The photo on the left I found just to demonstrate the bracket orientation. The photo on the right is my car. Care to comment on any non-original details in the example to the right? At a minimum I see there's a lot more sloppy sealer in that area in your examples than on my car.
Things like the spring saddles are replacement and have the rubber pads between the spring and the saddle pads (not original) and because of these pads you have a small hole that fits onto a nipple formed in those pads. Also not original
Steering (tie rods, adjusters, adjuster hardware, center link) and spindles all mono tone. Not darkened from the heat treating, no brighter machined surfaces. Upper ball joints have non-factory type rivets, the rivets are the same finish/tone as all the rest of the metal and the upper ball joints have zert fittings. I would not have chosen to paint the front coil springs. On the hoses you choose to use remove the markings. Better to have no non-factory markings than have the wrong ones
I'm still a little fuzzy on the hoses though to me they look pretty taught in the photos you've shared. Is there any level of tweaking that might be typical like bending the brackets? The shop that's putting the car together feels like there's not enough slack in the hose to account for suspension travel and turning geometry. In fact, with the suspension fully extended there isn't enough slack to get the clip on the fitting on the bracket. Yes they are repro hoses but the brackets are the ones that came off the car. The hoses came from a reputable vendor and at this point I have no reason to question them - should I?
A vendor can be fine but often they don't make the parts and its not unusual for hoses to get made a little shorter or a little longer than they originally were.
Might just want to visit the local auto parts store and lay the hoses they have next to what you got to see if one brand is slightly longer. Worth a try IMHO
