Topic: Clutch return spring color

[kateem30]

Hi guys,
I am trying to figure out what color my clutch return spring should be. I would say black but I saw a couple of them in blue and one of my friend was positive about his original in blue... We both have 1966 Metuchen Export cars (Sept and Oct).

Thanks for your help!

Pierre

[Brian Conway]

This C2AZ-A service replacement is black.  Brian

[kateem30]

Thank you Brian!
Anyone with a blue sample??

[drummingrocks]

Thank you Brian!
Anyone with a blue sample??

I've seen blue ones, but I can't say for sure whether the ones I have seen came painted blue or were painted blue by a previous owner.

[Bob Gaines]

Thank you Brian!
Anyone with a blue sample??

I have light blue ones which were factory on 67-70 bigblock Mustang.

[kateem30]

Thanks!
Well, I can imagine a previous replacement in France where we had quite a lot of big blocks and not interested in keeping the originality of a car by the past!!

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks!
Well, I can imagine a previous replacement in France where we had quite a lot of big blocks and not interested in keeping the originality of a car by the past!!

They look basically the same . The difference is the number of coils. It would be hard to tell visually or even by feel IMO the difference .

[Bossbill]

It appears this thread is not only talking about 64 1/2-66, but 67-70.
Maybe it should be in the all years section?

Anyway, I have a few C2AZ-7534-A "Clutch Pedal Lever, Retracting" springs. The springs that attach to the pedal support via a bracket and to the clutch pedal itseld (as Brian pictured).

One is totally black and appears to have been dipped. I think this is a service replacement.

Another appears to be bare or a light phosphate. No other color present. I think this is the stock spring for my 67 SJ car.

The MCP states this spring is "8 15/16" long = 16 1/2 coils, #White"
Since I have little trust in the MPC as far as finish, is this spring a light phosphate color (I won't phosphate it due to embrittlement issues) and it has a strip, daub or something on the spring painted white?

[jwc66k]

(I won't phosphate it due to embrittlement issues)

The temperature of a functional phosphate solution cannot exceed 212F as it is just water with about 4 percent phosphoric acid. You got to go a lot higher, say 500F, to affect temper of a spring. Zinc plating (Cad may be included as well) does affect temper, which is why many zinc plated items are baked to release excessive hydrogen.
Jim

[Bossbill]

Jim -- I forgot the key word: hydrogen embrittlement.
It appears that any acidic process can introduce hydrogen into metals, especially hard metals (like springs).
https://www.finishing.com/34/80.shtml

I'm no expert here so perhaps I just play it safe by removing the light rust and using T9 on the spring. If I need color perhaps a little bit of gun bluing?

As far as overall color, daubs or stripes ...

[Bob Gaines]

Jim -- I forgot the key word: hydrogen embrittlement.
It appears that any acidic process can introduce hydrogen into metals, especially hard metals (like springs).
https://www.finishing.com/34/80.shtml

I'm no expert here so perhaps I just play it safe by removing the light rust and using T9 on the spring. If I need color perhaps a little bit of gun bluing?

As far as overall color, daubs or stripes ...

" just play it safe by removing the light rust and using T9 on the spring. If I need color perhaps a little bit of gun bluing" That's the ticket.

[Bossbill]

Thanks Bob.

Thought I'd share this trick when dealing with tightly wound springs...

Make a tool (bolt and pipe) and place it inside the spring. Wind down the nut and expand the springs so they are no longer coil bound.
Cleaning and finishing now gets between the springs and makes for a much better looking part.

Here is mine after gun bluing (no T9 yet):

[edit] The pipe and the bolt are notched to keep the spring in their 'seats'.

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks Bob.

Thought I'd share this trick when dealing with tightly wound springs...

Make a tool (bolt and pipe) and place it inside the spring. Wind down the nut and expand the springs so they are no longer coil bound.
Cleaning and finishing now gets between the springs and makes for a much better looking part.

Here is mine after gun bluing (no T9 yet):

[edit] The pipe and the bolt are notched to keep the spring in their 'seats'.

That 67 small block under dash clutch return spring is black for sure . It is the 67 big block under dash version that is painted white. I confused the underdash spring with the engine compartment springs. The blue color I mentioned in a earlier post had to do with the 67 BB upper and lower return springs/anti rattle springs in the engine compartment. 

[jwc66k]

Thought I'd share this trick when dealing with tightly wound springs...
Make a tool (bolt and pipe) and place it inside the spring. Wind down the nut and expand the springs so they are no longer coil bound.
Cleaning and finishing now gets between the springs and makes for a much better looking part.
[edit] The pipe and the bolt are notched to keep the spring in their 'seats'.

Here's a different type spreading fixture I made for hood springs for use in the bead blast cabinet. It's removed for phosphating.
Jim

[jwc66k]

I forgot the key word: hydrogen embrittlement.
It appears that any acidic process can introduce hydrogen into metals, especially hard metals (like springs).
https://www.finishing.com/34/80.shtml

My plater, Bob, told me not to be concerned as the materials we are working with have already been subjected to any process that might induce hydrogen and have had it baked out. Hood springs, latch springs, and seat springs come to mind. None that I've done have had a problem. For new steel or iron parts, it may be a concern. 
Based on several requests, Bob got into phosphating, but the demand dwindled to the point that he referred vehicle parts phosphating to me and stopped doing any commerical effort. He sold his phosphoric acid to me right after that. It's been awhile since I did a batch on referral. One of the Corvette guys I did some stuff for, started his own side "business".
Jim