Topic: Anyone use Scott Fuller exhaust reproductions?

[Morsel]

I was looking at his stuff because I'm thinking about redoing my dual GT HiPo exhaust system and from what I'm seeing it looks really good. What do you all think, anyone use his stuff, have any problems with them???

[J_Speegle]

Have used his system on a number of cars I own and have built. As well have judges plenty of them. Would not hesitate recommending the parts and systems for anyone doing a real restoration.  Have a driver or beater other systems might be a better choice for you - just don't say you restored the car   IMHO

I did try and cut a corner (already purchase a new H pipe for my Boss). Put the whole system on when I installed the rebuilt motor and the only pipe I'm still having issues with is the non-Fuller H pipe. Got to heat it up and beat it with a hammer to get it to clear the clutch arm    Oh well my choice.

Others will work but I've not had them go in and have no issues as I have the Fuller items. Just my experience 

[Paperback Writer]

I purchased the following items from Scott Fuller for the restoration of my '67 GTA Convertible back in 2013:

Part # EX-MU3         1967 2-inch Transverse Muffler (date coded August 1966)
Part # EX-MC5         1967-1973 Mustang 2-inch tailpipe band clamp (2 required)
Part # EX-MC6         1967/68/69 Mustang Tailpipe/Tip Horseshoe Clamp (2 required)
Part # EX-RB1          1967-69 Resonator/Intermediate Pipe Bracket-to-Hanger Bolts (4 required)

I even told Scott when I ordered the parts that unfortunately my budget wouldn't allow me to purchase a full 390 dual exhaust system from him (it would have been about $2,900), and that I would probably need to integrate his parts with those from NPD.  Scott was very understanding of my financial situation, and even offered tips on putting it all together - great guy!

As Jeff said, Scott sells really high-quality stuff, and it's definitely the way to go for a concours restoration.  However, if you're looking for something to use on a driver car (something that will be driven on wet roads), then there are less expensive alternatives...

I would have no hesitations about buying parts from Scott again, and I hope purchase the rest of the 390 dual exhaust kit from him someday soon!

[Morsel]

Thanks for the info. I do know there are cheaper ways to go out there, but I have been doing my car as correct as possible even to the point of using barely any reproduction parts, that's why I was struggling with this and how to handle the exhaust, mine are wrong and rusted to begin with anyway. The car is not a driver, but a very limited "drive downtown and to some car shows is about it. It will live in a bubble most of the time.

What did you get bare steel or aluminized? I would assume you're asking for trouble with bare steel, rust no matter what you do... just wondering which route I should go?

Thanks as always,

Jason

[J_Speegle]

What did you get bare steel or aluminized? I would assume you're asking for trouble with bare steel, rust no matter what you do... just wondering which route I should go?

I've always purchased or chosen the bare still (it comes coated with a protectant for shipping and storage) for my application. But or conditions are much different than allot of other areas

[tobkob]

I put a Scott Fuller exhaust system on my '69 GT350 and every piece fit perfectly without any adjustment. I would recommend and would purchase again.

TOB

[Bob Gaines]

I purchased the following items from Scott Fuller for the restoration of my '67 GTA Convertible back in 2013:

Part # EX-MU3         1967 2-inch Transverse Muffler (date coded August 1966)
Part # EX-MC5         1967-1973 Mustang 2-inch tailpipe band clamp (2 required)
Part # EX-MC6         1967/68/69 Mustang Tailpipe/Tip Horseshoe Clamp (2 required)
Part # EX-RB1          1967-69 Resonator/Intermediate Pipe Bracket-to-Hanger Bolts (4 required)

I even told Scott when I ordered the parts that unfortunately my budget wouldn't allow me to purchase a full 390 dual exhaust system from him (it would have been about $2,900), and that I would probably need to integrate his parts with those from NPD.  Scott was very understanding of my financial situation, and even offered tips on putting it all together - great guy!

As Jeff said, Scott sells really high-quality stuff, and it's definitely the way to go for a concours restoration.  However, if you're looking for something to use on a driver car (something that will be driven on wet roads), then there are less expensive alternatives...

I would have no hesitations about buying parts from Scott again, and I hope purchase the rest of the 390 dual exhaust kit from him someday soon!

FYI aluminized pipe is standard on Scott's systems it is the bare steel that you have to pay extra for. Aluminized pipe doesn't typically rust when exposed to rain. You probably have to pay extra to get aluminized on the bargain exhaust or muffler shops.  Just thought I would mention it because I was not sure if your comment was meant to imply the Fuller system would rust or to imply with a car exposed to the rain that you would want a lower price system.

[Kiwi428]

Bought all but the "H" pipe from  Scott fuller Reproductions for my 69 428 CJ. Everything fitted great except the passengers side pipe before the resonator is too close to my driveshaft, so have to look at some minor mods to clear. I know this side is closer but its too close for my liking, about 1/16"

So my recommendation is you buy the complete system front to back and I'm sure it will fit perfectly. Trying to cut corners only gives you a headache later, IMHO.

[Bob Gaines]

Bought all but the "H" pipe from  Scott fuller Reproductions for my 69 428 CJ. Everything fitted great except the passengers side pipe before the resonator is too close to my driveshaft, so have to look at some minor mods to clear. I know this side is closer but its too close for my liking, about 1/16"

So my recommendation is you buy the complete system front to back and I'm sure it will fit perfectly. Trying to cut corners only gives you a headache later, IMHO.

+1 . It would fit if all SF pipes were used. Scotts systems are made on a jig using factory patterns . They are kept to tight tolerances. They are meant to fit with other factory pipes or other Scott Fuller made pipes. Non SF after market pipes are notorious for not very precise tolerances.  If you go mixing some other non SF aftermarket pipe into the mix then expect fit problems because of that.

[67gtasanjose]

Every FITment issue anyone usually has is because of mismatching exhaust parts. This is true with EVERY car on the road and parts vastly differ between aftermarket product lines. WHATEVER you buy for WHATEVER car you are working on, I would recommend ALWAYS buying the parts from the same vendor, using at the very least, the same manufacturer. (should availability be an issue) For the most part, manufacturers build a complete system WITHOUT considering whatever the factory did and certainly not considering whatever another manufacturer might build. Many "factory" systems are welded (been doing this for decades). Most often, when you ask for say "just a muffler", them asking you to buy the adjoining pipes isn't THEM trying to up-sell the product, usually it is because it will help you to avoid having  FITment issues.

As I have said in other threads, being the owning a muffler shop you bump into every possible scenario imaginable with  FITment issues. If you think having a pipe-bender handy makes life easier...Not really...but it shows you how much 1-degree of bend and one degree of rotation matters! Basic rule of pipe bending is you cannot "un-bend" a pipe.

[1967 eight barrel]

I used Fuller clamps and supports on my Shelby. The exhaust tip clamps were absolutely perfect and when tightened down laid absolutely flat with the rear hanger/insulator. I highly recommend their product and the service is well above par.

                                                                                                             -Keith

[specialed]

I was involved with scott from the start of making exhaust systems (& other much needed concours correct parts) & loaned him parts & the main reason his exhaust systems fit so well is they were made using  ASSEMBLY line only examples & his muffler dates came from low mile cars we researched (not guessed at) & the AMK clamps were also made from my assembly line examples & scotts exhaust hangers were made from assembly line parts so if you use ALL his exhaust parts you will have a complete concours correct perfect fitting system. Plus it helps knowing these parts were made by a rocket scientists !!

[Morsel]

OK, getting ready to pull the trigger on a full Scott Fuller exhaust system, front to back with all the clamps ect... I'm still wondering if I should go with the bare steel or aluminized. The car will be driven on occasion very short distances so a coating on bare steel to keep it from rusting probably ain't going to fly. I'm struggling and want it to look correct, but the bare steel scares me that after three or four years they're going to rust. The car will never be driven in the rain or on wet roads and does live in a bubble, so maybe I'm fine.

Do the aluminized ones look the same, I would think not and it would probably be obvious...

Anyway, I do live in Northern California, should I not worry and just go with the bare steel?

...and yes, I know there's an up-charge for it.

help me decide 

Thanks,

Jason

[J_Speegle]

OK, getting ready to pull the trigger on a full Scott Fuller exhaust system, front to back with all the clamps ect... I'm still wondering if I should go with the bare steel or aluminized. The car will be driven on occasion very short distances so a coating on bare steel to keep it from rusting probably ain't going to fly. I'm struggling and want it to look correct, but the bare steel scares me that after three or four years they're going to rust. The car will never be driven in the rain or on wet roads and does live in a bubble, so maybe I'm fine.

Do the aluminized ones look the same, I would think not and it would probably be obvious..

No they look different


Anyway, I do live in Northern California, should I not worry and just go with the bare steel?
[/quote]

Given your location (doesn't sound like you life near or in one of those untypical micro climates)  I would go with the non-aluminized. I have on the last two

Don't have either handy or I would snap a picture of what they look like 5-10 years after installation

[Morsel]

No they look different


Anyway, I do live in Northern California, should I not worry and just go with the bare steel?


Given your location (doesn't sound like you life near or in one of those untypical micro climates)  I would go with the non-aluminized. I have on the last two

Don't have either handy or I would snap a picture of what they look like 5-10 years after installation

Thanks Jeff, it was what I was leaning towards anyway, but just getting that last minute purchase nervousness because of the cost of these things, I know I'll be happy with them