Topic: Horn Problem

[CharlesTurner]

Horn attaching bolts were phosphate/oil.

There are some variations in the later horns.  Going from memory, but know that at least some '68 had date codes stamped into the metal.

Also some variations in the ink date stamps, but that is probably worthy of another thread.

[Pete Bush]

Thanks, Charles. I did some searching of the archives here, and there's been some interesting discussions on phosphate finishes.

I see where Midway Products sells a cold phosphate product: KG K-Phos 4000. Seems like an easy, economical way to handle the small bolts, and get an introduction to the coating process. Have you had any experience with the product?

[CharlesTurner]

I haven't tried the cold phosphate solution.  If you do, let us know how it goes.

[macdude67]

Hey Pete how are the horns? If your still having problems this might help. You mentioned using a meter and reading current at the jack? What you were reading was voltage. You can have a full 12.5 plus volts at that jack and have good horns and still have an issue.

[Pete Bush]

Macdude,

I check voltage at the jack (12v), and continuity through the horns (none). Is there another test I should have performed?

[macdude67]

someone mentioned it but i didn't see a repost on it, can you make the horns work by connecting them directly to a battery by placing the horn bracket on the negative post and connecting the positive post to the horn terminal with a jumper wire?

[CharlesTurner]

Yes, they can be tested like that.  Just be careful!