Topic: Ball Joints 67, Upper and Lower Arm Rebuilding

[Anghelrestorations]

Just coming back to this and I wanted to look at a few more known assembly line boots before replying.  The ones here are from Charles Turner project he is working on (C4 boots).  The other is an original control arm dipped in evaporust with C7 boots.  So after seeing this, I feel the green was on some of the originals.  I do think that green does wear off over time so maybe thats why we dont see them on all.
 

20191018_122617 by Marcus Anghel, on Flickr

20191103_125526 by Marcus Anghel, on Flickr

20191103_125545 by Marcus Anghel, on Flickr 

[Bossbill]

I wonder if the green "paint" was actually a sealant between the rubber and the metal ring? I seem to recall it's in the inside too.

[carlite65]

i too thought it could be a mold release agent of some sort.

[bullitt68]

My question is if I am restoring my 67 Upper and lower Arms, what is the best source of a quality replacement ball joint or ball joint boot without buying NOS Ball Joints at over $250 each or just a NOS boot for $200 a pair?

Not going for THOROUGHBRED ever but trying to get really close to Concours as practical. ( I just watched these parts go crazy on eBay, NO WAY I'll go that route on this project)

Glad you asked that question. Turns out 67 & 68 A-Arms are different but some great info in your post that helps my build

[bullitt68]

Re RIVETS: Thanks for the input to this point. I see that especially for the waffle pattern I need for my build information ON THE UPPERS, it may be best done by somebody who already has the tooling. As I get the arms ready for the riveting, I'll make that final decision when ready. (Still holding out for a source of riveting tool recommendations)

Looking into my UPPER CONTROL ARM SHAFTS, one side had some play in it, other side I had rebuilt just before parking the car 20 years ago and was tight. It looks like I should consider new upper shaft kits. WHERE is the best source of a reproduction shaft kit?, again, looking towards Concours Driven but I want these to look correct.

Just curious where people are buying the bushings and ball joints. Obviously some buy NOS if they are lucky enough to find them, but where else can we find suitable replacements for restoration. I am looking for a complete set for upper and lower A-Arms 1968. I have seem some on various websites, but want to check and see what guys are using here before I purchase something I may end up not using. (Yes I have done that before and wished I had asked the stupid questions first)

[67gtasanjose]

It has been a few years now since I searched for these items but I ended up using MOOG upper ball joints with NOS boots. Upper shaft and bushing kits, I believe I bought at NPD. Be sure the outer shaft caps have the O-ring style seals. I could not find an exact same item for this detail and also, mine being Early-67, the studs that hold the shafts to the shock tower, fit loosely in the new shafts. That detail is likely another one of those supplier/running changes for the 67 model year and may not be an issue for your 68 Mustang.

[ruppstang]

Just curious where people are buying the bushings and ball joints. Obviously some buy NOS if they are lucky enough to find them, but where else can we find suitable replacements for restoration. I am looking for a complete set for upper and lower A-Arms 1968. I have seem some on various websites, but want to check and see what guys are using here before I purchase something I may end up not using. (Yes I have done that before and wished I had asked the stupid questions first)

I used a set of UCAs from rareparts.com on a project a couple of years ago. They were the most accurate reproductions I have found.

[J_Speegle]

I used a set of UCAs from rareparts.com on a project a couple of years ago. They were the most accurate reproductions I have found.

Used them on a couple of restorations I did a few years back. No comments of findings from judges and the like. I suggest that you check and request that they be sent in bare steel (no other coatings other than oil) since over the years that have often coated them with multiple finishes since allot of the people they supply are not concours focused.

They are about 10  minutes from home so have worked with them over the years to get things closer - little by little. Of course "we" (concours like owners and shops) are not their main focus

[Hipo giddyup]

No connection to this auction but seems reasonable for a concours resto...  Not C7OZ but C7AZ??

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-C7AZ-3A105-B-NOS-SHELBY-MUSTANG-UPPER-BALL-JOINT-DUST-CAPS/383271822025?hash=item593cc7e2c9:g:4WwAAOSw9qFd0d70

[67gtasanjose]

No connection to this auction but seems reasonable for a concours resto...  Not C7OZ but C7AZ??

C7AZ-B boots have a metal ring similar to the ones for a tie rod end, to press it on and seal. Mustangs and other models that use the C7OZ-B boots, have the metal plate secured with the ball joint rivets.
I would not think simply removing the "extra rings" would make them usable on a Mustang application...but maybe some restorers have tried and know more on that detail.

[Bossbill]

Even though I haven't done the control arms yet (I was searching for reasonably priced FoMoCo's) I thought I'd fit what I believe is an original length upper BJ stud into my 67 spindle. This was to check how far the threaded portion sticks out and if I have the right sized castle nut.

There is data that says some of the Moog BJs have a short amount of thread sticking out and need a much thinner castle nut for the cotter pin to fit through the hole. I think this is the right nut.

[Bob Gaines]

Even though I haven't done the control arms yet (I was searching for reasonably priced FoMoCo's) I thought I'd fit what I believe is an original length upper BJ stud into my 67 spindle. This was to check how far the threaded portion sticks out and if I have the right sized castle nut.

There is data that says some of the Moog BJs have a short amount of thread sticking out and need a much thinner castle nut for the cotter pin to fit through the hole. I think this is the right nut.

You are correct on some of the after market ball joints. That looks like the assemblyline size nut. the one needed for some of the after market ball joints are shorter.

[Bossbill]

Well, that's a two-fer, Bob.

I get to validate my castle nut size and others get to see a pic and dimension.

[bullitt68]

It has been a few years now since I searched for these items but I ended up using MOOG upper ball joints with NOS boots. Upper shaft and bushing kits, I believe I bought at NPD. Be sure the outer shaft caps have the O-ring style seals. I could not find an exact same item for this detail and also, mine being Early-67, the studs that hold the shafts to the shock tower, fit loosely in the new shafts. That detail is likely another one of those supplier/running changes for the 67 model year and may not be an issue for your 68 Mustang.

Thanks Richard I am searching for control arms. I was hoping to find some nice originals. I have 3 pairs right now and none of them are up to snuff. I have a perfectly mint pair of 69 style upper control arms, a set that is pitted and another set that has the ends ground down for tire clearance. I may use the bottom A Arms that came on my car as they are pretty good. I think they are moog, but I welded on some jacking tabs and they look pretty good. They are also mint. I guess my hunt for control arms will determine if I need to get ball joints

[bullitt68]

I used a set of UCAs from rareparts.com on a project a couple of years ago. They were the most accurate reproductions I have found.

Thanks. I cant find the upper control arms on their website. They have bottom ones and tie-rods etc. I was told that Rare Parts are not making anymore 68 Mustang parts and are just selling out the inventory. Not sure if that applies to other models or not.