Topic: Brake hard line grommet question.

[MikeG69]

I finished replacing the hard brake lines out to the soft lines to the calipers & where the hard lines pass through the shock towers I can not get the repo rubber grommets into the hole in the shock tower. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Mike.

[7Lscjracer]

3M weather strip dressing spray is super slippery.
Got a 5/16" fuel hose onto a 3/8" sending unit nipple no problem using it.
Hose split a few years later, but the fault was typical repro junk, a 3/8 line for a 66 sending unit what was the manufacturer thinking?
That's a segue into your grommet issue, if it's made grossly oversize so as not to fit even with the 3M lube, you'll have to cut it off and replace with a parts store split grommet.
The question was rhetorical, we all know exactly what they were thinking, make a generic part that sort of fits everything, but exactly fits nothing.

[Bob Gaines]

3M weather strip dressing spray is super slippery.
Got a 5/16" fuel hose onto a 3/8" sending unit nipple no problem using it.
Hose split a few years later, but the fault was typical repro junk, a 3/8 line for a 66 sending unit what was the manufacturer thinking?
That's a segue into your grommet issue, if it's made grossly oversize so as not to fit even with the 3M lube, you'll have to cut it off and replace with a parts store split grommet.
The question was rhetorical, we all know exactly what they were thinking, make a generic part that sort of fits everything, but exactly fits nothing.

Actually Ford started that on the fuel senders . They made the 3/8 C8 1968 sender the replacement for the 65-67 5/16 one. The  repro companies in typical fashion copied the last replacement part as a pattern. They still should have done their homework however.

[7Lscjracer]

Nice tidbit of info Bob, akin to the problem I'm having sourcing a C5 battery hold down J bolt.
All I see are the longer D0 versions in NOS or aftermarket, even from AMK.
Years of searching, and I only have one rust free C5 version to show for it.

[J_Speegle]

Nice tidbit of info Bob, akin to the problem I'm having sourcing a C5 battery hold down J bolt.
All I see are the longer D0 versions in NOS or aftermarket, even from AMK.
Years of searching, and I only have one rust free C5 version to show for it.

At times you just have to make one. Remember to reshape the end after its cut and replate it to hide the fact that its been altered

As far as the grommet I work one end into the hole then push or pull it around (feeding the tail along as I go) with a small thin dental tool. If need be I use a little soap to help it slide but in most cases it goes without it

[Bob Gaines]

Nice tidbit of info Bob, akin to the problem I'm having sourcing a C5 battery hold down J bolt.
All I see are the longer D0 versions in NOS or aftermarket, even from AMK.
Years of searching, and I only have one rust free C5 version to show for it.

Ed Meyer made up some correct ones. Check with him. I got a couple pair from him and they are nice. It sure beats making them up myself.

[7Lscjracer]

Will do thanks, I have his contact info.
He fixed me up with a pre-delivery inspection sheet and headlight aimers bag some time ago.
It would be tough to replicate the dished in tip after cutting shorter.
Heat it cherry and peen it, then chase off with a nut that was on it beforehand perhaps?
I'd have to check my examples to be sure, but I think if you stand the C5 and D0 up side by side with the J shape on the bottom, the C5 threads are closer to the bottom than on the D0, thread and shoulder positions differ.
Sorry this thread got hijacked, I hope my slippery spray suggestion gets the grommet in.