Author Topic: door gap  (Read 5554 times)

Offline opcfan

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door gap
« on: May 06, 2016, 01:29:21 AM »
I am working on a 1970 Mustang conv. the r/h door has an ugly 1/2" gap at the top of the door. see photo I have the r/h inner rocker out of the car at this time and am ready to weld up. I am hesitating because of this door gap. Any ideas?


Offline 7Lscjracer

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Re: door gap
« Reply #1 on: May 06, 2016, 10:14:54 PM »
First thing you have to make sure of is that the door hinges are in perfect shape.
No worn bushings or pins, otherwise the door can't be properly adjusted to match the quarter panel.
Keep the glass rolled down and adjust the window afterward if need be.
Probably have to move the fender back too, might need shims added or removed to bring the side out or in to match the door.
Don't expect a 3/16" uniform panel gap like on a new car, and you won't be disappointed.
Detroit's offerings at this time were assembled with haphazard care.
Hopefully your cars not suffering from convertible sag, that's a whole other big issue.
69 Mach 1 San Jose Nov. 68 build
Bought May '81, sold Sept '20

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: door gap
« Reply #2 on: May 06, 2016, 10:57:45 PM »
Might want to consider finding someone with a frame machine and have the body measure for sag, twisting, and whatever might have taken place over the years. Will provide you with a more solid starting spot and maybe you'll discover something

Remember these cars are not like a truck, larger car or earlier car with a real frame. Just a bunch of folded and formed sheetmetal spotwelded together.
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline opcfan

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Re: door gap
« Reply #3 on: May 07, 2016, 12:47:32 AM »
Thanks for the replies. I have the sitting level on the sub frame and the subframe is square. I am not sure what convertible sag is but it is usually due to rust. This is not a rust issue nor do I believe it is a frame issue.

1967 eight barrel

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Re: door gap
« Reply #4 on: May 07, 2016, 05:07:32 AM »
Convertibles are noted for these issues, especially rusted vehicles put on lifts. As assessment was the best advice given.

Offline ruppstang

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Re: door gap
« Reply #5 on: May 07, 2016, 09:16:07 AM »
Thanks for the replies. I have the sitting level on the sub frame and the subframe is square. I am not sure what convertible sag is but it is usually due to rust. This is not a rust issue nor do I believe it is a frame issue.
Why is the RH inner rocker out of the car?

Offline opcfan

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Re: door gap
« Reply #6 on: May 07, 2016, 12:32:29 PM »
The r/h rocker had rust so I am replacing the r/h inner rocker, front torque box and floor pan.

Offline 7Lscjracer

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Re: door gap
« Reply #7 on: May 07, 2016, 12:49:31 PM »
That's some significant repair work so you have to make sure all the new metal goes in to spec, then panel gaps won't be an issue.
Before you cut anything else, when the doors are off, adjustable door bars must be installed to pull the pillars together to the correct measurement.
Here's a diagram to check your car against.
69 Mach 1 San Jose Nov. 68 build
Bought May '81, sold Sept '20

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: door gap
« Reply #8 on: May 07, 2016, 05:40:11 PM »
.......... nor do I believe it is a frame issue.

Your allot more confident that I would be given the same situation. Sure with all your experience you'll have it figured out and fixed in no time
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline opcfan

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Re: door gap
« Reply #9 on: May 08, 2016, 03:20:54 AM »
That's some significant repair work so you have to make sure all the new metal goes in to spec, then panel gaps won't be an issue.
Before you cut anything else, when the doors are off, adjustable door bars must be installed to pull the pillars together to the correct measurement.
Here's a diagram to check your car against.

I will surely check some the measurements with a laser level to ensure everything is as I think it is. Thanks for the help.

Offline Smokey 15

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Re: door gap
« Reply #10 on: May 08, 2016, 11:16:27 AM »
 I'd find what the correct door opening measurements are for your car and check both sides. Then, as suggested, add door bars to set and retain those specs while doing repairs. Sag does not always mean rust related. Convertibles are not as ridged as hardtops and, through years of use, they tend to sag.  Sure seemed to work on my old body!

Offline 69cobrajetrugae2

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Re: door gap
« Reply #11 on: May 09, 2016, 09:29:09 AM »
I recently completed a hinge replacement on a 69 drivers door. What a friggen horror show! Myself and two friends did the final alignment, it took 4 hours on two separate days for 8 hours total! Don't bother measuring, what are you going to do with the numbers?  As suggested by the guys, check for frame issues to the extent of a break or major fault.  I would take pictures of all the gaps, doors, hood, deck lid, on flat pavement after you bounce the car to settle it. Then take floor jacks and start lifting it in various combinations. taking the same pictures after each lift and take pictures of the jack locations. Next study the pictures to see if one jack location has a greater effect on gap alignment than the others. This may zero you in on a weak spot, or it may not.

The common problem with aligning doors on a 69/70 is the interior rubber door parts and steel strip will prevent you from getting the door aligned.  Remove all of it. I had to hammer the pinch weld a bit near the door light switch to get enough clearance. Take off the fender of course and replace the pins in both hinges, they sell a kit. I bought a shim kit at harbor freight and trimmed off the tabs and used them to get my alignment by shimming the hinges on the door. A 1/32 shim at the hinge area moves the door 1 inch or so 4 feet away at the latch, it's nuts. When the door is flush at the 4 points, 2 at the rocker and 2 at front and rear upper door, mock up the fender and check to make sure it is on the same plane as the door. Good luck, I pity you because it is going to be a real PITA!  When you get frustrated walk away and come back fresh.  You will learn a lot when you are done, and if you don't do it right the car will forever look like a hack job no matter how mice the paint and body work turn out.

Offline cobrajetchris

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Re: door gap
« Reply #12 on: May 09, 2016, 10:26:04 PM »
I can try to help you but the picture you uploaded doesn't give me a clear idea of what is going on. Is the gap tapered and wide at the top and tight at the bottom? First off the place to start is the rocker panel to door gap and then the door to quarter gap as they are stationary and cant be adjusted like the fender. With the rocker and inner rocker removed it makes it more difficult to establish a baseline. What was the door gap  before you started? does the other side look the same?. Normally if the unibody is sagging due to rust the gap would be tight at the top and the bottom would be wide and sticking out and not flush. If the car was hit in the rear at one time and not repaired correctly it could cause the gap to open up as  well. Is the quarter panel original or has it been replaced?
CHRIS KNOBBE
69 MUSTANG COUPE, DEARBORN BUILT 06/10/69 OWNED SINCE 1978
70 BOSS 302 MUSTANG, DEARBORN BUILT 10/24/69 OWNED SINCE 1987
69 R CODE MACH1 AUTO, DEARBORN BUILT 10/10/68 OWNED SINCE 2006
69 R CODE MACH1 4 SPEED (factory black) SAN JOSE BUILT 12/30/68 OWNED SINCE 2007

Offline opcfan

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Re: door gap
« Reply #13 on: May 09, 2016, 11:44:48 PM »
I can try to help you but the picture you uploaded doesn't give me a clear idea of what is going on. Is the gap tapered and wide at the top and tight at the bottom? First off the place to start is the rocker panel to door gap and then the door to quarter gap as they are stationary and cant be adjusted like the fender. With the rocker and inner rocker removed it makes it more difficult to establish a baseline. What was the door gap  before you started? does the other side look the same?. Normally if the unibody is sagging due to rust the gap would be tight at the top and the bottom would be wide and sticking out and not flush. If the car was hit in the rear at one time and not repaired correctly it could cause the gap to open up as  well. Is the quarter panel original or has it been replaced?

You hit the nail on the head as the car has had a hard tap on rear and both rear quarters have been replaced. The gap was not good when I started but not quite as bad as it is now.

Offline JohnRB

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Re: door gap
« Reply #14 on: May 10, 2016, 04:50:59 PM »
Also check if the outer doorpanel has been changed. If done wrong you would have bad gaps. Guess how I know ::)