Topic: 1967 brake pressure warning light / pressure valve

[67gta289]

In a previous post Marty recommended heat, then whacking it on a block of wood. This did not work the first try, so I gave it much more heat the second time, grabbed it with a Kevlar glove and gave it a hard whack.  Popped right out.    The compressed air and soaking did nothing for me either.

[Hipo giddyup]

Yikes! I don't want to destroy my distribution block so wish me luck. I have another as a spare and might practice on that first. I'm one of those people who can't stand something being on the car that isn't working. 

[67gtasanjose]

Get yourself a couple of fittings that fit the back side of the block, cap one off. (use your imagination or buy a cap fitting). Install the capped fitting into one of the holes (on the back side of the piston), 'thread' (using a tap) the inside of the other fitting (where normally the tubing is at...again, thread this 2nd fitting into the block on the back side of the stuck piston. Thread a grease zerk into this 'threaded fitting', pump up the pressure with a grease gun, if this won't move it, perhaps a little heat but WATCH OUT! When that HOT GREASE expands...IT WILL BURST OUT ABRUPTLY! (have a field of rags handy in the vicinity to catch the piston softly) Works every time I've tried it but use eye protection, long sleeves, gloves...you know...be smart.

[Bob Gaines]

Or  -  NPD page 93 distribution block 28075-2A .  70.64 .     In case you don't need the satisfaction of DIY or feel like it would be cheating .

[67350#1242]

+1 on the grease gun.  You can put in a tremendous amount of pressure with just a few squeezes of your hand.
I've used the gun on dist. blocks and brake caliper pistons very successfully and with no damage to the parts - usually will not need heat with this.
Kurt.

[C6ZZGT]

OK I have this issue as well on the wifes 67,I found the rebuild kit and new block in the NPD catalog BUT I don`t see the " the centering pin fitting i believe."--- Anyone have a part number ?

[ruppstang]

It is in the tool section. 914-7 $10.00
They are easy to make for about $1.25

[67gtasanjose]

It is in the tool section. 914-7 $10.00
They are easy to make for about $1.25

Agree, +1

Keep in mind, the piston needs centered BEFORE using this tool. The tool or pin on the end does not need to be hardened so you can get a bolt with correct thread pitch, allen bolts work best because you can grasp them in your cordless drill easier to machine it down (using a cut-off wheel)

[sah62]

I could not get the spool valve unstuck on the car I was restoring. I soaked it in an array of liquids for three weeks. I tried hot water, brief heating with a propane heater, Ice, 120 lbs of Compressed Air (Caution!!!!I restrained with a vice and clamps to prevent getting punctured by the projectile), tapping, hammering, and even swearing. Nothing moved the valve.

There was no way to attach anything to the valve and the opening was too small for needle-nose pliers. I contemplated drilling out the back end, but decided not too.

The application was a July 67 Coupe, 4 wheel drum, manual brakes.

Reinstalled the valve with my hopes and expectations smashed...left wire disconnected.

A quick continuity test can be performed between the brass case and the terminal.  If the spool valve has shifted off center it completes the circuit to ground causing the light to come on.

This was the only thing that I gave up on during this 7 year restoration. The circuit does not provide any advance safety measure, as it is the loss of brake pressure that causes the light to come on....you will feel the loss of pressure simultaneously.

Completely and Utterly Defeated,
Mark

I provide the kits that most of the catalog vendors carry, and I have some tricks described on my web site for getting the piston out. Please send me a PM and I'll follow up with you this weekend after I return from a short day job business trip.

[C6ZZGT]

thx for that-I guess i would have got that far back in the book eventually !

[Hipo giddyup]

 This question is more for SAH 62. I got the distribution block out of the car but of course the pin is stuck. I have block off's for all the ports except for of course where the pin will exit and one of the rear ports that needs to use the grease gun to expel the pin. Can you tell me the thread size that I will need for the block as well as what would work with the grease gun? I have a close match but it comes apart once I apply pressure from the grease gun  between the grease gun in the fitting.  The match is dead on for the thread size of the distribution block. Thanks for any help

[sah62]

This question is more for SAH 62. I got the distribution block out of the car but of course the pin is stuck. I have block off's for all the ports except for of course where the pin will exit and one of the rear ports that needs to use the grease gun to expel the pin. Can you tell me the thread size that I will need for the block as well as what would work with the grease gun? I have a close match but it comes apart once I apply pressure from the grease gun  between the grease gun in the fitting.  The match is dead on for the thread size of the distribution block. Thanks for any help

Sorry, but I don't recall the port size off the top of my head. I do, however, have some tips to describe what you need:

https://www.musclecarresearch.com/grease-gun-pressure

You might need to visit your local NAPA to find the right combination of fittings.

[67gtasanjose]

This question is more for SAH 62. I got the distribution block out of the car but of course the pin is stuck. I have block off's for all the ports except for of course where the pin will exit and one of the rear ports that needs to use the grease gun to expel the pin. Can you tell me the thread size that I will need for the block as well as what would work with the grease gun? I have a close match but it comes apart once I apply pressure from the grease gun  between the grease gun in the fitting.  The match is dead on for the thread size of the distribution block. Thanks for any help

I waited for sah62 to answer first since you asked. I knew he had a link to another website that spelled out various details.
I have now borrowed an image from that site that shows a setup similar to what I described earlier but I used what I already had in my "spare parts", including just a regular tubing fitting, I threaded the inside of the regular tubing fitting (using a tap/die set) to accept an old grease zerk. Hardware store got NONE of my money again this time

Your block will differ from the picture but the arrangement is basically the same.

[Hipo giddyup]

 Thanks for all the advice guys. I took a 5/16 inverted flare plug, drilled it with a 15/64 bit, then used a 1/4 x 28 tap and placed a zerk fitting in it. I capped off all ports except the exit port where the pin would exit . Then after slowly applying grease gun pressure, I  felt a "give"and the pin popped towards the exit hole. I then took some needle nose pliers and pulled the pin out the rest the way. Hopefully this info can help the next person.

My pin didn't look as bad and corroded as others I've seen so I would suspect that bleeding the brakes could have shifted my pin back to position without removing it from the distribution block or taking a block off the car. Either way this was a guaranteed fix, to remove it and be able to put new seals on it. Next I'll reassemble, use the positioning tool to keep the pin centered, get it back on the car, bleed the brakes, and hopefully the brake warning light won't be staying on!!

[jwc66k]

I like your style - make your own tools. Good job.
Jim