Topic: Turn Signals Do Not Work

[jwc66k]

A digital volt-ohm meter that can also read DC current up to 10 or 20 amps is an excellent trouble-shooting tool, if one knows how to use it.

In other words, don't. More meters are ruined attempting a current test.
Jim

[Mark69Sportsroof]

Ok the dark blue wire #44 blinks when touched by the test light. It does it in all 3 positions. The 25 percent lit wire is the white with red stripe that goes to the emergency flasher. All other wires show no power according to test light with the key in the accessories position. Thanks Mark

[midlife]

Wire #44 is the turn signal flasher wire, IIRC.  The power to the turn signal flasher should be ACC-fused, so if the key is out and you're seeing 12V, something is wrong with the wiring somewhere.

I'd continue trouble-shooting by removing the e-flasher can so that system is isolated from the system.  Find the orange wire to the turn signal flasher can and check for voltage with key out and with key in ACC.  Let's start there and do a systematic trouble-shoot, OK?

[Mark69Sportsroof]

Thanks Randy for your patience, knowledge and willingness.  I will check that tomorrow.  The multi meter I had there didn't have the DC option.  It was in another car so I got the right one.  Thanks Mark

[Mark69Sportsroof]

Ok, I removed the e flasher. I tested the orange wire for the ts flasher and got 0 in the key off position with the key in and out.
 
Turned key to acc and got 11.9 -12.0 volts. My meter has dcv and dva. I used  the dcv.

BTW the entire dash is out of the car. The only wiring changes I did was new ts switch and the 2 new flashers. The car hasn't been on the road since 1984. But it's up and running, all lights except the ts and the horns work.  Thanks Mark

[midlife]

Ok, I removed the e flasher. I tested the orange wire for the ts flasher and got 0 in the key off position with the key in and out.
 
Turned key to acc and got 11.9 -12.0 volts. My meter has dcv and dva. I used  the dcv.

BTW the entire dash is out of the car. The only wiring changes I did was new ts switch and the 2 new flashers. The car hasn't been on the road since 1984. But it's up and running, all lights except the ts and the horns work.  Thanks Mark

Yes, DCV.  No need to test key in or out; just OFF and ACC.  Your readings are what are expected, so you have power to the flasher. 

OK...disconnect the plug from the turn signal flasher and jumper the pins on the connector.  You should now have power to the turn signal switch, but the lights will not flash but stay on.  With ACC and the turn signal switch in neutral, no lights on either side, front or back.  With TS switch to one side, those lights should be on, front and back.  Be careful with jumper.  You can use a paper clip, but protect the exposed metal from shorting out to the chassis!  If wires start to smoke or get hot, turn key to OFF immediately.

[Mark69Sportsroof]

Ok I did the above test. The orange wire stayed hot and when I jumped it the other blue wire it was hot. None of the ts lights turned on. Mark

[midlife]

OK.  Next, we are going to see if power goes to the turn signal switch connector.  Keep the plug to the flasher jumpered, disconnect the turn signal switch, and probe the blue wire at the outer curve, left-most side when looking at the underdash portion of the turn signal switch connector.  You should see 12V.

Another, safer, test, is to remove your flasher jumper and measure resistance between the blue pin on the flasher connector and the blue pin (as located above) on the disconnected turn signal switch connector.  You should see 1 ohm or less.  Set your DVM to resistance, or an upside down U, set to 200 ohms max range or somewhat close to that value.

Take a close look at that blue pin and ensure it is not recessed, as well as its mate on the turn signal switch side. 

[Mark69Sportsroof]

I will check.  I believe I did this step also earlier today by chance.  I only got 12v on the yellow wire on the dash wiring harness that the t/s harness connects to.  I didn't check the pins.   I will re check everything as you have outlined tomorrow and update you.  Thanks so much Randy.   Mark

[midlife]

The yellow wire is unimportant in this trouble-shooting venture, as it is horn power and is unrelated to turn signals themselves.

[Mark69Sportsroof]

Ok I did the first test. I got 11.9v on the blue wire. I checked the pins and receivers on both pieces oh the t/s wires. All looks good. Mark

[67gtasanjose]

When all else fails...at least it's FREE!


PS: There is a 5-minute video on how to refill your Blinker Fluid on Youtube (if instructions are needed) Yes, I know TS work can be frustrating...I learned from the school of hard knocks WITHOUT any wiring diagrams & nobody else with knowledge of how they worked around either...We'll get you going, you are in good hands with Randy (aka Midlife)

[midlife]

Ok I did the first test. I got 11.9v on the blue wire. I checked the pins and receivers on both pieces oh the t/s wires. All looks good. Mark

OK...you're getting power to the turn signal switch.  Let's turn to the turn signal switch itself.  First, disconnect it from the underdash harness and you'll need to set your DVM to resistance, ohms, or the upside down U.  No need for the key to power anything.  Put the turn signal switch lever in the neutral position and look for resistance between the blue wire and the following: white/blue, green/white, orange/blue, and green/orange.  These wires are in the center of the turn signal switch connector, top and bottom row.  You should see high resistance between blue and these wires.

Now put your turn signal switch to the down or left side position.  Measure resistance again as above, and you should get low resistance for the green/white (front) and green/red (rear) lamp turn signals.  High resistance for the other two wires.

Put the turn signal switch to the up or right side position.  Resistance should be low between blue and white/blue (front) and orange/blue (rear) wires.  High resistance for the other two.

Now then...brake lights come from the green wire below the blue wire.  You can measure resistance between the green wire and the four above.  You should see high resistance for the white/blue and green/white wires and low resistance for the green/red and orange/blue wires, with the turn signal lever position in the neutral position. 

Post the results and I'll bet 67gtasanjose's afternoon chardonnay glass that the turn signal switch is bad.

[Mark69Sportsroof]

I will check tomorrow when I'm at the car.  It's be kept at one of my clients garage.  It barely fits in the garage. I have about 3" to the drywall. Thanks a ton Randy. Mark

[midlife]

No problem.  This thread should turn out to be a good tutorial about how to trouble-shoot electrical issues.