Topic: 67 engine harness parts needed

[67gta289]

I'm refurbishing the main front harness, from inside through firewall wrapping around to the battery area.  I need to replace the terminals at the voltage regulator - looking for ones with the tabs.  Any recommended sources?  A picture is attached.

I also need a plastic clip, one very close to the firewall.  I have a three donors, all broken.  Picture attached.  My 68 donor is a different style.

Thanks, John

[67gtasanjose]

I might have the clip near the firewall, if not broken too. I replaced my underhood harness with an Alloy Metal product. I do notice some differences, but ehhh...whatcha gonna do when the rest has serious issues.

[ruppstang]

John I am guessing that your car is a San Jose car. That style of clip is commonly found on San Jose harness. I will look and see if I have any extras.
Marty

[Bob Gaines]

I'm refurbishing the main front harness, from inside through firewall wrapping around to the battery area.  I need to replace the terminals at the voltage regulator - looking for ones with the tabs.  Any recommended sources?  A picture is attached.

I also need a plastic clip, one very close to the firewall.  I have a three donors, all broken.  Picture attached.  My 68 donor is a different style.

Thanks, John

I have always robbed the terminals from a donor regulator plug when needed.

[67gtasanjose]

I'm refurbishing the main front harness...
I also need a plastic clip, one very close to the firewall. I have a three donors, all broken.  Picture attached.

I might have the clip near the firewall, if not broken too.

OK, I did not find my clip from the under hood harness, but found this one on an under dash harness from a 68.
It's not perfect but it is not broken. I can email more pictures if interested. It is yours if you want it or if you do not find a better one.

[67gtasanjose]

  I need to replace the terminals at the voltage regulator - looking for ones with the tabs.  Any recommended sources?  A picture is attached.

When all else fails, check the "corvette" sites (yes, corvette, in this instance is WITHOUT the capital letter )
http://www.zip-corvette.com/63-68-voltage-regulator-plug-terminal.html

I cannot say for sure but it seems they use the same terminal ends (obviously, the plastic connector is GM specific (IHC and some AMC's also use the Delco systems)...For whatever reason, they find things we Mustangers fail to do.

[67gta289]

I have always robbed the terminals from a donor regulator plug when needed.

Bob, I thought about that, I have a few.  To be clear, you carefully pry back the crimp and pull the wire out, then reuse?  Thanks, John

[67gta289]

John I am guessing that your car is a San Jose car. That style of clip is commonly found on San Jose harness. I will look and see if I have any extras.
Marty

Thanks Marty, yes it is for my SJ car.

OK, I did not find my clip from the under hood harness, but found this one on an under dash harness from a 68.
It's not perfect but it is not broken. I can email more pictures if interested. It is yours if you want it or if you do not find a better one.

Richard, go ahead and shoot me some pics.  I have one 68 under dash harness so will check that.  All I checked so far were engine compartment harnesses.  Thanks.

[67gtasanjose]

Off topic, but along the "corvette site has things Mustang sites do not" reality...Horn kits to rebuild your horns are available too.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/64-75-horn-repair-refinish-kit.html

They have other kits available with the diaphams but I have only bought this one. It works great!

[67gtasanjose]

Bob, I thought about that, I have a few.  To be clear, you carefully pry back the crimp and pull the wire out, then reuse?  Thanks, John

Not trying to hi-jack this but it seems since a special crimping tool was used, it would be difficult to restore the crimping if doing it this way. I hope Bob has an idea I haven't tried or thought of.

Now, "Function-wise", I have drilled out the crimping before on similar connectors with a tiny drill bit, lightly crimped it back on and soldered the connection to seal it. It works, but looks slightly different than original and you stand the chance of overheating the insulation of the wire (since the original connector crimping also crimped onto the insulation)

[Bob Gaines]

Not trying to hi-jack this but it seems since a special crimping tool was used, it would be difficult to restore the crimping if doing it this way. I hope Bob has an idea I haven't tried or thought of.

Now, "Function-wise", I have drilled out the crimping before on similar connectors with a tiny drill bit, lightly crimped it back on and soldered the connection to seal it. It works, but looks slightly different than original and you stand the chance of overheating the insulation of the wire (since the original connector crimping also crimped onto the insulation)

Sure,The crimping is not typically seen once installed in the plug just the end or the other. If concerned about the crimping be sure to have a long enough wire pig tail on donor so that you can solder a connection farther back in the wrapped harness were it is concealed . If doing multiple connections instead of just one wire make sure the connections are staggard so no connection is directly next to another where they can possibly contact each other . It doesn't hurt to put a heat shrink tube over the connection for good measure but if connections are staggard the wire harness wrap if properly done is typically good enough . Also staggering multiple connections will lesson the look of a "python after eating a goat" look the harness gets if making too many connections in one place .   

[Hipo giddyup]

Here is an example from American Autowire. I have used terminals just like these to fix my 67' harness at the regulator, but you would have to confirm the size. American autowire also sells the crimping tool. I'm sure there are other vendors as most aftermarket wiring folks have connectors with the tabs for their harness connections. My friend's 64' Chevelle used a different vendor's solution but the terminals with tabs looked the same.

Hope this helps.

[196667Bob]

John : For the connectors, check YNZ's site under Electrical Parts, Terminals and connectors. They have them in Brass or tinned.
For the plastic "clip", check Mr G's fasteners. They have one similar except with "Christmas tree" type push in.

Bob

[jwc66k]

Now, "Function-wise", I have drilled out the crimping before on similar connectors with a tiny drill bit, lightly crimped it back on and soldered the connection to seal it. It works, but looks slightly different than original and you stand the chance of overheating the insulation of the wire (since the original connector crimping also crimped onto the insulation)

I use a "heat sink" on insulated wires, to reduce the possibility of the insulation from being damaged, before I tin them. The "heat sink" I use is a pair of hemostats, medical locking clamps that look like pliers. Good ones are made from stainless steel. After "tinning" the wire (getting it hot enough to apply a small dab of solder), I "tin" the contact, then slip the contact over the wire. It's a standard technique used by assembly line people.
Jim

[67gta289]

Thanks to the many and varied responses, I have a lot of options. 

Back in the 88 time frame I engineered some Ford export parts that including wire harnesses that went to New Jersey for installation.  It was a relatively small business (~90 people) as far as Ford suppliers go.  We had a semi automated crimping machine.  The terminals were spooled in batches of 1000 or so.  The wire was stripped manually (remember the low volume comment), then inserted by hand into the die.  A foot pedal brought the dies together to crimp and cut the terminal, and index the terminal for the next crimp.   

In my case I had planned on tinning the wire, crimping (I have a few types of crimping tools, but nothing as good as what I mentioned above with a specific die to match the terminal), then a final hit with some heat and more solder if needed.  Sinking the heat away from the insulation is good, as Jim mentioned.  If you don't have a hemostat, you can use a small C clamp or vice grips with swivel pads.  Obviously in any case be careful not to bear down too hard.

I don't think there is an overheating concern as long as the workmanship is good (no cut strands, everything cleaned up, etc.)  Since the terminal is in a black plastic protective sleeve, I don't think it will be seen, making looks secondary in this specific application.  Other applications could be a different story.

Regarding Bob G's suggestion I've used that on other projects, and agree that staggered splices is the only way to fly under the radar.

The "new" idea for me anyway was Richard's suggestion to cut the wire off the donor and drill out the old wire.  After than I can use varying sized of picks to pry them open.

Thanks again.