Topic: 1964 coil ink stamp

[Hipo giddyup]

Hi all, I just picked up a good used yellow top coil at the Hershey AACA meet this week. It has a dated ink stamp on it and I need confirmation of the date. Attached are some pictures and I think it is marked 4 MBC?? This would put it at a Dec 64 production date?

I’m also unsure of the 2D cast between the posts?? Not sure what that means? I tested the coil and it is regestering between 1.6 - 2.0 ohms, although I haven’t tested it hot yet.

[Bob Gaines]

Hi all, I just picked up a good used yellow top coil at the Hershey AACA meet this week. It has a dated ink stamp on it and I need confirmation of the date. Attached are some pictures and I think it is marked 4 MBC?? This would put it at a Dec 64 production date?

I’m also unsure of the 2D cast between the posts?? Not sure what that means? I tested the coil and it is regestering between 1.6 - 2.0 ohms, although I haven’t tested it hot yet.

Yes Dec 1964. The number and letter between the terminals is thought to be internal company designation unrelated to date. FYI the number and letter between the terminals although on all genuine coils is not on the repros that I have seen.It is something to look out for.

[jwc66k]

Attached are some pictures and I think it is marked 4 MBC?? This would put it at a Dec 64 production date?

Yes dec 1966.

I think you meant 1964.
Jim

[markb0729]

FYI the number and letter between the terminals although on all genuine coils is not on the repros that I have seen.It is something to look out for.

I found later service replacement that was missing the number and letter between the terminals.  The year escapes me at the moment.

[Bob Gaines]

I think you meant 1964.
Jim

Yes ,thank you for the catch. I will amend my post .I had just got done putting up some 66 parts and had 66 on the brain .

[Hipo giddyup]

Thanks for the replies. One last question, I have seen in other posts about restoring these coils, removing and repainting the black and even repainting the yellow top. My question is, remove the ink stamp or tape it off to preserve it??? Thoughts?

[jwc66k]

Thanks for the replies. One last question, I have seen in other posts about restoring these coils, removing and repainting the black and even repainting the yellow top. My question is, remove the ink stamp or tape it off to preserve it??? Thoughts?

Most of the coils I've seen are in such poor condition, I clean the yellow, mask the yellow, bead blast and repaint. I'm still "working" on my stamp. A local shop quoted me around $9.00 for a flat stamp, which would require the coil to be rolled on the inked stamp. To be more universal, I planned to stamp the date code separately. That's another stamp, around $5.00. Aero 1250 ink is recommended, in silver. It's epoxy. Practice - practice - practice. You will need a couple of roller type ink pads as the epoxy ink is almost impossible to clean and it gets hard - quick. Like I said, I'm still "working" on it.
Jim

[Hipo giddyup]

Thanks Jim. I was thinking it would be difficult to preserve this, plus it is under the coil bracket that holds the coil so you can't even appreciate it. I'm with you, I will redo the paint but take a few better pictures of the stamp for my records before removing it. Then I can date the coil for my next project. I'll have to locate a local print shop to see what they can do about making the stamp.

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks Jim. I was thinking it would be difficult to preserve this, plus it is under the coil bracket that holds the coil so you can't even appreciate it. I'm with you, I will redo the paint but take a few better pictures of the stamp for my records before removing it. Then I can date the coil for my next project. I'll have to locate a local print shop to see what they can do about making the stamp.

FYI many of the early dated coils had a indexing bump . That bump indexed the coil in the bracket that has a hole in it for the bump. That type coil is not appropriate for 67 IMO. If it does have the bump consider using another coil and selling the early style to someone with a 65. They are very hard to find when you need one. Just some thoughts.

[Morsel]

Yep, I reproduced the stamp off my coil as well, it took me 4 times to "roll it" correctly, was a pain because I had to re-blast and paint the coil each time I failed, but patients got me what I wanted and it came out great in the end. I ended up having good success in the end by using a 2 x 4 and mounting the stamp the correct height on the 2 x 4 off the base of the table, and then just rolled the coil on the table leaving the 2 x 4 in position. Tried a few time using the stamp itself and that was a complete fail each time I tried, too shaky.

Jim, good idea on doing the date separately, I think there was a discussion on one of the threads about how there was a possibility it was stamped separately anyway which is why some seem to look a little different or distorted differently from the rest of the stamp.

Good luck Hipo giddyup

Jason

[Bob Gaines]

Yep, I reproduced the stamp off my coil as well, it took me 4 times to "roll it" correctly, was a pain because I had to re-blast and paint the coil each time I failed, but patients got me what I wanted and it came out great in the end. I ended up having good success in the end by using a 2 x 4 and mounting the stamp the correct height on the 2 x 4 off the base of the table, and then just rolled the coil on the table leaving the 2 x 4 in position. Tried a few time using the stamp itself and that was a complete fail each time I tried, too shaky.

Jim, good idea on doing the date separately, I think there was a discussion on one of the threads about how there was a possibility it was stamped separately anyway which is why some seem to look a little different or distorted differently from the rest of the stamp.

Good luck Hipo giddyup

Jason

Yes another alternative, but better be careful because it sounds like another chance to re-blast and paint the coil each time you fail besides the times doing the main stamp. That would really be irritating.

[Hipo giddyup]

Thanks Morsel, good advice.
Bob, this coil will likely be used on my 66’ Dearborn coupe. I believe it would be appropriate, no bump.

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks Morsel, good advice.
Bob, this coil will likely be used on my 66’ Dearborn coupe. I believe it would be appropriate, no bump.

Good to hear it is right for your car. Most of the factory stamps end up under the coil like the witness line indicates yours was . Some don't . You can stamp a little lower so as to see a edge section of the stamp when it is properly indexed in the coil and be no harm no foul IMO. Use wire wheel cleaner and a brass brush to make the terminal posts look like new before painting.

[Morsel]

Good to hear it is right for your car. Most of the factory stamps end up under the coil like the witness line indicates yours was . Some don't . You can stamp a little lower so as to see a edge section of the stamp when it is properly indexed in the coil and be no harm no foul IMO. Use wire wheel cleaner and a brass brush to make the terminal posts look like new before painting.

Oh forgot one piece that made it even easier, once I attached/stuck the stamping to the 2 x 4, I used two thin pieces on either side of the stamp and glued them in position that were basically the same thickness of the stamp, so as I rolled the coil, it was a smooth transition from wood to stamp... hope that makes sense.

It worked for me and everything else I tried I failed miserably, haha, and that worked first time...

Jason

[jwc66k]

Oh forgot one piece that made it even easier, once I attached/stuck the stamping to the 2 x 4, I used two thin pieces on either side of the stamp and glued them in position that were basically the same thickness of the stamp, so as I rolled the coil, it was a smooth transition from wood to stamp... hope that makes sense.

Practice - practice - practice.

The "practice" method includes some black ABS pipe about 2 1/4 inch in diameter cut to a 4 inch length to simulate a coil. You could use white PVC with black ink to "practice" as well. The wood "spacers" attached to the 2 X 4 represent common sense. The stamp on an original coil sitting on my desk is at a slight angle, the right edge is 3/16 inch higher than the left (1/2 vs 11/16 - 0.500 - 0.688). In replicating a mass produced automotive item from the 1960's, sloppy is good. Ford was not building concourse grade cars.
Jim