Bill,
I'll give it a try.
- Both Zinc & Magnesium Phosphate processes are actually followed by oil, WD40, Boeshield, or similar
The Ford spec for -S2, the most common of the phosphated items, say zinc first, manganese is acceptable if it meets the requirement; and then covered in oil. I assume motor oil (not peanut), but I used WD-40 after smelling up the neighborhood with used 20 weight at 300F. Boeshield is a more recent commodity and is more expensive and not as available as WD-40. Both work for me.
- The term "P&O" seems be used solely for the Magnesium Phosphate
It's a general abbreviation for Phosphate and Oil.
- Both finishes use similar procedures, just a different phosphating solution
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Yup. Clean it, boil it, dry it, oil it, use it. (A simplified sequence.)
- I assume, through further research, I will be able to determine the "correct" finish (zinc or magnesium) when posts refer to "phosphate" without specifying
Again, no difference as to what Ford required.
Again, I am learning the ropes, acquiring knowledge, and learning through trial and error...hopefully without explosions. I finally got my vibratory tumbler, blasting cabinet (still trying to learn about the various media), zinc plating kit, strainers, etc....still have stuff to acquire.
I found a lot (two words) of my small items at Goodwill, all stainless. The blackening solution I use is from Eastwood. The glass beads I prefer is from TP Tools in Ohio
www.tptools.com Look up "Scat Magic" for some strong glass. You're not doing vanes on a jet engine, so got rough.
I've used magnesium phosphate, but to be truthful, I don't know what I'm using now, as long as it works. Don't mix them, that's never a good idea. Most of the time, 1 or 2 ounces per gallon is what you use. What ever brand or flavor you use and like, continue. If availability become an issue, you have an option.
Jim
Jim
