Topic: 358352-S - J-Clip -

[67gtasanjose]

You can easily make one. There is another similar clip (sometimes two) used on 64-68 Mustangs behind the instrument panel to keep the wiring "neat". The part number for this clip is 370805-S100. It is also not documented (I'm working on it).
To make a 358352-S from 370805-S100:
- Strip the rubber off.
- Shorten it from a laid out flat of around 6 inches to about 2 3/8 inches.
- Drill out the hole from 0.225 inch (measured) to 0.343 inch, or a number "S" drill.
- Re-bend to the above drawing.
- Dip in black PlastiCoat, several layers.
Both clips are the same width and thickness.
Jim

The "easily make one" comment is truly accurate when you begin with VERY accurate measurements taken from an original piece including the overall length of the material strip (as you now have provided in this reply, thank you).

A side-by-side comparison is probably the only way to confirm the accuracy of any "drawing" of such hardware. I add this comment because there are items sketched out in Ford "drawings" (and assembly manuals) that do not  always appear the same or at times measure the same as what was actually found on the vehicles we are restoring. I just experienced this recently when duplicating a similar strap that I had been unsuccessful at finding an original one. Had I followed only the hardware information found in Ford documents, it would not have produced a same-looking part. Also, the Ford provided information did not include the overall length of the metal strip, the length before shaping the item, they often only provide the "finished item" dimensions, leaving more calculations that 'simple minds' like myself, struggle to calculate.

[jwc66k]

The "easily make one" comment is truly accurate when you begin with VERY accurate measurements taken from an original piece including the overall length of the material strip (as you now have provided in this reply, thank you).

A draftsman does not provide the cut length, it's the function of the machinist doing the layout (included is the "K" factor, metal stretching). I added the measurement as an afterthought, reluctantly, measuring the actual sample part, and from the drawing as a sanity check. What you did point out, inadvertently, was the thickness of the rubber, or substitute PlastiCoat, is missing from my drawing. It will be added, from measurements of an original piece (including "drips").
As to "VERY accurate measurements", after the part is made, it is covered with rubber. Measurements have an addition tolerance, the rubber cover. An educated guess would indicate that the finished part was dropped into a container with many others. I bet it subjected to outside forces that probably bent, twisted or otherwise adjusted it far away from the original "VERY accurate measurements", as it was stored, shipped, inventoried and handled. It was installed with a sheet metal screw from an air or electric tool. The installation was not precise. Then the part was sprayed and covered with sealant. When the rubber hoses were inserted, I'll bet the hook was bent again, once to open it just a bit more, and pent in to hold the hose that kept popping out. For the quality inspector, measurements have been superseded by function.
Jim

[196667Bob]

Yes, the "easily make one" is probably true.  However, as I mentioned in Reply # 2, the 358350-S100 clips (identical except no "step" shown in the generic Ford Standard and Utility Parts Catalogs) were used as far back as 1954 (actually earlier on Ford Trucks), in such applications as 1949-51 "Starter Cable to Frame" on Passenger Cars, "Heater Switch Wiring" on 1957-59 Passenger Cars, "Headlamp Wiring to Grill Panel" on 1959 Passenger Cars, etc. This clip was still shown as available in the 1975 "Standard and Utility Parts Catalog" but not in the 1981. Thus, there were obviously many more application where it was used after 1959 in order to justify its being around for such a long time.
As I mentioned in my Reply # 2, this 358350-S100 appears identical to the 358352-S, except for possibly the "step". This step could easily be added, then the clip restored as Jeff me3ntioned in his Reply # 11.

OR............................................

You could go to NPD's site and purchase the one shown in the attached picture, Note that it is shown with the step, rubber coated, etc. This 358350-S clip is shown for a Thunderbird, but sure looks identical to me. This goes back to my comment in Reply # 2 that the 358352-S number was either an Engineering Number or an Assembly Line only Part Number.

I don't know about others, but my time is sure worth more than $1.94 an hour for the hours (and materials) needed to "easily make one of these".

Hope this helps.

Bob

[67gtasanjose]

A draftsman does not provide the cut length, it's the function of the machinist doing the layout (included is the "K" factor, metal stretching).

TRUE! My point exactly (if it was missed in an "assumed" measure of sorts). Perhaps it is only me but I figured a good number of us are 'amateur restorers' at best, we are mostly skilled in a self-taught, learned-by-error and we simply keep trying it (whatever "it" might be) again & again till we get it right. I try and do it "right" one time, but that isn't always how it goes.
I am not an "illustrator" nor a "machinist" though I have dabbled a little in both. I simply trying to do the best we can with the information available and trust me Jim, your help has been a HUGE BLESSING for me as much I am sure it has been for all of us! We are grateful!

Now, without at all trying to "poke the bear", the "very accurate" measurements I mentioned, are simply accurate measurements taken from a "real world" example (using machinists tools), measurements taken from an item that is "known as an original assemblyline part".

(e.g.,  that "P" loop strap I made a week or so back for the Thermactor, the "real world measurement didn't at all match up with the drawing specs, "K" factor or not, sometimes there CAN BE an error in those particular numbers)

[jwc66k]

Now, without at all trying to "poke the bear", the "very accurate" measurements I mentioned, are simply accurate measurements taken from a "real world" example (using machinists tools), measurements taken from an item that is "known as an original assemblyline part".

What? I gotta list tools? Trust me, I got them. 
Jim

[196667Bob]

The only tools needed for my solution (in case you didn't read it), are a computer and a Credit Card !

Bob

[67gtasanjose]

What? I gotta list tools? Trust me, I got them. 
Jim

I was sure you did, <poke>     

[midlife]

What? I gotta list tools? Trust me, I got them. 
Jim

Man, you are a tool!  Just kidding...

[67gtasanjose]

Man, you are a tool!  Just kidding...

He's just wound up 'cause his 'neighbors' the  "O & 9-er's"...are doing like our Browns team is this year....nobody wants neighbors like that!

[midlife]

He's just wound up 'cause his 'neighbors' the  "O & 9-er's"...are doing like our Browns team is this year....nobody wants neighbors like that!

Yes, but I know of a pretty good quarterback that's readily available that could help out either club.  His initials are CK. 

[jwc66k]

As I mentioned in my Reply # 2, this 358350-S100 appears identical to the 358352-S, except for possibly the "step".

I like your way of thinking, but it's too short (no further comments are necessary).

He's just wound up 'cause his 'neighbors' the  "O & 9-er's"...are doing like our Browns team is this year....nobody wants neighbors like that!

I heard there was a game there last weekend. What sport?

Yes, but I know of a pretty good quarterback that's readily available that could help out either club.  His initials are CK. 

CK is a "flash in the pan" quarterback. After a couple of games, the defense figured him out. Now, there's too much "baggage".
Jim

[196667Bob]

I like your way of thinking, but it's too short (no further comments are necessary).
Jim

Jim : Do you really think that 1/16" (.0625) would be that perceptible ?

Bob

[RocketScientist]

I used heat shrink tube to replicate the rubberised coating and it gives you that nice, tight, rubber-like finish. It's just another way to get the end result.

[jwc66k]

I used heat shrink tube to replicate the rubberised coating and it gives you that nice, tight, rubber-like finish. It's just another way to get the end result.

It's also very obvious.
Jim

[jwc66k]

Do you really think that 1/16" (.0625) would be that perceptible ?

There are several 1/16 inch differences. Your length is calculated down, then back up on the "hook" side, plus the amount needed to make the curved base of the hook. We're now short 3/16 inch (est). You also don't know the thickness of the steel.
Jim