Topic: 66 Original Two Piece Rotor restoration

[Morsel]

Hey all, so I'm back at these now that the holidays are over. I have some original Kelsey Hayes two Piece rotors that I'm in the middle of restoring. Here's where I'm at, I've taken the studs out on both rotors, clean and soaked in evapo-rust, blasted after that and taking them in to have the hub surface machined clean. I've also photographed all positions for reassembly so the stay balanced.

The question I have is how should I go about the non machined cast iron surfaces? I've searched and found some discussions, but not really what I'm looking for. The studs I'm planning on gun bluing like I did all my suspension, but the actual cast parts I'm not sure what to do because of heat and such. I do drive the car, it's a concours driven car. At first I was just going to paint them cast color, but they look so good now that they've been cleaned up that I'm shying away from that and want to make them look good. I don't have the means to magnesium phosphate them and tumble them like someone suggested, so do I "lightly" blue them and then coat the heck out of them with boeshield and just hope for the best

If you do recommend that I paint them because of them being driving on, what paint best resembles cast iron and also would handle the heat?

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated....

Thanks as always,

Jason

[J_Speegle]

If you do recommend that I paint them because of them being driving on, what paint best resembles cast iron and also would handle the heat?

How about this. Try one or more of the suggested products that members have found works for their exhaust manifolds.

Find one that doesn't look painted (rattle can cast iron  and apply it only as much as needed or try one of the graphite methods. I any case these have been proven to handle some heat and still look like unpainted case iron. Inside the fins is going to be fun

Just a thought

[Bob Gaines]

I think there are many alternative rattle can paints to use. One that I think will work well in this situation is the eastwood manifold spray paint in the rattle can. FYI the painted cast iron parts would do well with a coating of the boeshield for extra protection just like the bare metal parts.

[rrenz]

VHT has a cast iron engine paint for high temperature applications. I drive my car often and try to protect any bare metal with paint when possible. Ive used it on leaf springs and other suspension parts. Sometimes you can't even see it going on its such a good match to some bare metals. I also sprayed my new brake drums and they look great. Its readily available at most auto parts stores.

[J_Speegle]

VHT has a cast iron engine paint for high temperature applications. I drive my car often and try to protect any bare metal with paint when possible. Ive used it on leaf springs and other suspension parts. Sometimes you can't even see it going on its such a good match to some bare metals. I also sprayed my new brake drums and they look great. Its readily available at most auto parts stores.

Not to be critical but for others considering the same applications the rear springs were originally darker than what you show in your picture. There would be much more contrast typically between the clamps, the springs and the cast brake drums.  It you're going to use rattle cans its often helpful to have a collection at your disposal to reduce the chance of mono-tome look that the catch an eye or two when someone looks at them. Spray each out on a test board so you can compare them and choose the closest to your need. In the past I found that using a couple of different products ( a clearer product over a base produced a more believable finished product. 

Oiling after also increases their longevity and improves the look

[rrenz]

Good Point. I do also keep eastwood brake gray and a aluminum type finish in stock as well for contrasts. I typically only go with natural finishes in the engine compartment and interior where I can easily maintain them. The humidity in Va is a killer.

[Bob Gaines]

Not to be critical but for others considering the same applications There would be much more contrast typically between the clamps, the springs and the the rear springs were originally darker than what you show in your picture. cast brake drums. It you're going to use rattle cans its often helpful to have a collection at your disposal to reduce the chance of mono-tome look that the catch an eye or two when someone looks at them. Spray each out on a test board so you can compare them and choose the closest to your need. In the past I found that using a couple of different products ( a clearer product over a base produced a more believable finished product. 

Oiling after also increases their longevity and improves the look

+1. Eastwood sells a rattle can"zinc phosphate paint" that is typically too dark for most thinks done in zinc phosphate but it is especially good in a close match of the normally dark heat treated spring steel of the rear leaf springs. That is if you are going the painted route.

[Morsel]

I think there are many alternative rattle can paints to use. One that I think will work well in this situation is the eastwood manifold spray paint in the rattle can. FYI the painted cast iron parts would do well with a coating of the boeshield for extra protection just like the bare metal parts.

Hey Bob & Jeff,

Thanks for this info, but are you talking about the Eastwood manifold paints, are you talking about their Eastwood "ceramic based" universal cast iron paint they have or the regular Eastwood high temp factory grey? See links???

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-ceramic-engine-paint-universal-cast-iron-quart.html

Or

http://www.eastwood.com/factory-gray-hi-temp-coating.html

Thanks in advance,

Jason

[Bob Gaines]

Hey Bob & Jeff,

Thanks for this info, but are you talking about the Eastwood manifold paints, are you talking about their Eastwood "ceramic based" universal cast iron paint they have or the regular Eastwood high temp factory grey? See links???

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-ceramic-engine-paint-universal-cast-iron-quart.html

Or

http://www.eastwood.com/factory-gray-hi-temp-coating.html

Thanks in advance,

Jason

I was referring  to http://www.eastwood.com/factory-gray-hi-temp-coating.html  .The rotors can get almost as hot as exhaust manifolds under certain conditions which is why I thought the manifold paint would work best.

[67350#1242]

I was referring  to http://www.eastwood.com/factory-gray-hi-temp-coating.html  .The rotors can get almost as hot as exhaust manifolds under certain conditions which is why I thought the manifold paint would work best.

I used this manifold paint when I redid my rotors and it seems to be working well so far.

[Morsel]

I was referring  to http://www.eastwood.com/factory-gray-hi-temp-coating.html  .The rotors can get almost as hot as exhaust manifolds under certain conditions which is why I thought the manifold paint would work best.

Thanks, this is what I thought I should use...

Thanks all for all the information, as always, very helpful

Jason

[Morsel]

I promised Bob I would post when completed, go to "Processes, Products and Techniques" to see pictures and my process for the restoration.

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=17393.0

Thanks everyone for all the help and answering my questions, they came out good looking I think

Jason