Topic: Correct engine build date

[drock]

What is the typical time span between engine block casting date and actual vehicle build date.  I have a 67 Mustang GTA. 7F02S...... My Marti report says actual build date of Jan 20. The date code on block above oil filter area has the first digit somewhat illegible, followed by A 11. Would 7 A 11 be too late for original motor, or would 6 A 11 be too early to be original to car?  Thank you, Dan

[preaction]

I have a Dearborn built 390 GT, engine block date is April 10 and car build date is April 28.

[sportyworty]

9 days is pretty close. I had a Talladega that was 6 so it is possible. Try to find the assembly date stamp on one of the 4 corner lugs on the block. Most common is drivers side front then passenger front. Typical and common to see assembly date stamps 7-14 days AFTER the cast date on FE's at that time. If you have a stamp that is within these 9 days you may have a winner.
Kerry

[drock]

Thank you. I will check and let you know.

[drock]

Is this assembly date stamp? Pass side front. I believe it is 3A18 B. [/img]

[drock]

Some other info on motor. Carb is C70F 9510-B List 3794  672.
Intake Large S C6AE 9425-G 6F27

[sportyworty]

Some other info on motor. Carb is C70F 9510-B List 3794  672.
Intake Large S C6AE 9425-G 6F27

 Dan you have a block cast 3A11 January 11th 1973. The engine was assembled 7 days later January 18th.
There is unfortunately no correlation to the actual build date of your car January 20 1967.


Your intake is possibly correct though relatively early. It is at the very least a good date match to the carb dated July 2nd week 1967. Too early on these parts in almost all cases for a late Jan 67 built car.

Perhaps pull a valve cover and see what the head dates are as well as the distributor.

I think the sweet spot for a block and heads for your car would be in the mid to late Nov through Dec range of 1966. There are documented exceptions though

[drock]

Well, thank you for the information.

[drock]

C6AFU on outside of heads. 6F28 under valve cover.
Distributor C7AF  12127  6615

[sportyworty]

Good job on getting all the dates together. I do this on all my cars and write them down for future reference.

All of the dates with exception of the block line up and are a likely original set.
The heads tell the story though. You have the top end off of a late built July 1966 Fairlane/Comet.

[drock]

Again, thanks for that. Now I have to decide how to proceed. I want to restore the car and remain stock. Will probably not be built to be judged, but I want it to be a respectful build. This car was quite rusty and I have replaced a lot of sheet metal so far with more to go. How important to value of car to go with correct dated motor would be one question. How much of a sin would it be to just keep this motor?

[sportyworty]

If you want to present a respectable factory restoration to suit your particular car perhaps you will want to end up with a good date matched engine. Maybe consider something along these lines. Do not invest any money in this engine. If it runs well detail it up and use it while you build a replacement for eventual install. Just have fun and research your way to a ride you will be proud of. If you want a date correct assembly I can help you. The fact you are here says you have interest in preserving so crazy wrong dates may cause you to lose sleep. I would lol
Does not mean you have to address it right away is the point. My posts while helpful was not likely the news you had hoped for.

[sportyworty]

Sorry I did not answer your direct question.
The more correct the restoration the bigger the hit imho.
An average driver would be likely more forgiven.
2500-10K on a car valued under 50K would be a reasonable assumption based on condition.
A block dated closer to the car or to even compliment the top end would be a huge help alone. That is your stand out looking at everything presented.

[drock]

Yes, it does bother me that it is not right. And I have lost some sleep over this car, but I find that sometimes I have a clearer picture of problems and solutions in the middle of the night, lol..
I think I will do as you suggest and start looking for the correctly dated parts. I have already had a lot of fun researching and repairing this car and I enjoy learning from this forum and at Vintage Mustang Forum. I am really impressed with the generosity and patience of the members. Your advice will be greatly appreciated!

[Mike_B_SVT]

Another thing to consider is a "resto-mod" / modern engine.  Factory stock exterior and interior appearance, with a modern engine under the hood. 
At your current status you don't have to worry that you are "messing up" an all-original / numbers matching car.  You now have a "free pass" to do as you please under the hood with a clear conscience :-)

Resto-mod cars do have thier own following, and can bring good prices, so there is still value there.  Also, many of the "aging crowd" want to relive thier youth... but without the classic engine maintenance.

Good luck, and keep us posted!