fresh machined surfaces and new stamped steel top cover - bare steel
-rear brake drums - Bare cast iron with fresh machined surfaces
-front calibers - Bare cast iron with fresh machined surfaces. Semi- gloss black pad retainers
-Motor mounts- Believe you should be early enough to have the 65 style so base cast iron with machined surfaces


-front brake dust shields - Semi-gloss black
-transmission crossmember -Semi- gloss black

- bellhousing separator plate- Bare new steel painted attached to the engine so engine blue along the upper and side edges, bare in the shadow of the block, blue along the face right behind the engine oil pan on the bottom section fading aware to almost or completely bare around much of the starter mating surface to insure a positive ground

[jwc66k]

the following parts are NOT painted. . . brake drums, . .   

Except (don't you just love exceptions) when a factory Style Steel Wheel was installed.

Need some expert guidance on what paint is the right color for the following components:
-tie rods
-steering linkage

Not painted as Jeff stated, but as these are heat treated, they will be dark (almost black), scaly (not too smooth) and oiled. In other words, don't bead blast and walk. The cover where the stud was inserted, should be cad (a reference, could be zinc) and the machined surfaces. When the grease boots are installed, you can't see the machining. See attached for the color/shade of a forged heat treated pair of center links.
Jim

[Bob Gaines]

Except (don't you just love exceptions) when a factory Style Steel Wheel was installed.Not painted as Jeff stated, but as these are heat treated, they will be dark (almost black), scaly (not too smooth) and oiled. In other words, don't bead blast and walk. The cover where the stud was inserted, should be cad (a reference, could be zinc) and the machined surfaces. When the grease boots are installed, you can't see the machining. See attached for the color/shade of a forged heat treated pair of center links.
Jim

To add if painted it was just the drum face and not painted completely . With a brush(you can see brush strokes).

[evantugby]

Thanks for the inputs gentlemen.  I'll upload pics when I'm done!  I'll get back to work!

[evantugby]

There is no "correct paint" for much of your list and most were not painted originally and that is the focus here.

Hopefully your choice of cleaning methods or their prior condition (rust, damage...) does not preclude you being able to reuse the parts as carlite65 mentioned

-tie rods - Heat treated steel with stamped steel cover so three different finishes
-steering linkage- Heat treat steel with machined surfaces
-parking brake equalizer and equalizer lever- If you use the sreach feature there was a discussion of the finishes within the last two weeks
-toploader transmission - Bare cast iron steel with fresh machined surfaces and new stamped steel top cover - bare steel
-rear brake drums - Bare cast iron with fresh machined surfaces
-front calibers - Bare cast iron with fresh machined surfaces. Semi- gloss black pad retainers
-Motor mounts- Believe you should be early enough to have the 65 style so base cast iron with machined surfaces


-front brake dust shields - Semi-gloss black
-transmission crossmember -Semi- gloss black

- bellhousing separator plate- Bare new steel painted attached to the engine so engine blue along the upper and side edges, bare in the shadow of the block, blue along the face right behind the engine oil pan on the bottom section fading aware to almost or completely bare around much of the starter mating surface to insure a positive ground

J Speegle,
Lots of great information here.  Where can I find more information on this and pictures?  I want to know how to replicate these component's finishes.

[evantugby]

Except (don't you just love exceptions) when a factory Style Steel Wheel was installed.Not painted as Jeff stated, but as these are heat treated, they will be dark (almost black), scaly (not too smooth) and oiled. In other words, don't bead blast and walk. The cover where the stud was inserted, should be cad (a reference, could be zinc) and the machined surfaces. When the grease boots are installed, you can't see the machining. See attached for the color/shade of a forged heat treated pair of center links.
Jim

Jim,
Where can I learn more about this process of heat treatments and oiling?  Do you have a link/reference? 

[carlite65]

have you checked the Library sections yet?? search is always your friend here.

[jwc66k]

Where can I learn more about this process of heat treatments and oiling?  Do you have a link/reference?

For this application, heat treatment is usually done when a steel part is made. It's involved, and you would need to have a large facility to do it. Think - a high tech blacksmith, it usually changes the chemical makeup of the part. Once a part is heat treated, that's it. What you want to do is closely replicate the final product.
Check out "Phosphating 101" in the library.
Jim

[J_Speegle]

Jim,
Where can I learn more about this process of heat treatments and oiling?  Do you have a link/reference?

If you go through a number of threads and articles you will find a number of ways to accomplish this. Different members often use different products and processes to accomplish the same final look

[evantugby]

There is no "correct paint" for much of your list and most were not painted originally and that is the focus here.

Hopefully your choice of cleaning methods or their prior condition (rust, damage...) does not preclude you being able to reuse the parts as carlite65 mentioned

-tie rods - Heat treated steel with stamped steel cover so three different finishes
-steering linkage- Heat treat steel with machined surfaces
-parking brake equalizer and equalizer lever- If you use the sreach feature there was a discussion of the finishes within the last two weeks
-toploader transmission - Bare cast iron steel with fresh machined surfaces and new stamped steel top cover - bare steel
-rear brake drums - Bare cast iron with fresh machined surfaces
-front calibers - Bare cast iron with fresh machined surfaces. Semi- gloss black pad retainers
-Motor mounts- Believe you should be early enough to have the 65 style so base cast iron with machined surfaces


-front brake dust shields - Semi-gloss black
-transmission crossmember -Semi- gloss black

- bellhousing separator plate- Bare new steel painted attached to the engine so engine blue along the upper and side edges, bare in the shadow of the block, blue along the face right behind the engine oil pan on the bottom section fading aware to almost or completely bare around much of the starter mating surface to insure a positive ground

J Speegle,
Do the strut rods on my kar get painted black?

[ChrisV289]

Strut rods should not be painted

[J_Speegle]

J Speegle,
Do the strut rods on my kar get painted black?

No they were not painted. They would be bare steel that had been hardened and oil quenched. So replicate the finish we describe as heat treated steel with a protecting oil/coating

[evantugby]

Thank you gentlemen.  I ended up blasting, bluing, steel wooling, oiling and finally wiping down the following:  front springs, steering linkage, tie rods, strut rods, spindles.  I did paint the sway bar and engine cross member in a semi-gloss black.  Overall I am happy with the results.  I ordered a set of paint pens in 15 multi-colors to replicate paint daubs and found numbers.

(FYI:  My rear pinion had a 307 number in pink on it.  My brake cylinder had a 1065 number on the bottom also) 

Thank you all for the comments.  This site has been very helpful and I am grateful!