Topic: Vapor Blasting

[J_Speegle]

Hi Jeff. FYI all of the parts in that photo are steel except for the oil filter housing which is aluminum, but that part was originally polished so it looks different. The thing I like about vapour blasting is that it does not leave the metal rough like traditional media blasting does.

Originally that oil filter adapter wasn't polished just fresh cast aluminum out of the mold with the threads and mating surfaces machined for to make sure they were true

[bullitt68]

Originally that oil filter adapter wasn't polished just fresh cast aluminum out of the mold with the threads and mating surfaces machined for to make sure they were true

That's what I thought. That is why I vapour blasted it. I was hoping that that might give it the best original looking finish. I believe that the power steering bracket should be the same finish.

[bullitt68]

Here are some parts that I have recently vapour blasted

[Bob Gaines]

It looks like it did a good job. I have never compared the price of doing it to other methods. Can you enlighten us on that cost aspect? You are probably already aware but for those reading the items appear mono tone to each other and additional steps will have to be taken to make the parts appear closer to each of their different authentic original new condition. 

[bullitt68]

It looks like it did a good job. I have never compared the price of doing it to other methods. Can you enlighten us on that cost aspect? You are probably already aware but for those reading the items appear mono tone to each other and additional steps will have to be taken to make the parts appear closer to each of their different authentic original new condition.

Hi Bob I know a guy who has the machine and I plan on buying one myself as well so I can give an accurate quote on cost. However I do know that there is only one place here in town that has a vapour blaster and I think it works out to about $100.00 and hour or so approx. FYI the same places changes $1.00 per minute for media blasting, do it is almost double the price. We also have a tumbler in the shop that I just started experimenting with. Here is a shot of the power steering valve that I first media blasted and the put through the tumbler for an hour. Some parts I will darken with various methods to achieve a darker hue. Some parts will be baked and some I will use gun blue on.

[Countrysquire]

My vapor blasting machine is here, but I'm waiting to get my garage addition finished before I put it in service, which I hope happens in the next two to three weeks.  I will post here once it's up and running and request a few of you to send something to experiment on, such as a damaged Boss 302 or 428 CJ valve cover.  I'll be doing this as a side business to support my own old Ford addiction, and plan on charging about $70 an hour for odd parts, and about $45 - $50 for a small block intake.  The look and feel of both aluminum and steel surfaces is really something and very superior to traditional media blasting.  The machine manufacturer blasted an original aluminum intake for my '35 Ford flathead as a test and it looks like it was cast at The Rouge last week.  I'll post some photos of various Mustang parts such as distributor and carburetor bodies as soon as I get it up and running.

Thanks,
Bobby
League City, TX

[bullitt68]

Looks good Bobby. We are going to buy a machine as well. Once you go vapour blasting you never go back and can’t settle for anything else. While I do like how it works on aluminum I am really impressed on how it works on cast iron and other metal parts. However it is very important to treat the parts with in seconds after you blast them to prevent flash rusting, the finish is unparalleled. Here is a cast iron bell housing I just did. However vapour blasting g is best for any part that is not getting painted including any parts to be phosphates. For parts to be painted I am still using traditional dry media blasting, but once the machine is up and running I don’t think the media blasting will see much use. Not sure about anyone also but our media blasted create dust and I have never got a handle on it. Perhaps it is because it is a lower budget model and it does not seal well. It also requires a lot of suction, more than I am providing. However withvapour blasting none of that is an issue. The only issue with the vapour blaster is that it is not cheap to buy. Giddy up!

[Bob Gaines]

My vapor blasting machine is here, but I'm waiting to get my garage addition finished before I put it in service, which I hope happens in the next two to three weeks.  I will post here once it's up and running and request a few of you to send something to experiment on, such as a damaged Boss 302 or 428 CJ valve cover.  I'll be doing this as a side business to support my own old Ford addiction, and plan on charging about $70 an hour for odd parts, and about $45 - $50 for a small block intake.  The look and feel of both aluminum and steel surfaces is really something and very superior to traditional media blasting.  The machine manufacturer blasted an original aluminum intake for my '35 Ford flathead as a test and it looks like it was cast at The Rouge last week.  I'll post some photos of various Mustang parts such as distributor and carburetor bodies as soon as I get it up and running.

Thanks,
Bobby
League City, TX

It looks good but a little too shiny for a aluminum V8 intake I have seen new back in the day as well as new in the box finish for a modern one you can buy today. That is not to say a additional step (would have to experiment) would not get a closer look. The best of luck with getting the addition done and the new side business. 

[bullitt68]

The perfect combination is the vapour blaster and the tumbler. The tumbler will take the sheen off and leave the natural looking finish with no marks like a wheel, sandpaper or steel wool for that matter

[Countrysquire]

Thanks Bob, it will definitely take a little experimenting to find what will provide a finish as close to 'as cast'.  My guess is that they blasted it at a pressure to give it the shiniest appearance possible.  I do have a new Edelbrock RPM FE intake sitting here to use as a reference, assuming that finish is the goal.  Here's a close-up of the original 1935 intake's bottom side that might give a little better idea of how it looks.  I'm really anxious to see what can be done with the smooth die-cast aluminum parts.

[Countrysquire]

Looks good Bobby. We are going to buy a machine as well. Once you go vapour blasting you never go back and can’t settle for anything else. While I do like how it works on aluminum I am really impressed on how it works on cast iron and other metal parts. However it is very important to treat the parts with in seconds after you blast them to prevent flash rusting, the finish is unparalleled. Here is a cast iron bell housing I just did. However vapour blasting g is best for any part that is not getting painted including any parts to be phosphates. For parts to be painted I am still using traditional dry media blasting, but once the machine is up and running I don’t think the media blasting will see much use. Not sure about anyone also but our media blasted create dust and I have never got a handle on it. Perhaps it is because it is a lower budget model and it does not seal well. It also requires a lot of suction, more than I am providing. However withvapour blasting none of that is an issue. The only issue with the vapour blaster is that it is not cheap to buy. Giddy up!

Agreed, the finish on steel and cast iron parts is not something that I've ever been able to achieve through bead blasting or with a wire wheel.  Anxious to see how parts and fasteners look that get phosphated or zinc and yellow 'cadmium' plated.

[J_Speegle]

The posts that originally followed the one above started to focus on Countrysquire's efforts and services so they were separated and moved to a new thread in the Services Offered in the main Market Place section of the site.

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=20354.0