Topic: Turn Signals Do Not Work

[Mark69Sportsroof]

Ok confused again. Here is a pic of my test. I get no reading or change at. The black lead is in the blue wire hole and the red lead is in the grn/white hole. I sampled the other wires and no difference. Thanks Mark

[67gtasanjose]

Ea

Ok confused again. Here is a pic of my test. I get no reading or change at. The black lead is in the blue wire hole and the red lead is in the grn/white hole. I sampled the other wires and no difference. Thanks Mark

Perhaps we can eliminate possibilities:
1.) Earlier you mentioned you have replaced the TS switch, did it come with the curved bulk connector attached or did you install the plastic connector?

2.) Is it a FORD part or "other"?

3.) Did the replacement TS switch have the same color coded wiring and do these wires from each switch match up, going to the same locations (looking at both the switch end of each wire AND each wire where it enters the bulk connector)

[Mark69Sportsroof]

I used the same connector from the original t/s switch

[67gtasanjose]

I used the same connector from the original t/s switch

I thought you may have. Undoubtedly, you have one or more of those "too many blue wires" plugged into the wrong spot in the connector.

I think we have a starting point now...

[Mark69Sportsroof]

All wire color matched except for 1.

[67gtasanjose]

All wire color matched except for 1.

perhaps, but each of those blue wires has a unique function. Without a diagram in front of me, I believe one supplies the HORN 12V power and the other is the TS 12V Accessory(switched with key) <flasher> power. (<flasher> intended to read as the power goes first through the flasher unit before getting to the switch)

[Mark69Sportsroof]

The upper top left wire was blue and the new t/s switch has it yellow/black. Mark

[67gtasanjose]

The upper top left wire was blue and the new t/s switch has it yellow/black. Mark

OK, the picture you have provided, is this the NEW switch or an image of original wiring that you took before unplugging them?

[Mark69Sportsroof]

That's the original t/s switch connector before I removed the wires from it. Mark

[Mark69Sportsroof]

Here is the new t/s switch, old plastic connector after I inserted the wires into it

[67gtasanjose]

That's the original t/s switch connector before I removed the wires from it. Mark

Good. I assume you checked to see that each colored wire went to the exact location up top, on the switch. Which wire at the switch end matches up to circuit #44, blue (no stripe) wire that comes from the flasher unit? Check continuity up to the switch (can plug in the switch & use a test lamp AT the switch itself for simplicity) You should see 12V is all is correct

[67gtasanjose]

Take a picture of BOTH switches, side-by-side, then flip them over and take another picture side-by-side. I think I have an idea.

It will be this evening before I can be back to review with a schematic and a NOS Ford switch and a used Ford original switch but I want to review these before I answer again

[midlife]

Ok confused again. Here is a pic of my test. I get no reading or change at. The black lead is in the blue wire hole and the red lead is in the grn/white hole. I sampled the other wires and no difference. Thanks Mark

The pin that you call being in the blue wire is in the blue/yellow wire (horn output).  The real blue wire should be on the outside curve on the other end.

I don't know how I missed this, but this picture that you posted in reply has the yellow/black and blue wires swapped.  The yellow/black wire should go in the "blank" position that I described above, on the inner curve; the blue on the outer curve.  This probably explains all of your problems.  But before you do that, test the yellow/black wire against all of the others as I earlier described.  If the results don't match, use the blue wire that should (I think) be swapped for it.

Were there specific instructions to put the yellow/black wire in that position?  Based upon your pictures of the actual turn signal, I believe blue should be in that position. 

[67gtasanjose]

Randy beat me to it since I took too long writing but we came up with the same results.

Looking at a schematic, your images of "before" & "after" it looks to me that your "light blue" wire from your original switch is that "extra" wire that Midlife was referring to, that it goes nowhere on your dash harness (empty hole). Then it looks, from what I can gather out of your images, that all of your original color wires MOSTLY are accounted for except your new TS harness has a light blue wire INSTEAD of a dark blue wire and replaced the light blue wire with that yellow & black tracer. Translation: Unplug the yellow with black tracer from your TS harness and switch it with the light blue wire and get back with the results.

Your TS flasher source IS SUPPOSED to be (using YOUR image) the wire entering the back of the 4-way flasher side of the turn signal switch (not on the TS side of the switch ~don't ask why, it just IS this way) Look again at your picture (first image below) and notice the light blue wire closest to your thumb. THAT is where the TS flasher supply voltage enters this combination switch.

LEGEND of circuit number, wiring colors TYPICALLY used in TS switches 67-up and their function:

#460     YELLOW.            HORN       12V supply
#482     BLUE/YELLOW.   HORN.      Horn(s) Feed
#385     WHITE/RED.       4-way flasher supply (12V constant feed THROUGH the 4-way flasher unit)
# 44      DARK BLUE.        Turn signal supply (12V switched feed from ignition switch THROUGH TS flasher unit)
#511     GREEN               Brake lamp feed from the brake lamp switch
#.  2      WHITE/BLUE.     Right front signal lamp feed (note: #49 typically tied in at harness for indicator lamp)
#.  3      GREEN/WHITE.   Left front signal lamp feed (note: #50 typically tied in at harness for indicator lamp)
#.  5      ORANGE/BLUE.   Right rear signal lamp & brake lamp
#.  9.     GREEN/ORANGE  Left rear signal lamp & brake lamp

We might see another odd wire, such as my 67 has a red wire running down the switch for no reason, but these "extra wires typically dead-end into an empty cavity of the under dash harness.

[Mark69Sportsroof]

Ok here is 2 pics of the t/s switch and the under dash connector. I put a piece of paper between the wires to help separate them. Mark