Topic: 1970 Upper Control Arms

[1970 Snake]

Most sources I have reviewed agree that the original uppers control arms are bare metal (gray) color. My present budget is not allowing $1700 CAD plus, for rebuilding and detailing the original upper and lower control arms. Scott Drake only provides all black or black/gray upper arms which would match the lower black/gray.

I know this may be an odd question but here goes anyway. If I had to chose between the all black or black/gray which would be more correct for my 1970,  Sept 4, 1969 built Dearborn Mach1?

[J_Speegle]

Guess I'm a bit confused are you planning on restoring yours or buying reproductions ?

If your restoring your you will get to choose the finish as a rebuilder such as Marcus will build them to suit your needs or if you want to restore them and just send them out for rivets


Both all black and half back are just as incorrect as the other (guess you could go down the road of percentages of coverage of paint) but both will be viewed as having the incorrect finish.  Could always just strip the painted ones and refinish. Little cost at doing that if your worried about your budget.

[1970 Snake]

Yes am presently planning on use Scott Drake upper and lower control arms because yes the cost of restoration of my originals is presently not in the budget.
What color/finish would you suggest to replicate the bare metal finish as I am concerned about rusting over time.

[1970 Snake]

Jeff, I do have an NOS set of upper control arms service part # D50Z-3082-C, and assume these would be OK for use but would need refinishing I would think.
Again what would be your recommend for refinishing these for use on my car, please comment, Thanks

[J_Speegle]

What color/finish would you suggest to replicate the bare metal finish as I am concerned about rusting over time.

Would apply and use something like Boe-shield as mentioned in many of the threads. Painted parts almost always look painted especially ones like this example where there are a number of different tones, tints and machine marks that show up as different from one another on the same piece

Jeff, I do have an NOS set of upper control arms service part # D50Z-3082-C, and assume these would be OK for use but would need refinishing I would think.
Again what would be your recommend for refinishing these for use on my car, please comment, Thanks

Since the reproductions appear to have additional stampings into the metal indicating the provider/maker they would not IMHO be my first choice especially since you have some service replacements. In both cases you will have to remove the paint or E-coat  without producing a texture into or on the metal surface. From there I would burnish in some gun blueing repair fluid since you will not be removing the ball joints and pivot shaft and ends.  The work that out to a fairly even finish/look with brighter tones along the forming bends.  Recolor (darken) the rivets or pivot shaft and end bushings as needed them coat all the metal in the oil.

[Bob Gaines]

Jeff, I do have an NOS set of upper control arms service part # D50Z-3082-C, and assume these would be OK for use but would need refinishing I would think.
Again what would be your recommend for refinishing these for use on my car, please comment, Thanks

The gun blue finish that comes on some service upper and lower parts does not look like the bare metal parts that came on the assemblyline parts.  The gun blue type finish that the factory puts on some of the service parts can be fairly easily stripped of the finish to reveal the bare steel finish underneath without going to the extreme of changing the finish with bead blasting.  I use Eagle one wire wheel cleaner . It is a mild acid wash. You should use gloves if you haven't worked with this before because it will start to sting if left on bare skin very long.  Spray it on and it will foam up. It needs to be applied quickly and all over otherwise there will remain stains in the metal. It only needs to be on for 30 seconds to a minute before the coating comes off. Rinse with water. Temperature of the metal and or water will vary the time of the stripping process .The warmer the faster things happen.  If stains remain from incomplete stripping then redo process until it comes off and you have a even finish. Sometimes I use 0000 steel wool along with the wash to get rid of stubborn staining in the metal. If you leave it on too long the acid wash will start to remove the zinc plating from the boot trim rings etc . Be sure to thoroughly rinse with water to get rid of any remaining acid. Once you have the finish stripped off you will need to dry it good with a towel first before further force drying out crevices with compressed air . If you try to dry with forced air without towel drying first you risk a quick flash rust on the bare metal surface. Once dry you will have to coat with Boe Shield or like product otherwise the surface will quickly flash rust with humidity.  This is just the way I quickly strip the gun blue finish that some later service upper and lower control arms come from Ford. Others may have a different way.

[specialed]

snake  those  late service replacement d5 nos arms are stamped different on the ball joint ends (& will be seen when installed) & the type of metal is different than the 0riginal bare metal dooz uppers. I have 10 or so original dooz uppers from out west starting at $50.00 & up depending on condition if u want originals.  Back years ago i had over 400 upper & lower arms from many trips out west buying  rust-free  parts when there were still old cars in yards before they all got crushed years ago when scrap metal went up. I still have 100 or so arms left.

[1970 Snake]

Thanks for all the input guys, I am now thinking I need to rebuild some original upper control arms, of which I do have a really good rust free set. Will have to use Moog ball joints though not the same as the original two piece type, but seems like most are using. Getting the riveting done locally also is not an issue, its getting that diamond pattern on the rivet end that's the issue.

[tobkob]

Getting the riveting done locally also is not an issue, its getting that diamond pattern on the rivet end that's the issue.

You have to put the waffle pattern on the rivets using a special die when riveting the ball joints, not afterwards.

TOB

[J_Speegle]

You have to put the waffle pattern on the rivets using a special die when riveting the ball joints, not afterwards.

+1 You have to reform the top end of the rivet with the die with the waffle pattern as you press. Don't want to end up with the rivet only slightly expanded  with just a couple of waffle marks on the top end.  Believe there are a number of threads that show the finished/original rivets and personal experiences.