Topic: RUST 911 Rust Dissolver

[67gtasanjose]

A while back while discussing Evapo-Rust, also spelled Evaporust (for searching), another member brought up this product called Rust911 or Rust 911 and had expressed very good results so I thought I would give it a try.
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?action=post;quote=87676;topic=13976.15

The larger advantage of this product is that it is shipped concentrated so a single gallon will yield you 16 gallons of usable product. A good majority of our projects need more than one or two gallons to get an item submerged so this seemed to be a practical option given the product only costs about $60 with shipping.

Now the project I had in mind when discussing the Evapo-Rust (in that other thread) is a hood that had a rather serious buildup of rust inside of the structure, in areas that were not accessible to deal with. This rust felt like 80 grit sandpaper feels instead of smooth metal, when feeling the inside of the hood structure, not to mention other areas where you could see build-up of rust like looking throungh the latch opening of my 67's hood. My goal was to prep the inside of the hood so I could use another product to try and seal off the rust so it would not continue to grow. I was thinking of using POR15 and simply rolling it around the edges of the hood using gravity to get it into the seams however reading the instructions for POR15, they indicated that the metal needed to be clean. (I ussumed this means rust-free also)

I removed all of the surface rust from the hood that I plan to use in all of the areas that you could access with sanders and other paint stripping products rust gels etc...Many hours went into this  but I was still at a loss at what to use that was affordable to strip the rust from the inside of the hood. This RUST911 was the answer to that problem. Below are several pictures and hopefully there can be more discussion about good steps to use as a follow-up to what I have accomplished so far. I am by no means an auto-body expert so as a do-it-yourselfer I am open for discussions to prevent future rust development on such parts.

Now 16 gallons was a bit less than needed to fully submerge my hood but I was able to get all areas covered by tilting my homemade tub. My tub consists of a plywood bottom, plywood & 2x4 sides screwed together and 6 MIL plastic sheathing. Underneath my hood and the plastic sheathing is another 67 Mustng hood skin to try and maximized the coverage with the 16 gallons. Probably another 4 gallons would have been better but this is good enough.  Another overnight dip for the leading edge of the hood that was missed in last nights soaking and I'll be ready to pull it out of the bath and clean it up.

Anyone with ideas on how I can nuetralize this stuff? Something that may not flash-rust while cleaning this off?

[67gtasanjose]

As for "How good does this stuff work?", you can see the black cloud developing in as little as 30 minutes and within 18 hours, very rusty parts were smooth as silk. Cannot beat that!

The product looks like water when poured. To mix per instructions of 8 oz. product to 1 gallon of water, I used a 16 oz. water bottle and two, one-gallon jugs and simply poured the two at a time, together as to mix it while pouring...I have to say, I wondered about how well it might work but the 1/2 hour later "cloud" showed the results...a little shaking of my bathtub and occasional stirring just to get fresh juice against the rusty areas it was easy to see it wasn't going to take too long.

[preaction]

Thanks for posting.

[67gtasanjose]

If you think the inside of your hood has no rust on it here is the inside of a hood that I cut open that wasn't showing any visible rust on the outside-top or majority of the bottom side of the hood. Now this particular Hood had a few body shop repairs to it so I considered it as scrap value...so I didn't sacrifice a "good hood" for the sake of demonstrating purposes or just simply to obtain the "skin" that I used as means of building my bathtub but as you can see there is heavy rust on the inside of the structure while the underside of the structure that was painted looks perfectly fine in these two pictures.

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks for posting your experience. I am looking forward to using the rust 911 I bought but haven't used. If you are looking for ideas on how to neutralize the product I would contact the people who sell the product. It may not need to be neutralized. They claimed to be engineers. Keep us posted.

[WT8095]

Their website states it is PH neutral. The MSDS sheet for the concentrate indicates PH 6-7 (7 being neutral). Worst case, 6 is only very slightly acidic, about as much as milk. Once it's diluted in water, it's going to be very close to neutral.

[67gtasanjose]

Their website states it is PH neutral. The MSDS sheet for the concentrate indicates PH 6-7 (7 being neutral). Worst case, 6 is only very slightly acidic, about as much as milk. Once it's diluted in water, it's going to be very close to neutral.

OK, I am comfortable with the idea this product is essentially "neutral" but now I need to do a thorough pressure-washing to flush out debris and rust remnants. There are very few holes to work through so once I get as much as I can out, I imagine I will once again dip this back through a clean water bath.

NOW I am pretty sure this will bring on the FLASH RUST so does anyone have any idead of a solution to use to prevent this? TRISODIUM PHOSPHATE was suggested as an idea in another thread but when I hear the word SODIUM I hear SALT which to me spells RUST. That thread was titled "Water and Glass Media Blasting" where discussion included mention of an additive for helping against flash rust but the "Secret Additive" was never revealed. http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=9916.msg58697#msg58697

I did find this link for Dustless Media Blasting with discussion on the "Secret Additive":
http://www.dustlessblasting.com/rust-inhibitor.html

[jwc66k]

Rich,
I use TSP in the vibrator with the green pyramids cleaning steel hardware and get no "flash rust". Have you thought of using a garden sprayer with the long nozzle to get access to interior nooks and crannies?
Jim

[67gtasanjose]

Willing to consider anything I can get locally since I plan to pull it out of the bath in the am

[BKnapp]

I am not sure what "solution" would be used, but the video Dave Z posted regarding a ford is born, referred to a type of plating that was used with electrodes. It would be interesting if anyone has an idea of what may have been used.

[J_Speegle]

I am not sure what "solution" would be used, but the video Dave Z posted regarding a ford is born, referred to a type of plating that was used with electrodes. It would be interesting if anyone has an idea of what may have been used.

Allot of plating process use electricity to transfer the "plating" or material from the sacrificial anodes to the intended surfaces. Is this what you asking about?

[Smokey 15]

 Thanks for posting the info.   I will have to order some.

[BKnapp]

Allot of plating process use electricity to transfer the "plating" or material from the sacrificial anodes to the intended surfaces. Is this what you asking about?

Not quite, the video in the General Assembely Line Disucussion - A Car is born ( ) showed the entire body being submerged in a solution prior to painting (about the 11 min mark).

[J_Speegle]

Not quite, the video in the General Assembely Line Disucussion - A Car is born ( ) showed the entire body being submerged in a solution prior to painting (about the 11 min mark).

Think I recall that section. Ford didn't do that to all bodies just the more expensive cars like that they did with the T birds and the dunking they did in primer. Cheaper cars like ours got the quick - no extra frills processes   

Might be able to look in the Lincoln and T Bird lit to see what they did with those bodies and that step to see if it yields any clues

[67gtasanjose]

OK, I pulled the hood from the bath this morning and did a pressure wash thinking I would re-bathe the hood to deal with any FLASH rust after doing an inspection as best I can. Over the weekend, since I was unable to get the whole hood submerged all at once, I had dipped the hood in THREE segments, RH rear corner first, LH rear next and the whole nose of the hood last. The NOSE end stayed submerged for about 48 hours. The results varied on thoroughness of cleaning as the product wore out some each time. By the time I got to the nose, the product was already BLACK as could be (see last image in previous reply NOTE: manufacturer says "BLACK" indicates the product is weakened or spent )

I have to say, it still did a VERY, very good job but there is still some areas of minor (now treated) rust on hood upper surface that I can find when I look inside with a scope. Most areas previously coated are completely smooth and virtually ALL of the areas that went under during the first dipp are perfect.

The remaining areas that are less than perfect are NO WHERE NEAR as bad as before but obviously, the product broke down some (wore out some) from previous dipping of the rear sections. Now, THIS isn't saying I think this product is BAD, I am sure, had I let it sit longer, it possibly would have eventually finished the work and more importantly, I really don't know how bad this area of the hood was compared to the areas that came out good were (seems the whole inner structure was fairly rusty) You really cannot see up in there very well at all and there is basically about 35 square feet of bare sheet metal to deal with so I still give it a "THUMBS UP" (NOTE: There was NO VISIBLE RUST to speak of externally on the regular painted surfaces, I am only dealing with the inside, bare metal, hidden surfaces of this one hood)