Topic: C4 shift shaft seal replacement

[Hipo giddyup]

 With my latest project, (1966 289 with C4), the shaft seal for the shifter looks to be leaking. I have purchased the new seal and o-ring but wanted to know how difficult this would be in replacing the seal. Looks like I'll be dropping the pan and removing the valve body to get the shaft out? Any tips or pointers would be gladly appreciated. Thanks!

[carlite65]

yes. drop pan & remove valve body. be careful upon reassembly in getting the shaft reinserted to the v/b. i've done a few of these & it is not difficult, just take your time.

[Hipo giddyup]

Thanks for the response Carlite. I was just worried about an oddball spring or gear popping out at me!! Always good to do some research before jumping right in! 

[carlite65]

kind of a messy job dropping the v/b. careful of the screw lengths they are different. don't be afraid to use plenty of brake cleaner & lint free towels. and dont forget the outer 'o' ring.

[67gtasanjose]

No springs or check balls fall out...rather straight forward job as others have said. Watch the linkages when re-installing the valve body, the passing linkage should have a "return spring" tension back, when it is in right. It has a "feels right" feel about it. Test the "feel" before taking the valve body down and familiarize yourself with it. I think you will see how to index the main select valve, but a few people have gotten these all the way together with the passing gear linkage out of place before (speaking from experience )

[Hipo giddyup]

 Yikes, I think I can handle it since I’ve done most everything else on these cars. Then again I am trying to get a quote from a very reliable automatic transmission shop locally. If they’re quite reasonable I’ll let the pros do it.  I forgot to mention I don’t have a lift so all of this will be done on my back which I’m not looking forward to.  I can always reassure my skills in the spring when I go to repaint the car myself. 

[6S280]

I did this exact repair myself for the first time last year. I concur with the advice from the others. I did mine with the car on jack stands. Did need a crows foot to get the nut on and off of the shifter shaft. While at it, I also replaced the O-ring on the dip stick tube. Good luck!

[Hipo giddyup]

So the trans shop quoted me $180 to change the seal, which of course includes filter and pan gasket and new fluid. I’m opting to do this myself and will reply back with the outcome. Hopefully adding a few pics as to what is involved.

[67gtasanjose]

So the trans shop quoted me $180 to change the seal, which of course includes filter and pan gasket and new fluid. I’m opting to do this myself and will reply back with the outcome. Hopefully adding a few pics as to what is involved.

Sounds like a quote of about $125 in labor. As a repair shop owner, this sounds like they are estimating approx. 1.5 Hrs., a reasonable quote for the job.

[Hipo giddyup]

This shop is very well liked in the area with great reviews. I've been thinking that $180.00 could fund other desirables I need on the car. Plus I'm getting a free educational class out of doing it myself. 

[67gtasanjose]

This shop is very well liked in the area with great reviews. I've been thinking that $180.00 could fund other desirables I need on the car. Plus I'm getting a free educational class out of doing it myself. 

No, you will spend in the neighborhood of $50 in parts, so $130 to spend elsewhere, more or less

[Hipo giddyup]

Ah-ha... but I was given 8 quarts of type F from my buddy who had the car before me. Only spent $9 for the gasket/ filter on Amazon. I also hope to have it done in under an hour. 

But I see where your going. Of course it could be hundreds  $$$ if I mess it up too!  Point taken

[carlite65]

you won't need all 8 qts. unless you also drain the t-converter. i would drain it all but that's just me.

[67gtasanjose]

you won't need all 8 qts. unless you also drain the t-converter. i would drain it all but that's just me.

+1

One of Ford's "Better Idea"s...the TC drain-plug that is. I usually drain it first, perhaps the night before or an hour before the rest of the job

[Hipo giddyup]

 Just closing the loop...

I got some time to perform this fix yesterday and it took me a few hours. This is do to me cleaning up parts, working on my back, and ultimately taking my time since its my first at doing this. It went pretty smooth and I didn't really have any issues. I will say it is difficult to get the new shaft seal in place due to the exhaust and closeness of the floorpan but was able to get it replaced by tapping it in with a small  hammer, tapping it with the side of the hammers head. The tricky part was also getting the valve body back in place. As mentioned you really need to pay attention and see how it looks as soon as you remove it (shift arm, downshift lever placement , etc..) I took it down twice just to make sure I had it in correctly and it seems it will go one way, which has  a good "feel" to it.
The shift shaft went in real snug so I have high hopes that the new seal will correct the leak. I made sure the pan edges were "flat" by using a small hammer on a flat piece of steel stock and making sure they were flat and true. All in all I was glad I got this completed and I hope nothing leaks from here on out!!! Not something I would want to do anytime soon but I've had worse projects.