Topic: Correct Starter Relay 1967 San Jose?

[Ralf]

Hi, looking for a most correct starter relay:

https://www.npdlink.com/store/?p=catalog&mode=newsearch&search_str=starter+relais&parent=1&year=1967

NPD:
a)
STARTER SOLENOID STARTER RELAY CONCOURS    
11450-2A
b)
STARTER SOLENOID STARTER RELAY CONCOURS
11450-2B

Thx for feedback.
Ralf

[midlife]

Stay away from concours correct starter relays.  They come from AMK, if I remember correctly, and have a history of failing very quickly.  They are great for true show cars that don't get driven or started.  Try and find a nice used one if you can.

[J_Speegle]

Only one of the possibilities that might have been original to your car is shown. And then three versions of the same. Each have details not IMHO consistent with original examples AMK's is a little more correct but as mentioned better leave a battery cable loose at the battery end so you can grab it while its hot when and if the starter/relay sticks on

[Ralf]

Only one of the possibilities that might have been original to your car is shown.

Jeff.....and which one?

Tried to start my car yesterday (after 2 weeks unused). Figured out that the battery was almost empty. Turned key back to 12 o'clock position, but starter continued starting motor....
Used than battery disconector to stop it. What is the problem (beside battery) ?
Thx
Ralf

[67gtasanjose]

Stay away from concours correct starter relays.  They come from AMK, if I remember correctly, and have a history of failing very quickly.  They are great for true show cars that don't get driven or started.  Try and find a nice used one if you can.

...as mentioned better leave a battery cable loose at the battery end so you can grab it while its hot when and if the starter/relay sticks on

I will not disagree with the above comments but will add another thought.
I've seen reproduction solenoids stick many times over the years and occasionally seen OEM Autolite stick too. EVERY TIME I saw one stick was under HIGH AMPERAGE situations. Big Blocks require MUCH MORE AMPERAGE to crank over the engine. LOW BATTERY (slow Cranking) also increases amperage draw through the solenoid. EXTENDED CRANKING on a "No Start" condition heats up the solenoids and can weld the contacts together on low quality solenoids.

As stated, I'm not recommending you to buy one (or NOT to buy one). The one AMK version with the C7 number and red daub on the top is closest in detail to what should have been on your example. Knowing this happens to these items, I would agree mostly with what Randy stated earlier and consider such a part as for "judged show purposes only" and not for use on Daily Drivers.

[jwc66k]

Jeff.....and which one?

Tried to start my car yesterday (after 2 weeks unused). Figured out that the battery was almost empty. Turned key back to 12 o'clock position, but starter continued starting motor....
Used than battery disconector to stop it. What is the problem (beside battery) ?
Thx
Ralf

Stuck Bendix, stuck solenoid.
A battery disconnect is a good "investment" for any car. It's easily removable for shows, keeps the clock from draining the battery and when thing electrical go wrong -
Jim

[J_Speegle]

Jeff.....and which one?

Tried to start my car yesterday (after 2 weeks unused). Figured out that the battery was almost empty. Turned key back to 12 o'clock position, but starter continued starting motor....
Used than battery disconector to stop it. What is the problem (beside battery) ?

The "piston" (for lack of a better term) Seems to get stuck or attached in the closed/energized position. Not sure if its an issue inside with lubrication of the piston, too large of a clearance between the bore and the piston or the material the piston is being made out of. Guess it could even be the strength of the return spring

Never noticed if it took place with a low or high charge when I've had issues. Didn't care at the moment - too busy trying to get the battery disconnected.

[specialed]

never had a problem with amk starter relays yet but have seen many cars over the years not properly grounded & just looked at 67 Shelby & no ground strap at all!

[tobkob]

I don't know if AMK and Marti produce their own relays or have the same vender but I bought one from Marti in 2013 and it failed almost immediately. The starter wouldn't stop until you disconnected the battery cable and then later the engine wouldn't stop until you pulled the ignition wire off the relay. I have read where the ground issue affects this but it seems strange that the original relay as well as a new NAPA relay both work fine. ( neither has ever failed) Meanwhile the concours relay looks great sitting in it's box until I have the car judged again. I always lift the positive cable when I park the car. Although mine is a '69 I suspect these are the same relays.

[Bob Gaines]

Also when tightening the positive and the starter wire ,you have to be careful that you don't twist the post when tightening. You have to have a wrench on the inner side also. If the post is twisted then the internal contact points are mis aligned and only a smaller portion make contact with each other. This minimal contact causes heat to build up and sometimes they weld /stick together causing the run on symptom.

[jwc66k]

Also when tightening the positive and the starter wire ,you have to be careful that you don't twist the post when tightening. You have to have a wrench on the inner side also.

My Craftsman 1/2 inch combination wrench was to thick to fit the inner nut so I "sacrificed" an el Cheapo 1/2 inch wrench and ground it down thinner to fit the nut. 
Jim

[KevinK]

Also when tightening the positive and the starter wire ,you have to be careful that you don't twist the post when tightening. You have to have a wrench on the inner side also. If the post is twisted then the internal contact points are mis aligned and only a smaller portion make contact with each other. This minimal contact causes heat to build up and sometimes they weld /stick together causing the run on symptom.

It's been a number of years since I experience the problem and likely an after market part, disassembly showed a twisted bolt welded to the plate. I was young and just tighten the cramp out of things. I suspect Bobs comment to be the cause many times. Maybe Ford figured out a gorilla proof way back in the day.  Add in some e tea current draw and you are asking for relay problems.

[Ralf]

Hello,
Not to open another thread.

What is the correct number of the starter itself for my car (289, C4, Auto, Nov. 66, SJ)?

Here I understood most probably ink stamped not casted number.

I'm looking for an OEM, because seems mine has gone....(btw. I'm looking for a correct alternator as well)

Thank you.
Ralf

[J_Speegle]

Hello,
Not to open another thread.

What is the correct number of the starter itself for my car (289, C4, Auto, Nov. 66, SJ)?

Not sure that it will help you in a search. The ink stamp would very likely not still be legible on the starter after all these years and it would not match the part number if you were looking through parts books or looking for one in NOS form.   Best to look for the visual characteristics that would match your application, have it rebuilt them restore the outward look would be the route I would take