Topic: A/T C4 tranny fluid quantity

[Josep]

Hi, how many liters (?) do the C4 auto transmmission needs to be filled ..?
Around 4L..? Some 4 quarts..?

Thanks,

Jose

[jwc66k]

Josep,
The book says 7 3/4 quarts for a 200 inch I-6 Mustang C-4. That would be about 8.2 liters. There is a minor problem, sometime all the fluid is not drained, especially from the torque converter. I leave the service on my AT's to a shop.
Jim

[Josep]

Thanks Jim,

The thing is that today when taking the car out for a ride I noticed a stream of trans fluid flushing, the a close inspect showed that the hose attached to the steel line coming from the rad was disconnected, and that was the problem. I know it has to be all one steel line, but at some point of the car's life, it's has been cut and now it has a part of rubber hose, just at the end, when it connects to trans. I don't believe I have flushed the almos 8L you mention, maybe only the half or a bit more, so will have to add slowly and check several times.

Thanks Jim,

Josep

[jwc66k]

That's the result of a normal (sloppy) engine, transmission or radiator being removed. Ford used a rubber transition hose at the radiator in 1965 for both lines for Mustangs but went to a solid pair in 1966.
Jim

[CharlesTurner]

Josep, consider purchasing a Ford Shop Manual.  It will answer a lot of questions like this and more...

[67gtasanjose]

Going by description of the hose failure, somebody might at a moment like this, also service the transmission too (pull pan & replace filter, drain torque converter and possibly replace the shifter selector shaft seals)

Then you would have an idea just how much fluid needed. Otherwise, if not interested in servicing the transmission at this time, AND it isn't moving at all in "Drive" or "Reverse", while idling in PARK, add about two liters and recheck after a drive to reverse attempt again, keep adding a liter at a time till it shows on the tip of the stick. Be careful to not get a mis-reading of the stick. Sometimes good to wait a few minutes after adding fluid to get accurate reading.

[Josep]

That's the result of a normal (sloppy) engine, transmission or radiator being removed. Ford used a rubber transition hose at the radiator in 1965 for both lines for Mustangs but went to a solid pair in 1966.
Jim

I've seen that these rubber hoses are for oil pressured Transmmission use, so maybe an old owner just put them when restoring the car, but choose the wrong type.!

Charles, I already have the Shop Manual, but sometimes it's difficult for me to find what I need to know.
I've searched for fluid type and quantity, but I haven't found them. A lot of info there and sure not looking in the correct pages.

Richard, no, I'm not servicing the full Transmmission now, just repairing the issue. I have reconnected the hose and added some fluid, say 4-5 quarts, and now is working fine.! Just need to hold tigh another clamp that's shows a couple of drops on the floor. Think with that (untill I get a full steel line set) I'm done by now.

Thanks all for your advices and support,

Josep

[jwc66k]

High pressure hose fitting have either "barbs" or a raised "nub" that is used to retain the clamp and the hose. I've had engines with 80 to 120 PSI oil lines that used mostly barbs and clamps. A smooth tube with a hose and clamp is recipe for disaster.
Jim

[67gtasanjose]

...A smooth tube with a hose and clamp is recipe for disaster.
Jim

+1, even a "temporary fix" should at very least include using a Double Flaring Tool, adding a single "barb" onto the smooth tubing sections, then making the connection with the correct transmission cooler type rubber hose & clamps. These sort of repairs, though not at all Concours, will hold up well over time so long as you are not near the heat of exhaust system...which is a REALLY dangerous situation if a lousy (quick) repair bursts onto the hot exhaust system.

I sure hope you can find a way to get the full tubes onto it like factory...will save you much grief in the end. I know your location is a problem but a bigger problem is a burned up transmission or a burned up car (fire).

[Josep]

+1, even a "temporary fix" should at very least include using a Double Flaring Tool, adding a single "barb" onto the smooth tubing sections, then making the connection with the correct transmission cooler type rubber hose & clamps. These sort of repairs, though not at all Concours, will hold up well over time so long as you are not near the heat of exhaust system...which is a REALLY dangerous situation if a lousy (quick) repair bursts onto the hot exhaust system.

I sure hope you can find a way to get the full tubes onto it like factory...will save you much grief in the end. I know your location is a problem but a bigger problem is a burned up transmission or a burned up car (fire).

Thanks guys. I'm in the process of ordering a new steel line to replace the actual. By now I will fix it as I can, doing these raised "nub", and when I get the new line I will replace the system. Hope to have it here in some 2-3 weeks, then will need help to raise the car to do the job. Expect in about a month it can be done and fully restored.

Josep

[mjd 65]

I've seen that these rubber hoses are for oil pressured Transmmission use, so maybe an old owner just put them when restoring the car, but choose the wrong type.!

Charles, I already have the Shop Manual, but sometimes it's difficult for me to find what I need to know.
I've searched for fluid type and quantity, but I haven't found them. A lot of info there and sure not looking in the correct pages.

Another good resource for finding the correct specifications is the original owner's manual