Topic: Paint type used for paint daubs and general marking

[preaction]

Is there a paint type that is used generally for color and Resistance to fading and flaking that comes in small amounts for use as daubs and color marks for restorations ?

[CharlesTurner]

No, most just use rattle cans, acrylic enamel.  Spray into a cup, use a paint brush to apply.

[J_Speegle]

Been covered a few times - most recent in a rearend marking discussion in the 67-8 section

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I use few colors right out of the containers but instead mix them together to get a match to the original color. Also depends since your only doing a single car where I might do a dozen or more over a period of time.


An earlier related thread

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=6144.msg35109#msg35109

Basic colors such as black, bright/strong red, orange, tan or white can be something like Testor's  but if you get into marking drivelines or some spindles then a couple or more bottles will be needed.

Krylon school bus yellow is pretty good for some of the bright yellows and a Meadowlark Blue that can be used for some of the light blue marks, Testor's makes a lavender that is a decent match for the lavender used in many markings. There are some that are just OK IMHO so I take a base that is close and add to it. The more the better (I will normally go through it at some point) and you don't want to run out half way through because another mix will likely be off no matter how much you try.

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From a Shelby paint mark discussion

Your not often going to match something right out of the bottle or jar and it depends on what you have to mark. Some colors or parts will take allot more than other and if you try and match you want to mix allot more than you'll need for the job - since if you run short you'll never get a really good match the second time. Don't this for 25 years and made that mistake too many times

For your (single car) usage The yellow will be used in a number of areas so would suggest not getting the really small jars like Testors instead get a pint of Rustoleum.. They make a strong yellow that can be used in a number of areas (tie rods, center link, pittman and idler as well as the front springs)

For the tan you might just be able to get by with one brown (they even make a tan but its not always easy to find) and one white Testor model enamel and mix both together in another jar to get something that looks like a light tan or matches what you found. If you have a nice example.

IMHO going to be a better purchase than using the Corvette colors over at Quanta

Buy some cheap brushes at Harbor Freight - 1/2 and acid brushes. Apply the paint to the coil springs without loading the brushes up fully and keep the brush flat (don't follow the coil around) so that it produces a noticeable brush (jagged)  end in the direction of travel .

[CharlesTurner]

The only thing about Testor's paint is that most are oil based and can take a long time to dry.  Because of that, it probably would hold up the longest, but also could be a bit of aggravation if you need to work around the parts before they dry!  :-)

[preaction]

Thanks Charles and Jeff, I do see what you mean pints for some and testors for others. I used something That I cant remember what it was now but it faded and showed rust through badly after just eight years of indoor storage.

[Building 3]

In addition to what has been mentioned, I have used nail polish for very small marks and the Sherwin-Williams color palate for larger ones. Thousands of shades of colors are available in both mediums.

[jwc66k]

- but it faded and showed rust through badly after just eight years of indoor storage.

The paint dab was intended to be used on the assembly line and not a permanent means of identification. Ford used cheap paint, no "sky blue pink" here, just basic colors. It was applied quickly and subject to the effects of gravity, aka runs. No "quality" control, just "ID" control. You are looking for a permanent marking and to get that you need a dry, rust free, oil free and grease free surface first and foremost. Paint will stick to that, it won't flake and it may have a long term resistance to rust - if your car is in a low humidity storage area.
Jim

[J_Speegle]

In addition to what has been mentioned, I have used nail polish for very small marks and the Sherwin-Williams color palate for larger ones. Thousands of shades of colors are available in both mediums.

Though that Sherwin made water based paints. Not something I would suggest for paint marks

Would think that the paint would be thick and not hold up very well. Plus getting small amounts of the paint (few here will use even pints of paint for doing markings might also be a negative

[Building 3]

SW makes oil based paint as does Behr and Bengamin Moore to name a few.  Also Alyd Enamel.  Not sure about the availability in all 50 states or Canada. Will mix pints which still might be too much for most jobs.

[jwc66k]

Home Depot sells a custom color match sample paint in a 7.5oz container. It's Behr Premium Plus and only available in flat colors. I assume it's water based, the label doesn't say. It does say it contains ethylene glycol. Most Home Depots will match your sample with their equipment. It's cheap, it works and it will do several cars.
Jim

[J_Speegle]

Home Depot sells a custom color match sample paint in a 7.5oz container. It's Behr Premium Plus and only available in flat colors. I assume it's water based, the label doesn't say. It does say it contains ethylene glycol. Most Home Depots will match your sample with their equipment. It's cheap, it works and it will do several cars.
Jim

Have used their sample sizes for around the house - the paint (for this use) is a no go based on the thickness of the paint, type of paint and the flat finish