Topic: 1966 Steering wheel issue

[Hipo giddyup]

 Guess this is the best place to post this.. I just bought a repro steering wheel, (the original wheel has more cracks than a whip). I will start by saying that I have NO issues with the old wheel,turn signals work, horn works, etc.. it is just beyond repair. Anyway, I installed the new wheel (which actually looks very well done)and backed down the drive way to be 100% sure it is on straight. When I went to tighten the nut, the courtesy lights started cutting out and I heard a buzz from what I think was the turn signal flasher. I pulled it back off and checked everything, which looked fine. I tightened it up again and the same thing started happening. I removed it so as not to burn up any wiring. I'm guessing that the horn contacts are grounding/shorting out through the steering shaft??? Therefore, it is likely I have a bad wheel??? I will be calling the manufacture of the wheel today to see what they say but wanted to pose the situation here in case someone else has seen this, experienced it, and could respond back. Maybe there is an electrical test I can perform on the steering wheel to see if it is the culprit?  Thanks for a reply.

[CharlesTurner]

Sounds like the rings are coming into contact.  You might try removing them, on a standard wheel I can't remember if only one or both come off.  The one with the long tab might need to be bent.

Typical repro stuff.

[midlife]

I've found that a bit over-tightening of the steering wheel nut can short out the turn signal switch, which has rivet heads on the back side, against the steering column itself.  I now always put a piece of electrical tape over those rivet heads.  Something to consider.

[67gtasanjose]

I've found that a bit over-tightening of the steering wheel nut can short out the turn signal switch, which has rivet heads on the back side, against the steering column itself.  I now always put a piece of electrical tape over those rivet heads.  Something to consider.

great point and even better solution!

Bill, Another "possibility" is you need to move your column away from the new wheel a 16th of an inch perhaps.

[Hipo giddyup]

All good comments.

I will try and use some tape under the harness as Midlife noted. That's a great idea.

Richard, actually I had a decent gap  ( 1/4") between the wheel and the column that would require me to move the column up as it is so that will likely make this "short" worse. Good idea though.  More to come when I have a chance to work on this again..

[Hipo giddyup]

Ok so this might be intended for the wiring guru, Midlife...

I used my multimeter and tested the center of the original wheel and each contact ring on the underside. Then did the same on the repro wheel. I placed the red contact on the center with the splines that fit onto the steering shaft, then placed the black lead on the OUTSIDE collar. The OHM meter read 1. and it was set on the 200 Ohm scale. Next I kept the red lead on the spline section again but this time tested the INNER ring of the original and then did the same to the repro. The original read 1. BUT the repro read .09 . I think that means the center section and inner contact ring on the repro are making contact??? Hope this makes sense...    Please help!

[midlife]

Ok so this might be intended for the wiring guru, Midlife...

I used my multimeter and tested the center of the original wheel and each contact ring on the underside. Then did the same on the repro wheel. I placed the red contact on the center with the splines that fit onto the steering shaft, then placed the black lead on the OUTSIDE collar. The OHM meter read 1. and it was set on the 200 Ohm scale. Next I kept the red lead on the spline section again but this time tested the INNER ring of the original and then did the same to the repro. The original read 1. BUT the repro read .09 . I think that means the center section and inner contact ring on the repro are making contact??? Hope this makes sense...    Please help!

Bingo!  The two concentric rings on the underside should not have continuity with each other, or with the splines, or the outside of the wheel housing.  The only time they have continuity is when the horn is pressed.  I would look closely at the steering wheel side that faces the driver for some sort of slag or debris.

[Hipo giddyup]

 I did look but I didn’t see anything abnormal. I think I will likely return it to get another. Thanks for the response!

[GCROWD]

I had the exact same issue last year with a brand new steering wheel.  I did the same continuity test as you and had the same result. I returned it to the vendor in person, showing them the continuity with a multimeter, and they gave me another.  The 2nd one has been working fine. 

[Hipo giddyup]

 Thanks for the reply. I too have contacted the vendor and they will be shipping me a new wheel. So far it has been a pleasant experience considering the  disappointment with the first wheel.

[Hipo giddyup]

 Finally received the new wheel yesterday and got it installed. No issues whatsoever, and the horn works great on all three arms of the horn ring. Nice that the company has good customer service. The steering wheel looks great and is one of the nicest repros I've seen. I've heard stories that aftermarket wheels crack after a year or two. We'll have to wait and see with this one. 

[GT500KR]

Finally received the new wheel yesterday and got it installed. No issues whatsoever, and the horn works great on all three arms of the horn ring. Nice that the company has good customer service. The steering wheel looks great and is one of the nicest repros I've seen. I've heard stories that aftermarket wheels crack after a year or two. We'll have to wait and see with this one. 

Could you please share the name of the vendor that you had such a good experience with? I may be in the market for a new wheel soon. Thanks.

[Hipo giddyup]

Sure, ACP out of California. I purchased the wheel from VCM.