Topic: Anyone use Scott Fuller exhaust reproductions?

[CharlesTurner]

If you plan to drive at all, I would have to recommend the aluminized pipes.

[Morsel]

If you plan to drive at all, I would have to recommend the aluminized pipes.

Haha, now you're making me question it again, I will drive it on very seldom occasions, short distances. Just curious what the reasons you're saying if I drive it all to get the aluminized, love to hear your thoughts. This is exactly why I'm asking peoples opinions who have experience with the Fuller pipes.

Thanks,

Jason

[J_Speegle]

Thanks Jeff, it was what I was leaning towards anyway, but just getting that last minute purchase nervousness because of the cost of these things, I know I'll be happy with them

Yes it is a big cost. I always hesitate and weigh options - often too much my disadvantage.

[67gtasanjose]

Haha, now you're making me question it again, I will drive it on very seldom occasions, short distances. Just curious what the reasons you're saying if I drive it all to get the aluminized, love to hear your thoughts. This is exactly why I'm asking peoples opinions who have experience with the Fuller pipes.

Thanks,

Jason

Here is the situation. Condensation builds inside of the pipes once heated, it pushes it out and beggs it to return once cooled off again. The wet to dry to wet to dry to wet to dry causes the rusting to begin from the inside-out. Easy to keep a classic out of the elements but you have to consider that one of th elements is the humidity in the air.

[J_Speegle]

Here is the situation. Condensation builds inside of the pipes once heated, it pushes it out and beggs it to return once cooled off again. The wet to dry to wet to dry to wet to dry causes the rusting to begin from the inside-out. Easy to keep a classic out of the elements but you have to consider that one of the elements is the humidity in the air.

Unless he's in one of the odd micro climates (example right next to or in the middle of the rice fields) the humidity is normally very low. Last week it was 7% in this area then shot up to 12%

[Bob Gaines]

Here is the situation. Condensation builds inside of the pipes once heated, it pushes it out and beggs it to return once cooled off again. The wet to dry to wet to dry to wet to dry causes the rusting to begin from the inside-out. Easy to keep a classic out of the elements but you have to consider that one of th elements is the humidity in the air.

Yes and the rusty water is forced out the small openings clamped off where the pipes meet. This will often stain the outside metal unless you do detail work after each drive. If you are going to drive the car you should consider the aluminize. It is different looking but not a "in your face difference" that the vast majority would be able to distinguish. Yes I would rather see the nice bare steel instead of the aluminize pipe but that is me. You have to understand that many of us are used to perceiving nuance differences that 99% of the car enthusiasts are not aware of. It is more important to do what is best for you and not what is best for us, if that makes sense. 

[CharlesTurner]

Haha, now you're making me question it again, I will drive it on very seldom occasions, short distances. Just curious what the reasons you're saying if I drive it all to get the aluminized, love to hear your thoughts. This is exactly why I'm asking peoples opinions who have experience with the Fuller pipes.

My main reason is as stated... condensation in the pipes

Remember that the resonators and mufflers are going to be aluminized, so it actually will look more consistent.

[Morsel]

My main reason is as stated... condensation in the pipes

Remember that the resonators and mufflers are going to be aluminized, so it actually will look more consistent.

Good point caspian65...

OK, then from a totally different perspective, it is repro anyway no matter what you do, correct... so just from a judging or price evaluation of the car, would you deduct for them being aluminized? When I show the car, it's obviously going to be in a driven concours class...

For the last year I was pretty much assuming I was going to get the bare steal ones, but now after hearing all this again, I'm reconsidering what's best for my application and longevity... and it's sounding like I should maybe just go with the aluminized 🤔

Jason

[J_Speegle]

Good point caspian65...

OK, then from a totally different perspective, it is repro anyway no matter what you do, correct... so just from a judging or price evaluation of the car, would you deduct for them being aluminized? When I show the car, it's obviously going to be in a driven concours class...

If your asking about MCA, currently, they allow aluminized in both trailered and concourse driven with no deductions

[Morsel]

If your asking about MCA, currently, they allow aluminized in both trailered and concourse driven with no deductions

Well that's good, not that I'll ever be in a MCA show since I live in Northern California, haha. Hope to some day get to bring my car to one of the MCA shows and get it judged and see how it compares and holds up...

Thanks everyone, starting to get a handle on this now and what I should probably do.

Jason

[OldMustangGuy]

I'm a little late to this conversation but I'll add my experience with Scott's exhaust systems. I recently installed a new exhaust on my 68-GT350 as part of the restoration. Similar to the experience relayed by Jeff earlier, I cut a corner and used a "concours correct" H-Pipe that I bought from NPD. It took almost an entire day to get the H-Pipe installed (the list of problems with it is almost too long to describe) and literally less than an hour to install the rest of the pieces as supplied by Scott. The precision and accuracy of his work is as good as it gets. If you value  your time at all or are paying someone to install the system you're way ahead to go with Scott's offerings.

[Morsel]

I'm a little late to this conversation but I'll add my experience with Scott's exhaust systems. I recently installed a new exhaust on my 68-GT350 as part of the restoration. Similar to the experience relayed by Jeff earlier, I cut a corner and used a "concours correct" H-Pipe that I bought from NPD. It took almost an entire day to get the H-Pipe installed (the list of problems with it is almost too long to describe) and literally less than an hour to install the rest of the pieces as supplied by Scott. The precision and accuracy of his work is as good as it gets. If you value  your time at all or are paying someone to install the system you're way ahead to go with Scott's offerings.

Yes, I've read the other horror stories from other people and since I wanted it to be correct and fit properly (especially because I'm putting it in myself) I'm definitely going with the entire system and all hangers and such. It will be expensive, but worth the money in the end. I have yet to hear one complaint from anyone who's gotten anything from Scott, so feel very confident that it'll be worth the money in the end...

Thanks,

Jason

[rocket289k]

The complete exhaust kits are typically manufactured by either Motive Industries or Precision Exhaust.  The intermediate pipes and mufflers are "ok" in terms of fit and finish.  However, both company's H-Pipes are awful.  They don't fit properly at all.  I posted about this issue in the past.  http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=6815.msg39607#msg39607

I had a terrible time finding a properly fitting H-Pipe for my "A" code.  I finally bought a H-pipe from Scott Fuller Reproductions (Scott and I discovered that the "A" code H-Pipe and the "J" code H-Pipe found on '68 Shelby are virtually identical (with only a couple of minor differences).  We both completely forgot that the "J" Code 302 in the '68 GT-350 uses the same "standard" log type exhaust manifolds that the "A" code 289 does.  In fact, those two exhaust manifold are pretty much the same other than having different engineering and part numbers. 

As a result, the only differences on the '68 GT-350 H-pipe vs. "A" code H-pipe are the placement of alignment tabs where the H-Pipe meets the intermediate pipes are in a slightly different spot on the pipe and the part number on the '68 GT-350 H-pipe is of course for a '68.  However, once the  H-Pipe is installed you can't even see the part number.  Other than that, the dimensions, bends, flats, etc. of those 2 H-Pipes are completely identical.

I have 2 H-Pipes from Motive and they both fit terribly.  One purchased in 2010 as part of an entire exhaust kit and one purchased separately in Jun 2013.  I also sourced a 3rd H-Pipe from Precision Exhaust.  The Precision Exhaust H-Pipe was identical to Motive part (the companies have a bit of history that ties them together and use the same designs).  Based on some digging / discussions with various suppliers it appears that Motive supplies the majority of the reproduction H-Pipes for sale today. 

The installation of the '68 GT-350 H-Pipe from Scott Fuller for my '65 "A" code was flawless. The only change I needed to make was to the "kit" intermediate pipes.  They were too long for the proper H-Pipe and needed to be trimmed. Bottom-line don't waste your money on the Motive or Precision Exhaust H-Pipes. They just don't fit. The Scott Fuller H-Pipe is outstanding. It's premium priced but it fits like NOS.

Regards,

Ron