Topic: 67 Select-Aire Vacuum Hoses, Routing, Markings & Connections

[67gtasanjose]

Here is a picture of a unrestored early 67 heater control valve.
Marty   

I have found a few NOS Fairlane Heater Valves, slightly different impressions on the diaphragms. Obvious bracket difference that can be switched.

Have these been any sort of "accepted" replacement for majority of classes except Thoroughbred?

[J_Speegle]

I have found a few NOS Fairlane Heater Valves, slightly different impressions on the diaphragms. Obvious bracket difference that can be switched.

Have these been any sort of "accepted" replacement for majority of classes except Thoroughbred?

Depends on the judge and if they notice the differences. If they do, an owner or builder should expect some deduction so that you (the judge) can reward another owner that was able to find/or has a visually correct valve. But it looks like it is a much better choice than other choices and you should not receive a large deduction - one appropriate in a weighted deduction judging system

[67gtasanjose]

This is the best I could come up with in the end,,,
I might keep my eyes peeled for an original but seriously what's the odds of one of those being any good.

[67gtasanjose]

Inline Tube sells 5/32" striped vacuum line by the foot.  Several colors and looks to be good quality.  They advertise as being for GM application.
I'm not sure of the size used on the Mustangs but this looks close.   You can buy it on EBay.  Search striped vacuum hose.

As mentioned earlier, it is a shame that such "striped" hoses are not reproduced. I imagine every Ford product with factory air conditioning in the 60's would benefit from these hoses being reproduced in a more authentic version than what is presently available.

The hoses Inline Tube is selling have "Ribs" (for G.M. applications) while the ones I have found on my '67 do not. They also do not sell "Purple" ones that I can find online.

Save your money on any attempt at using the GM style hoses with stripes. These are not only a "Swing & a miss", but actually more along the lines of a "Shut-out"! WAY to thick of rubber and as mentioned earlier, original colored striping not all available.

[Bob Gaines]

This is the best I could come up with in the end,,,
I might keep my eyes peeled for an original but seriously what's the odds of one of those being any good.

Pretty good odds IMO. I see them all of the time. Many originals are still usable you have to first test to see if it holds vacuum (suck on nipple ) and then see if the valve inside is movable when vacuum is applied. You typically have to restore the appearance for show. To replate it takes a little thinking outside the box. The brass base has to be protected so it doesn't take the zinc dichromate plating of the diaphragm . Of course you unscrew the firewall bracket from the brass base and replate the bracket separate . Replace a new O ring between the base and the bracket when it comes time to assemble it. You need to neutralize any remaining plating solution that may have found it's way on ether side of the internal diaphragm and then it wouldn't hurt to lubricate . I put a cap on the diaphragm nipple and you could rig up a temporary plastic cover for the bottom of the base in place of the metal bracket .     

[preaction]

Can anyone identify what color vacuum  hoses were used with this option, the hoses in the engine compartment. One manual I have seen calls out one green and white stripe and one black. I have never seen them on a car.

[67gtasanjose]

There has been other discussion about these hoses in other threads. To my knowledge, nobody at this time reroduces similar hoses.

You might give WCCC a call since Cougars also use this option. I believe they have somebody who was making headlight vacuum hoses with correct markings and was considering making hoses for the Tilt Wheel cars too. One of the problems it seems is that there were early and late versions and to my understanding, since the hoses are basically cut to fit to help keep costs down, nobody has a sort of chart with what length of what color for what month of production. Also, a VERY limited target audience for such a huge investment of inventory.

There, that should be as accurate of my current understanding

[preaction]

There is a guy in Canada with a shop called Critter Creek cougar restorations and he has a kit for sale with both hoses having a green and a white stripe on both hoses, I have not ever seen a hose for this application but both hoses having the same color marking doesn't seem right. WCCC considers these not in their inventory and rarely found. Its shocking at first when you see the price which is in Canadian dollars.

[ruppstang]

The original hoses had a green and white stripe. As I remember the assembly manual call for 71 inches and 58 inches for 68. Jack Brooks of Dead Nuts On has reproduced them and has them in stock for around $45.00. His kit give you about 8 inches extra. Both hoses are striped the same. I'll attach a picture of a section of original hose and a picture of the reproduction on our 68 High Country Special.

[bastille_stango]

NPD seems to sell a pretty good reproduction tilt hose ("exact repro concours correct" they say)
https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/hose_vacuum_tilt_away_steering_column-199391-1.html

[67gtasanjose]

Something to point out or remember from the other thread, varying locations of the vacuum canister or canisters can affect what is correct for different 1967 Applications. Probably at least 3 running changes seem to have occurred in 67, then add varying options like Select-Aire (or without), Cruise (or without) and you might see that there is no "One hose kit fits all" out there but knowing now oe of the hoses (green and white stripe) is available is great. If you have the canister under the battery, that takes two hoses going to it (as I recall) yet some very early versions may still have only a single canister and check valve by the hood hinge.

[preaction]

Richard, where do you have the check valve for you car ? Also your car looks like the grand canyon compared to a car with a 390, thermactor, and a/c wow.

[67gtasanjose]

Richard, where do you have the check valve for you car ? Also your car looks like the grand canyon compared to a car with a 390, thermactor, and a/c wow.

I have the oblong canister under the passenger hood hinge. The check valve was inline, near the heater control valve at the cowl.  When I got my 67 in 1978, this was all disconnected and only the AC system was connected. Back then, I repaired the problems with the Tilt system but had no books on what was correct. That being said to qualify that my example may not be 100% accurate to use as an example to copy. One thing for sure though, it NEVER had a reservoir under the battery, ONLY the one back near the hinge. (battery tray has no holes and date code confirms the battery tray as original.)

[preaction]

Thanks for the heads up, Im working with a battery tray vacuum canister which does not have a check built in. Mabye I will be  putting it under the dash that would give it a very little bit more vacuum volume-until I learn otherwise thanks.

[ruppstang]

Thanks for the heads up, Im working with a battery tray vacuum canister which does not have a check built in. Mabye I will be  putting it under the dash that would give it a very little bit more vacuum volume-until I learn otherwise thanks.

What are you putting under the dash? The check valve? It should go where Richard said near the heater control valve. I believe if you have the under the battery tray set up you should have the built in check valve in the can. Here is a picture of a car built near the time that your was. The last picture is for Richard.